The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[BB_Adept]

Ask something specific about the trouser you posted. What do you like or don't like about this trouser?
They really don't fit that bad. You would be lucky getting a better fit than these ordering online. If you follow the online trouser orders in threads like this you can see what the issues are. Usually takes several orders to get close. Do you have a tailor in your city you could visit?
If you see a trouser profile in a picture and are trying to achieve the same look, it doesn't always work. To get a good fitting trouser is to match the cut/balance/proportions to your body type. your body type is the major influence of how the trouser looks. Some trousers will compliment you and others won't. Using a tailor is adapting the pattern or making one for your body type.
One issue I see is you have a high left hip, causing these trousers to collapse on the right side.
The seat is a little snug and the crotch could be let out but depending on the cloth they might stretch form wear enough and not need altering.

What i dislike is the way the fit on my butt. It seems like my butt was that of an 80 year old man wearing a diaper.
Also the crotch, at least these were my thoughts, seems to be too loose rather than too tight.
Alltogether i dislike the way these trousers look an me. I attached a couple of more Photos, not as unsatisfyed as before but still not nea rly satisfied.
I wonder if it is the high rise in general that does not suit me (at least in my opinion) but these specific pants.
I am looking for a pair of classic looking trousers with a looser fit around the thigh than the ones I usually wear. Also I wonder if a pair from Dylan and son (just because they were mentioned in an article on styleforum) or smth like luxury would be any better if I took my measurements.

 

[Camillo]

@BB_Adept , like Despos, I think these trousers fit quite well (considering it's RTW). I'll not try to advise on alternations to improve the fit because Despos is the professional here, as always. But I can see, that you have high expectations of how a pair of trousers should fit on you. In that case, if you're looking for a good qulality/price ratio, I think you can consider online MTM. There are several makers (like Dylan and Son you mentioned), whose very good results can be found on the internet.

Moreover, I think these Natalino trousers fit good enough to be the basis for measurements.

 

[Shetterd]

Yeah, doing those adjustments will make the jacket fit better

Thanks very much! Sound as though you'd agree that with these alterations, the fit will be in a pretty good place.

 

[BB_Adept]

@BB_Adept , like Despos, I think these trousers fit quite well (considering it's RTW). I'll not try to advise on alternations to improve the fit because Despos is the professional here, as always. But I can see, that you have high expectations of how a pair of trousers should fit on you. In that case, if you're looking for a good qulality/price ratio, I think you can consider online MTM. There are several makers (like Dylan and Son you mentioned), whose very good results can be found on the internet.

Moreover, I think these Natalino trousers fit good enough to be the basis for measurements.

Thanks for your opinion!
Just as a clarification, I am realistic. If this type of trousers just isn't for me that's fine. I'm just not certain what it is yet, but I do not like this type enough to keep it. Paying 300 euros for a pair of mtm would be okay if they are what I am looking for. At least it is better than paying half of that and not being satisfied.
I think I will return these and order a pair from Dylan and son.

 

[Camillo]

Thanks for your opinion!
Just as a clarification, I am realistic. If this type of trousers just isn't for me that's fine. I'm just not certain what it is yet, but I do not like this type enough to keep it. Paying 300 euros for a pair of mtm would be okay if they are what I am looking for. At least it is better than paying half of that and not being satisfied.
I think I will return these and order a pair from Dylan and son.

You have thoroughly researched the topic of how well-fitting pants should fit and therefore have high expectations. Now when you want to check if this type of trousers suits you, you have to find a tailor at a sufficiently high level - RTW will most definitely fail here (or maybe you're lucky and you will fit into the off-the-rack pattern of some brand).

If I may suggest a maker other than D&S, from personal experience I recommend Collaro. Not to be groundless, bellow is my first pair of trousers (done completely remotely) made by them, preceded by a test pair:



There are still some issues to be fixed (like for example my lower left hip, it's a little exaggerated in these photos I believe) but the result is very good IMO (sorry for the mismatched t-shirt and shoes).

 

[BB_Adept]

You have thoroughly researched the topic of how well-fitting pants should fit and therefore have high expectations. Now when you want to check if this type of trousers suits you, you have to find a tailor at a sufficiently high level - RTW will most definitely fail here (or maybe you're lucky and you will fit into the off-the-rack pattern of some brand).

If I may suggest a maker other than D&S, from personal experience I recommend Collaro. Not to be groundless, bellow is my first pair of trousers (done completely remotely) made by them, preceded by a test pair:

View attachment 1542555 View attachment 1542554 View attachment 1542556

There are still some issues to be fixed (like for example my lower left hip, it's a little exaggerated in these photos I believe) but the result is very good IMO (sorry for the mismatched t-shirt and shoes).

Thanks for the input, much appreciated!
These look very good indeed, nice fit.

It is possible of course that the type of pants just is not suited for my anatomy, but I strongly believe that I just have to find the right pair.

I just started trying to up my style a little but it is very hard to find things online without trying them on first. Finding shirts is way easier than trousers. A slim fit turtleneck will always look good on me, but finding the right pair of pants seems to be just as hard as finding suitable jewelry.

 

[Camillo]

Thanks for the input, much appreciated!
These look very good indeed, nice fit.

It is possible of course that the type of pants just is not suited for my anatomy, but I strongly believe that I just have to find the right pair.

I just started trying to up my style a little but it is very hard to find things online without trying them on first. Finding shirts is way easier than trousers. A slim fit turtleneck will always look good on me, but finding the right pair of pants seems to be just as hard as finding suitable jewelry.

I think there's no "anatomical problem" here, because they fit you quite well. I think what @Despos meant was that you have to get used to this type of trousers to determine if it's what you are looking for and what suits you. It doesn't make sense to test RTW trousers based on your expectations for fit, because you won't be happy with them from the start. When you achieve a satisfactory fit then you can evaluate your style over time.

 

[BB_Adept]

I still do not quite understand why I seem to be the only one who thinks that the crotch and buttocks look as if I was wearing a diaper. Your picture looks much better, prominent buttocks and non wrinkled crotch. I am pretty sure my backside is more muscular than yours and yet your butt looks better when comparing these pictures.

The tailor you suggested looks very good indeed and I like the idea of trial pants. However, I have no idea how to measure my best fitting trousers since I am not 100% satisfied with either of them

 

[Despos]

I still do not quite understand why I seem to be the only one who thinks that the crotch and buttocks look as if I was wearing a diaper. Your picture looks much better, prominent buttocks and non wrinkled crotch. I am pretty sure my backside is more muscular than yours and yet your butt looks better when comparing these pictures.

The tailor you suggested looks very good indeed and I like the idea of trial pants. However, I have no idea how to measure my best fitting trousers since I am not 100% satisfied with either of them

Do you mean the pulling/ wrinkles under the seat, top of the thigh? This pulling is created from the trouser being tight, not loose. To get it to look like the the trouser Camilo posted you have to let the crotch out and reshape the curve of the seat line and make it deeper.
Measurements don’t make trousers fit properly they only provide the sizing of waist, hip and the leg styling. It’s the angles of the pattern and the relation of the back and front pattern pieces that create the fit and that’s the limitation of MTM. the angles are fixed into the pattern. That’s why you can try on trousers from multiple makers and they all fit differently. It’s the angles of the pattern lines that are different and change the fit. If the angles of a MTM pattern don’t align with your shape, it won’t look or feel right. It’s also the non negotiable to working with an online maker. If the pattern angles correspond with your body shape/type then it works. You might be lucky and get a good fit from MTM or it may take several pairs or even several makers to get there. Won’t know until you try. It really is easier to shop around brick and mortar stores and try on as many different trousers as you can find to see what fits you.

 

[BB_Adept]

Do you mean the pulling/ wrinkles under the seat, top of the thigh? This pulling is created from the trouser being tight, not loose. To get it to look like the the trouser Camilo posted you have to let the crotch out and reshape the curve of the seat line and make it deeper.
Measurements don’t make trousers fit properly they only provide the sizing of waist, hip and the leg styling. It’s the angles of the pattern and the relation of the back and front pattern pieces that create the fit and that’s the limitation of MTM. the angles are fixed into the pattern. That’s why you can try on trousers from multiple makers and they all fit differently. It’s the angles of the pattern lines that are different and change the fit. If the angles of a MTM pattern don’t align with your shape, it won’t look or feel right. It’s also the non negotiable to working with an online maker. If the pattern angles correspond with your body shape/type then it works. You might be lucky and get a good fit from MTM or it may take several pairs or even several makers to get there. Won’t know until you try. It really is easier to shop around brick and mortar stores and try on as many different trousers as you can find to see what fits you.

If I understand correctly you two would still advice me to keep these and let a decent tailor have a look to get some things altered, right? I would not be ruined if I kept them, so even if I end up still not liking them I would at least be a little smarter next time.

 

[Camillo]

If I understand correctly you two would still advice me to keep these and let a decent tailor have a look to get some things altered, right? I would not be ruined if I kept them, so even if I end up still not liking them I would at least be a little smarter next time.

I would say there's no simple answer.

You can continue looking for a well-fitting pair of RTW trousers, or go straight to MTM or even bespoke.I had the same "problems" as you some time ago and my expectations for the fit were also pretty high, mainly due to seeing lots of pictures of well-fitting trousers. I tried a few RTW makers, I even tested Natalino which fit decently but I was looking for something better. I achieved good results with Luxire but it took about 6-7 iterations (and the trousers I used to measure fit worse than yours). I achieved a distinctly better result with Collaro much faster but it's probably due to what Despos mentioned - I just fit in better with their default pattern.

Generally speaking, I have good experiences with online MTM and I believe that last year has shown that remote consultation with a tailor can be a future-proof solution. There are more and more makers offering an extensive remote MTM service, where the range of possible modifications is really large. Assessing the fit and determining the necessary modifications from the photos is certainly a challenge but my humble experience in this matter shows that you can get really good results.

if I had to advise - either consult this pair of trousers with a tailor or look for another RTW / MTM pair (or go bespoke). No matter what you choose, success is not guaranteed. These are different paths, one will be shorter, the other will be longer.

 

[Aloysius16]

Agree with this about MTM. I tried for a while with Luxire, even sending them trousers to replicate. I am sure the measurements with copied identically, but each pair had a poor fit for some common mysterious factor about the basic pattern. In my case, the lower seat curve was much too deep it seemed (creating a sort of inverse L shape, rather than an inverse C) which meant that all pairs, however big or small, tended to drag at the knee when walking and were restrictive when sitting.

I have found similar issues with mtm shirts about the collar/neck/shoulder fit

 

[FlyingHorker]

This is a S&M OTR overcoat. I'm curious to see the cause of this vent flaring. It's there even without having the coat on. I wonder if it's possible to be fixed.

 

[Despos]

This is a S&M OTR overcoat. I'm curious to see the cause of this vent flaring. It's there even without having the coat on. I wonder if it's possible to be fixed.

Take it to your tailor. Something may be causing it to open or it may be just the way it is. Can’t diagnose this one online.

 

[Despos]

Hello All,

This is my first MTM jacket. I got it in October and since then have grown increasingly dissatisfied with it. The tailor specializes in drape cuts which is what I wanted but the final product does not look at all like any others I have seen. My main issues are:
1 - the pinching and borderline horizontal 'stripe' at the buttoning point. Too small? I gained no weight between fittings
2 - the strong creasing on the arms. It is Harris tweed and I expected little to no wrinkling due to the properties of the fabric. These wrinkles showed up the first time I wore the jacket and I have never been able to get them out.
3 - the bagginess in the upper back arms, over the triceps.
4 - the overall shape and profile. I am not overweight and lift and exercise regularly. The profile from the rear looks alright but the front is dumpy at best.

Please let me know if there are any other issues you spot and how many of them are due to the nature of drape cuts or possibly poor tailoring, also how much is fixable. I have taken to wearing it unbuttoned because it looks so off.

Thank you in advance for any advice you can give, this situation has been very disappointing.
View attachment 1540781 View attachment 1540782 View attachment 1540783 View attachment 1540784 View attachment 1540785

@GaiusM

This does have a boxy look from the front. The shape of the front edges contributes to the boxy effect. I wouldn’t want a tweed jacket with a chiseled hour glass waist though.
The pull on the button is more often a balance issue than tightness. The more the fronts open or fall away when unbuttoned the greater the pull at the button. The chest from the armhole upwards (not the drape below the armhole)is small and causing the bowing of the lapel.
Right side view looks like short front balance and the left side view shows the front hiking up and forward in a more dramatic way than the right side. May be the photo.
Don’t know what the bagginess over the triceps means. The folds of cloth? That is a pitch issue.
If the sleeves are too narrow it can cause excess wrinkles but these look fine so the wrinkles are in the nature of the cloth and not effected by the tailoring or the fit.
The back doesn’t have any definition, just a lot of drape.
Did you work with a store or a tailor that you can go back to or was this an online purchase?**