The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[ijones027]

Can anyone tell the quality from pics?

 

[dauster]

Can anyone tell the quality from pics?

more importantly how does it fit? I am assuming it is fused or at best half lined - made in china quality. But I am guessing you are not paying an arm and a leg for it so if the fit is right - why not?!?

 

[OldTown]

Anyone know if suit pants that have their waist brought in if tailors usually leave extra fabric for the future in case it needs to be let out? I know that usually pants when purchased have 1/2 inch or so to play with, but was wondering if it's normal to maintain some extra fabric after an alteration as well.

 

[breakaway01]

Anyone know if suit pants that have their waist brought in if tailors usually leave extra fabric for the future in case it needs to be let out? I know that usually pants when purchased have 1/2 inch or so to play with, but was wondering if it's normal to maintain some extra fabric after an alteration as well.

not a tailor but typically yes. If you look at the inside of the seat seam of your trousers, you will see the amount of excess fabric (inlay) available for letting the seat seam out, and this should give you a good idea of how much the waistband/waist can be let out.

 

[SonnyUte]

Recently I had a pair of Brooklyn Britches for Epaulet hemmed by my local tailor. Perhaps I am being too critical, but I am not happy with the “bunching” at the hems.
should I ask for a redo?

Even on the hanger it doesn’t look great.

 

[Despos]

Short explanation of the cause and the fix.
The leg tapers from wider at the knee to more narrow at the hem. The circumference of the cuff is more narrow than the circumference of the leg at the point of the turn up of the cuff and is causing the puckering.
They need to taper the leg so the circumference of the leg is the same or a bit less at the top of the cuff.
They sewed the cuff by machine in the seam to hold the cuff in place.
Ask them to tack the cuff by hand and not machine. Will look much cleaner.

 

[SonnyUte]

Short explanation of the cause and the fix.
The leg tapers from wider at the knee to more narrow at the hem. The circumference of the cuff is more narrow than the circumference of the leg at the point of the turn up of the cuff and is causing the puckering.
They need to taper the leg so the circumference of the leg is the same or a bit less at the top of the cuff.
They sewed the cuff by machine in the seam to hold the cuff in place.
Ask them to tack the cuff by hand and not machine. Will look much cleaner.

Thank you so much.

 

[Megakurth]

Received my Drapers Navy Hopsack jacket from Sartoria Pastena Elegance in Naples. Measurements were taken by my wife and accompanied by photos. Lots of handwork on the jacket. Would love some feedback (this is after some wear and it could probably use a proper press).

 

[nevaeh]

Hi everyone! What do you think of the fit of this jacket? What alterations would you suggest? It's RTW, so I'm not expecting miracles, but it's the most I can afford right now.

I'll appreciate your feedback!

Hello, mr. Despos! Thank you for your response. I would like to make the jacket without shoulder pads. The fabric has plaids and i don t know if it s possible to rise the back because the plaids won t match. I also try to remove 1 cm just from the back but it s not working 100%. I think i also have to do some alteration on the collar area and also make the back larger.
Thank you!

Going through some old posts here, like the ones I cite above, I noticed some folks have a tighter waist suppression.

Is waist suppression something that tailors generally keep consistent for all clients (i.e., house style) or is this adjusted for different clients’ physiques (e.g., perhaps slimmer folks get tighter waist suppression)? What are the factors that go into determining how much to suppress the waist?

EDIT: attaching the photos posted by @Alx190 and @ifelix since they didn't transfer over. Photo credit to them!

 

[ChancellorGeneBlock]

Hi all,

Thoughts on the fit of this jacket? It's the Spier and Mackay 38S contemporary fit. There is a bit of tightness and lapel gape around the upper chest, but is it not noticeable enough that I can just roll with this jacket?

 

[LuxLibertas]

Spoiler: Fit Pics

My damn shoulders will be the death of me. Any idea what's going on with them? I think my shoulders are low and forward relative to the pattern, and I also think the rigidity and thickness of this tweed might be affecting the shoulders, since a very thin worsted wool on the same pattern looked fine.

I know that my right shoulder is lower than my left; I'm fine with that.

 

[Despos]

Spoiler: Fit Pics

View attachment 1480751 View attachment 1480752 View attachment 1480753

My damn shoulders will be the death of me. Any idea what's going on with them? I think my shoulders are low and forward relative to the pattern, and I also think the rigidity and thickness of this tweed might be affecting the shoulders, since a very thin worsted wool on the same pattern looked fine.

I know that my right shoulder is lower than my left; I'm fine with that.

Did you have this altered? Reducing the waist and adjusting the back to have more ease/movement?

 

[LuxLibertas]

Did you have this altered? Reducing the waist and adjusting the back to have more ease/movement?

No, why?

 

[Despos]

No, why?

Did you buy this new as RTW or MTM?

 

[LuxLibertas]

Did you buy this new as RTW or MTM?

MTM.