The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[zr3rs]

Can we rename this thread:
The @Despos thread: free advice that is worth a millon

I would have needed it before I found a proper tailor...

 

[Despos]

Lesson definitely learned. I'm not even going to bother requesting a second remake. Keep these as-is. As you suggest, I'd rather save up (both money and time) and go to a proper tailor next year or the year after. Because a remake of a remake: fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice ... But fool me three times?!

@nevaeh
Just figured out your user name is Heaven spelled backwards

 

[Despos]

Can we rename this thread:
The @Despos thread: free advice that is worth a millon

I would have needed it before I found a proper tailor...

@zr3rs

Good to know you have a proper tailor.

Makes me wonder when I read about places that don't try to improve the fit before clothes leave their businesses. Seems ingenuous. You wouldn't go back to someone who didn't give you a good haircut or cut it the way you prefer. Or go back to a mechanic that didn't diagnose or fix your car properly.

Wonder sometimes how this advice gets used or applied. Wouldn't want it used by anyone to explain to a tailor what his job is. Hope you use it to inform yourself about fitting issues and it helps you recognize a "proper" tailor.
Tailoring will survive if there is an appreciative and understanding audience.
Thank you for your kind words!

 

[Herk]

This is my second iteration of pants from Luxire. I've been longing for good fitting pants for quite some time now. I'd be eternally grateful if someone could help me figure out what changes are necessary for a better drape.

I sent Luxire these pictures:

and they suggested the following changes:
“Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.5"
“Increase back rise at crotch by 0.5"

While this seems right there must be something else that needs to change. The pants crumble and give me a wedgie when I use my normal stance (picture 1, 2, 4 and 6 from the left). When I tilt my pelvic however, the pants drape decently. I’d be really happy if you could help me figure out what’s wrong here and what needs to be changed. I’ll attach images below. Will Luxires suggestions fix this problem? I don't understand all the technicalities of trouser construction but it seems to me that this would only fix the issue with the pants going up my bum?

Best regards,
Herk

 

[Despos]

This is my second iteration of pants from Luxire. I've been longing for good fitting pants for quite some time now. I'd be eternally grateful if someone could help me figure out what changes are necessary for a better drape.

I sent Luxire these pictures:
View attachment 1525342
and they suggested the following changes:
“Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.5"
“Increase back rise at crotch by 0.5"

While this seems right there must be something else that needs to change. The pants crumble and give me a wedgie when I use my normal stance. When I tilt my pelvic however, the pants drape decently. I’d be really happy if you could help me figure out what’s wrong here and what needs to be changed. I’ll attach images below. Will Luxires suggestions fix this problem? I don't understand all the technicalities of trouser construction but it seems to me that this would only fix the issue with the pants going up my bum?

Best regards,
Herk

Pictures aren’t helpful because they are different postures and not a natural stance.or I can’t identify which are.
The adjustments they suggest can easily be done by a tailor. There should be .5” of outlet in the crotch and deepening the seat curve .5” doesn’t require any cloth. Then you will know if their suggestions remedy the problem. Do this before starting another pair.
My guess is you need to let out the crotch 1 to 1.5” and reshape the seat. Those will improve the fit but not the drape. Their pattern has that inherent flaw and changing measurements won’t correct the pattern.
Trousers look too short. If those are cotton you will get shrinkage and then they are way too short.
Very difficult to dial in trouser fit with cotton. It doesn’t tailor like wool and some issues may be from the cloth type.

 

[Herk]

Pictures aren’t helpful because they are different postures and not a natural stance.or I can’t identify which are.
The adjustments they suggest can easily be done by a tailor. There should be .5” of outlet in the crotch and deepening the seat curve .5” doesn’t require any cloth. Then you will know if their suggestions remedy the problem. Do this before starting another pair.
My guess is you need to let out the crotch 1 to 1.5” and reshape the seat. Those will improve the fit but not the drape. Their pattern has that inherent flaw and changing measurements won’t correct the pattern.
Trousers look too short. If those are cotton you will get shrinkage and then they are way too short.
Very difficult to dial in trouser fit with cotton. It doesn’t tailor like wool and some issues may be from the cloth type.

Thank you very much for your lengthy reply!
I use my natural stance in picture 1, 2, 4 and 6 from the left. In the other pictures i tilt my pelvic backwards to illustrate that it gives a 'better" drape. I agree that the pants are to short and also too tapered. They told me that they can change the pattern but didn't give me any further information about it, and I lack the knowledge to know what that actually means. I guess you mean that their pattern have an inherent flaw in regards to my type of stance? Do you think it would be better for me to go MtM and then send in the pants for them to make copy it? Again, thank you for your reply!

 

[Despos]

the seat issue in picture 4 & 6 is a pattern issue. This is the defect in the pattern they use. This happens on most of the trousers they make that are posted here. They won’t get it right copying another trouser. If the pattern was better this issue wouldn’t occur.
Try another maker. Start with your measurements and no adjustments to see how their pattern works for you. Then make adjustments. If using an online system, that’s the only way to get to a well fitted trouser. Trial and error.
Working online and supplying the info yourself isn’t really cost effective. Each garment you make is an experiment because neither you or luxire knows what to do. If you want better results, use a tailor who does MTM and let him fit you.

 

[othertravel]

This is my second iteration of pants from Luxire. I've been longing for good fitting pants for quite some time now. I'd be eternally grateful if someone could help me figure out what changes are necessary for a better drape.

I sent Luxire these pictures:
View attachment 1525342
and they suggested the following changes:
“Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.5"
“Increase back rise at crotch by 0.5"

While this seems right there must be something else that needs to change. The pants crumble and give me a wedgie when I use my normal stance (picture 1, 2, 4 and 6 from the left). When I tilt my pelvic however, the pants drape decently. I’d be really happy if you could help me figure out what’s wrong here and what needs to be changed. I’ll attach images below. Will Luxires suggestions fix this problem? I don't understand all the technicalities of trouser construction but it seems to me that this would only fix the issue with the pants going up my bum?

Best regards,
Herk

I have nothing to add to Despos’ expert take, except to say you should consider going with a different maker.

 

[breakaway01]

I agree that there is a systematic problem in Luxire’s base trouser pattern. Would not recommend sending them measurements to make a pair of trousers. However they are very good at copying a pair of trousers that you send in. They seem to create a pattern from those trousers rather than try to translate it to their own block pattern.

 

[MartinBruegel]

Hello all, I recently had a bespoke jacket made for me. I am fairly happy with the fit overall, but I have some issues when I raise my arms.



As you can see from the photos, the shoulder lifts up considerably. For reference, the tailor initially put in shoulder pads, which I had said I didn't want. He removed them again and said this wouldn't be a problem. Now the shoulders are entirely natural, save for the canvassing which runs up to the front of the shoulder seams. Overall it hasn't been an issue - the shoulders look okay when my arms are down by my sides.



Nevertheless, raising my arms causes a lot of bunching. I also feel the armholes could be higher. Could this be the issue, or is there simply too much excess cloth in the shoulder after having the pads removed?



Please let me know if different angles are needed.



Any pointers would be highly appreciated.

 

[Megakurth]

I agree that there is a systematic problem in Luxire’s base trouser pattern. Would not recommend sending them measurements to make a pair of trousers. However they are very good at copying a pair of trousers that you send in. They seem to create a pattern from those trousers rather than try to translate it to their own block pattern.

It took me a few years to really nail down the pattern with Luxire, even with in-person measurements when they did their NYC trunk show. It was especially a challenge when going from cotton, to linen, to wool. I’m pretty happy with my pattern now, but if I could do it all over again, I’d start with a copy of something at least decent fitting in wool and build from there.

 

[Despos]

Hello all, I recently had a bespoke jacket made for me. I am fairly happy with the fit overall, but I have some issues when I raise my arms.



As you can see from the photos, the shoulder lifts up considerably. For reference, the tailor initially put in shoulder pads, which I had said I didn't want. He removed them again and said this wouldn't be a problem. Now the shoulders are entirely natural, save for the canvassing which runs up to the front of the shoulder seams. Overall it hasn't been an issue - the shoulders look okay when my arms are down by my sides.



Nevertheless, raising my arms causes a lot of bunching. I also feel the armholes could be higher. Could this be the issue, or is there simply too much excess cloth in the shoulder after having the pads removed?



Please let me know if different angles are needed.



Any pointers would be highly appreciated.

Cannot see anything wrong in these pictures. See good things. Collar staying close to your neck with arm up. That's good.
Maybe someone else can see something and comment.

 

[ChasingStyle]

Hello all, I recently had a bespoke jacket made for me. I am fairly happy with the fit overall, but I have some issues when I raise my arms.



As you can see from the photos, the shoulder lifts up considerably. For reference, the tailor initially put in shoulder pads, which I had said I didn't want. He removed them again and said this wouldn't be a problem. Now the shoulders are entirely natural, save for the canvassing which runs up to the front of the shoulder seams. Overall it hasn't been an issue - the shoulders look okay when my arms are down by my sides.



Nevertheless, raising my arms causes a lot of bunching. I also feel the armholes could be higher. Could this be the issue, or is there simply too much excess cloth in the shoulder after having the pads removed?



Please let me know if different angles are needed.



Any pointers would be highly appreciated.

Shoulder looks big and armhole looks low.

 

[Despos]

Shoulder looks big and armhole looks low.

Yeah I agree, the jacket looks big.

 

[macumbista]

I had the back of a jacket taken in by a shop-recommended tailor, but now the pattern in the fabric doesn't line up. I understand that material must be moved to take things in, but this does seem to throw off the appearance of the back quite a bit (in other words you can clearly see the alteration). Should I be concerned about this?