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@nevaehLesson definitely learned. I'm not even going to bother requesting a second remake. Keep these as-is. As you suggest, I'd rather save up (both money and time) and go to a proper tailor next year or the year after. Because a remake of a remake: fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice ... But fool me three times?!
@zr3rsCan we rename this thread:
The @Despos thread: free advice that is worth a millon
I would have needed it before I found a proper tailor...
Pictures aren’t helpful because they are different postures and not a natural stance.or I can’t identify which are.This is my second iteration of pants from Luxire. I've been longing for good fitting pants for quite some time now. I'd be eternally grateful if someone could help me figure out what changes are necessary for a better drape.
I sent Luxire these pictures:
View attachment 1525342
and they suggested the following changes:
“Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.5"
“Increase back rise at crotch by 0.5"
While this seems right there must be something else that needs to change. The pants crumble and give me a wedgie when I use my normal stance. When I tilt my pelvic however, the pants drape decently. I’d be really happy if you could help me figure out what’s wrong here and what needs to be changed. I’ll attach images below. Will Luxires suggestions fix this problem? I don't understand all the technicalities of trouser construction but it seems to me that this would only fix the issue with the pants going up my bum?
Best regards,
Herk
Thank you very much for your lengthy reply!Pictures aren’t helpful because they are different postures and not a natural stance.or I can’t identify which are.
The adjustments they suggest can easily be done by a tailor. There should be .5” of outlet in the crotch and deepening the seat curve .5” doesn’t require any cloth. Then you will know if their suggestions remedy the problem. Do this before starting another pair.
My guess is you need to let out the crotch 1 to 1.5” and reshape the seat. Those will improve the fit but not the drape. Their pattern has that inherent flaw and changing measurements won’t correct the pattern.
Trousers look too short. If those are cotton you will get shrinkage and then they are way too short.
Very difficult to dial in trouser fit with cotton. It doesn’t tailor like wool and some issues may be from the cloth type.
This is my second iteration of pants from Luxire. I've been longing for good fitting pants for quite some time now. I'd be eternally grateful if someone could help me figure out what changes are necessary for a better drape.
I sent Luxire these pictures:
View attachment 1525342
and they suggested the following changes:
“Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.5"
“Increase back rise at crotch by 0.5"
While this seems right there must be something else that needs to change. The pants crumble and give me a wedgie when I use my normal stance (picture 1, 2, 4 and 6 from the left). When I tilt my pelvic however, the pants drape decently. I’d be really happy if you could help me figure out what’s wrong here and what needs to be changed. I’ll attach images below. Will Luxires suggestions fix this problem? I don't understand all the technicalities of trouser construction but it seems to me that this would only fix the issue with the pants going up my bum?
Best regards,
Herk
It took me a few years to really nail down the pattern with Luxire, even with in-person measurements when they did their NYC trunk show. It was especially a challenge when going from cotton, to linen, to wool. I’m pretty happy with my pattern now, but if I could do it all over again, I’d start with a copy of something at least decent fitting in wool and build from there.I agree that there is a systematic problem in Luxire’s base trouser pattern. Would not recommend sending them measurements to make a pair of trousers. However they are very good at copying a pair of trousers that you send in. They seem to create a pattern from those trousers rather than try to translate it to their own block pattern.
Cannot see anything wrong in these pictures. See good things. Collar staying close to your neck with arm up. That's good.Hello all, I recently had a bespoke jacket made for me. I am fairly happy with the fit overall, but I have some issues when I raise my arms.
As you can see from the photos, the shoulder lifts up considerably. For reference, the tailor initially put in shoulder pads, which I had said I didn't want. He removed them again and said this wouldn't be a problem. Now the shoulders are entirely natural, save for the canvassing which runs up to the front of the shoulder seams. Overall it hasn't been an issue - the shoulders look okay when my arms are down by my sides.
Nevertheless, raising my arms causes a lot of bunching. I also feel the armholes could be higher. Could this be the issue, or is there simply too much excess cloth in the shoulder after having the pads removed?
Please let me know if different angles are needed.
Any pointers would be highly appreciated.
Hello all, I recently had a bespoke jacket made for me. I am fairly happy with the fit overall, but I have some issues when I raise my arms.
As you can see from the photos, the shoulder lifts up considerably. For reference, the tailor initially put in shoulder pads, which I had said I didn't want. He removed them again and said this wouldn't be a problem. Now the shoulders are entirely natural, save for the canvassing which runs up to the front of the shoulder seams. Overall it hasn't been an issue - the shoulders look okay when my arms are down by my sides.
Nevertheless, raising my arms causes a lot of bunching. I also feel the armholes could be higher. Could this be the issue, or is there simply too much excess cloth in the shoulder after having the pads removed?
Please let me know if different angles are needed.
Any pointers would be highly appreciated.
Yeah I agree, the jacket looks big.Shoulder looks big and armhole looks low.