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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Despos

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You have thoroughly researched the topic of how well-fitting pants should fit and therefore have high expectations. Now when you want to check if this type of trousers suits you, you have to find a tailor at a sufficiently high level - RTW will most definitely fail here (or maybe you're lucky and you will fit into the off-the-rack pattern of some brand).

If I may suggest a maker other than D&S, from personal experience I recommend Collaro. Not to be groundless, bellow is my first pair of trousers (done completely remotely) made by them, preceded by a test pair:

View attachment 1542555 View attachment 1542554 View attachment 1542556

There are still some issues to be fixed (like for example my lower left hip, it's a little exaggerated in these photos I believe) but the result is very good IMO (sorry for the mismatched t-shirt and shoes).
Your pictures will help promote this maker and get them a few new clients. When I see the difference in your hips I do a 50/50 adjustment. Raise the right side and lower the left equally rather than make the adjustment on one hip only. The right outseam has a slight pull and adding 3/8” to the right hip will fix it. Would not lower the left side more than it is now.
 

GaiusM

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@GaiusM

This does have a boxy look from the front. The shape of the front edges contributes to the boxy effect. I wouldn’t want a tweed jacket with a chiseled hour glass waist though.
The pull on the button is more often a balance issue than tightness. The more the fronts open or fall away when unbuttoned the greater the pull at the button. The chest from the armhole upwards (not the drape below the armhole)is small and causing the bowing of the lapel.
Right side view looks like short front balance and the left side view shows the front hiking up and forward in a more dramatic way than the right side. May be the photo.
Don’t know what the bagginess over the triceps means. The folds of cloth? That is a pitch issue.
If the sleeves are too narrow it can cause excess wrinkles but these look fine so the wrinkles are in the nature of the cloth and not effected by the tailoring or the fit.
The back doesn’t have any definition, just a lot of drape.
Did you work with a store or a tailor that you can go back to or was this an online purchase?**
Thank you for the breakdown.
I did go with a tailor at a brick and mortar shop. Not sure what exactly can or should be altered though. What would you recommend I bring up to them?
 

CorozoButton

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I would appreciate any advice/help on how to refine this MTM pattern.

What I (probably incorrectly) think this needs:
1.) A bit more fabric over shoulder blades to stop the pulling at the top of the back (this is an option)
2.) Pants - Seat +3.2cm, Waist +1cm, Thigh +1.2cm, Knee +0.5cm, Extra 1cm in back of pants over the calf, Back Rise -1cm
3.) Sleeve Pitch, I think maybe right +0.2cm, Left +0.8cm, but I really don't know about this.
4.) Possible tighten the collar slightly - It's been graded to the shoulder measurements, which are wider than your average proportioned person. Is it possible that this is causing curve at the top of the inside of the lapel, and a tighter collar may pull that in a little? Maybe I would need to then add a bit of shoulder width to compensate?
5.) Chest? See below

MTM provider is saying not to add any more to the front chest here. It doesn't feel tight, but I think there's a slight concave shape to the inside of the lapel, which I was led to believe was a symptom of not enough front chest? The jacket already has a lapel dart - although a second could be added instead of adding to the chest measurement. The lapels lay flat against my chest. I'd love some input on this.


The bumps in the shoulder are my shoulder bones, and this is an unpadded jacket. This is a conscious choice to avoid any padding, even know I understand some may consider it wrong.

They're also saying that the left sleeve needs to be rotated back, but I was under the impression it would need to go forward? I could be wrong, or it's possible they mis-typed when emailing.

Is it possible that the seam across the left shoulder is finishing too far back, which is contributing to the sleeve issues?

Finally, what causes the pulling/lines on left side of the pants by the pleat? Not enough seat?

Any advice received thankfully. Obviously always good to hear from @Despos if possible.

One day I will be in Chicago and there will be a nice bottle of something with me!
 

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moimael

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Hi!

I received this Ring Jacket suit a few weeks ago, still waiting for shops to reopen so I can get it tailored. I wanted to have your opinions on the fit.

The things I think I should have altered:

- Excess of fabric in the back near the armholes
- Slightly too much waist suppression (which might be because of lockdown weight I put on)
- Trousers too long of course
- Maybe something to do on the seat of the trousers. Might also just be that I didn't pull it up properly and it's too long so it doesn't drape correctly?
- Slightly short jacket but I can live with that
- A tiny bit tight at the chest (not that I feel it but it seems that the lapels bow slightly), same I can live with that since I think there is nothing that can be done here.
 

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Shirtmaven

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I would appreciate any advice/help on how to refine this MTM pattern.

What I (probably incorrectly) think this needs:
1.) A bit more fabric over shoulder blades to stop the pulling at the top of the back (this is an option)
2.) Pants - Seat +3.2cm, Waist +1cm, Thigh +1.2cm, Knee +0.5cm, Extra 1cm in back of pants over the calf, Back Rise -1cm
3.) Sleeve Pitch, I think maybe right +0.2cm, Left +0.8cm, but I really don't know about this.
4.) Possible tighten the collar slightly - It's been graded to the shoulder measurements, which are wider than your average proportioned person.
5.) Chest? See below

MTM provider is saying not to add any more to the front chest here. It doesn't feel tight, but I think there's a slight concave shape to the inside of the lapel, which I was led to believe was a symptom of not enough front chest? The jacket already has a lapel dart - although a second could be added instead of adding to the chest measurement. The lapels lay flat against my chest. I'd love some input on this.


The bumps in the shoulder are my shoulder bones, and this is an unpadded jacket. This is a conscious choice to avoid any padding, even know I understand some may consider it wrong.

They're also saying that the left sleeve needs to be rotated back, but I was under the impression it would need to go forward? I could be wrong, or it's possible they mis-typed when emailing.

Is it possible that the seam across the left shoulder is finishing too far back, which is contributing to the sleeve issues?

Finally, what causes the pulling/lines on left side of the pants by the pleat? Not enough seat?

Any advice received thankfully. Obviously always good to hear from @Despos if possible.

One day I will be in Chicago and there will be a nice bottle of something with me!
i am not going to comment on alterations.
Just that in some photos you have sway posture which cause the break in the sleeve.
in other photos you have normal posture,,,I will tell you that your shirt is too tight in the chest.
 

CorozoButton

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i am not going to comment on alterations.
Just that in some photos you have sway posture which cause the break in the sleeve.
in other photos you have normal posture,,,I will tell you that your shirt is too tight in the chest.
Thank you. That's confusing because as far as I was aware, I was standing naturally for all the photos. Oh dear!

You're right about the shirt. Wasn't always the case, but unfortunately shrunk.
 

Shirtmaven

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Thank you. That's confusing because as far as I was aware, I was standing naturally for all the photos. Oh dear!

You're right about the shirt. Wasn't always the case, but unfortunately shrunk.
compare #2451 and #2484 sway posture throws everything off. and causes sleeves to break.
 

Alocin

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Hi!

I received this Ring Jacket suit a few weeks ago, still waiting for shops to reopen so I can get it tailored. I wanted to have your opinions on the fit.

The things I think I should have altered:

- Excess of fabric in the back near the armholes
- Slightly too much waist suppression (which might be because of lockdown weight I put on)
- Trousers too long of course
- Slightly short but I can live with that
- A tiny bit tight at the chest (not that I feel it but it seems that the lapels bow slightly), same I can live with that since I think there is nothing that can be done here.

I also can’t really comment on alterations but do you know if this is a US model or a JP model?
 

moimael

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I also can’t really comment on alterations but do you know if this is a US model or a JP model?
I bought it through Brogue shop California. The jacket is a TAJ-02F model, Japanese I think?
 

Despos

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I would appreciate any advice/help on how to refine this MTM pattern.

What I (probably incorrectly) think this needs:
1.) A bit more fabric over shoulder blades to stop the pulling at the top of the back (this is an option)
2.) Pants - Seat +3.2cm, Waist +1cm, Thigh +1.2cm, Knee +0.5cm, Extra 1cm in back of pants over the calf, Back Rise -1cm
3.) Sleeve Pitch, I think maybe right +0.2cm, Left +0.8cm, but I really don't know about this.
4.) Possible tighten the collar slightly - It's been graded to the shoulder measurements, which are wider than your average proportioned person. Is it possible that this is causing curve at the top of the inside of the lapel, and a tighter collar may pull that in a little? Maybe I would need to then add a bit of shoulder width to compensate?
5.) Chest? See below

MTM provider is saying not to add any more to the front chest here. It doesn't feel tight, but I think there's a slight concave shape to the inside of the lapel, which I was led to believe was a symptom of not enough front chest? The jacket already has a lapel dart - although a second could be added instead of adding to the chest measurement. The lapels lay flat against my chest. I'd love some input on this.


The bumps in the shoulder are my shoulder bones, and this is an unpadded jacket. This is a conscious choice to avoid any padding, even know I understand some may consider it wrong.

They're also saying that the left sleeve needs to be rotated back, but I was under the impression it would need to go forward? I could be wrong, or it's possible they mis-typed when emailing.

Is it possible that the seam across the left shoulder is finishing too far back, which is contributing to the sleeve issues?

Finally, what causes the pulling/lines on left side of the pants by the pleat? Not enough seat?

Any advice received thankfully. Obviously always good to hear from @Despos if possible.

One day I will be in Chicago and there will be a nice bottle of something with me!
Hard to see the issues you mention from these pictures. When the chest is cut too narrow/small. The small chest is the problem and bowing is the symptom. If these lapels are bowing, which I can’t see, it can be caused by other issues. Probably not enough shape in the canvass.
Can’t see any detail on the trouser.
The sleeve is set too far forward and needs to be rotated back. Move your arm forward to see the wrinkles on back of the sleeve disappear. The fix is turning the sleeve back to match your arm position.
You would still have the bumps on the shoulder with shoulder pads in the jacket. People misunderstand the purpose/ effect of shoulder pads. The canvass needs more structure and you need more over shoulder length to compensate for the bone. More fullness over the back blades too. What fitters overlook is the prominent point of the bone is the height of your shoulder and not the tip of the shoulder.
 

Alocin

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I bought it through Brogue shop California. The jacket is a TAJ-02F model, Japanese I think?

That model is somewhat of a hybrid I think. It used to be the 254/253 regarding suits/sport coats but I can’t entirely confirm if they just changed the name or changed anything about the model.

I think it’s still closer to the Japanese fit. I own multiple RJ pieces and in the TAJ-02 suit I bought I had to size up in order to get a proper fit on the jacket and the pants. But also, the Japanese models have slightly more forward shoulders, so anecdotally I think this could cause some issues around the area but hopefully the tailors here can give you more precise info.
 

CorozoButton

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Hard to see the issues you mention from these pictures. When the chest is cut too narrow/small. The small chest is the problem and bowing is the symptom. If these lapels are bowing, which I can’t see, it can be caused by other issues. Probably not enough shape in the canvass.
Can’t see any detail on the trouser.
The sleeves is set too far forward and needs to be rotated back. Move your arm forward to see the wrinkles on back of the sleeve disappear. The fix is turning the sleeve back to match your arm position
Thank you for the reply. Sorry, I explained badly, I did not mean the chest was bowing outwards, away from my chest at all, just that the inside of the lapel/chest was curving. Compare mine to this image on the right. The line from the collar to the buttoning point is much more straight, and I thought the curve in mine meant a too small chest? I could be completely wrong on this (and probably am). Possibly my collar needs to be tighter to bring the top of the lapel in?
1611689198808.png


Could I ask what you mean by 'over the shoulder length' regarding the bump on the shoulder?

I see what you mean about the wrinkles in the back, but I don't know what to do regarding the big fold on the left sleeve here. It's hard to see in the photo, but it sort of folds over itself, and I can't work out what causes it.
1611689328877.png


Here are artificially brightened trouser pictures:
1611689553967.png
 
Last edited:

moimael

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That model is somewhat of a hybrid I think. It used to be the 254/253 regarding suits/sport coats but I can’t entirely confirm if they just changed the name or changed anything about the model.

I think it’s still closer to the Japanese fit. I own multiple RJ pieces and in the TAJ-02 suit I bought I had to size up in order to get a proper fit on the jacket and the pants. But also, the Japanese models have slightly more forward shoulders, so anecdotally I think this could cause some issues around the area but hopefully the tailors here can give you more precise info.

Yes, I think I read something along those lines as well. I hesitated to size up but I think the shoulders would have been a bit wide then. The forward shoulder thing is something I was looking for since I have a forward posture but it seems not as much as the Japanese (if the extra fabric near the armhole comes from that). Thanks!
 

Alocin

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Yes, I think I read something along those lines as well. I hesitated to size up but I think the shoulders would have been a bit wide then. The forward shoulder thing is something I was looking for since I have a forward posture. Thanks!

There’s a few photos of myself in some RJ pieces in that thread if you care to see some of the differences. But for me pretty much across the board I am a 52 in JP models(with one DB exception) and 50 in the Armoury models
 

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