Megakurth
Senior Member
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2010
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I’ve had similar issues with the collar on a few of my Luxire jackets. Actually @Despos helped identify that the collar may be too short. I sent one of my jackets back where they are trying to alleviate the issue.I'd appreciate some feedback regarding my latest jacket and trousers.
Trousers
The trousers are made from 15 oz VBC stone covert wool. Overall I'm very happy with them but there's still a couple of minor things I'd like to improve for the next pair:
View attachment 1394535
- The right front crease is perfect. Nice and straight from top to bottom without converging at the top and with a nice rolling transition from pleat to crease. The left front crease is less well behaved. The left pleat is positioned closer to the fly than the right and it doesn't roll quite as nicely. I imagine that making the pleat positions perfectly symmetrical and increasing the width of the left leg slightly might improve the situation?
- The area below the seat could be cleaner. This is something I've struggled with for a long time. Neither me nor Luxire appears to be capable of solving this. Unless someone here has any good ideas I'm leaning towards giving up and calling it good enough.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b3b8n4qt7xvt9gw/shirtStripedCropped.jpg?dl=0
Jacket
Let's start with my previous jacket as a reference. Overall I like the look, but it has a few issues:
View attachment 1394536
- The chest width is too tight. The narrow back limits my reach and and the lapels are pulled a bit outwards.
- The lower half of the sleeves are too narrow. They can't slide up my arms which limits reach and they feel too tight at the elbows when I bend my arms.
- The collar shape at the back of the neck is odd. It doesn't follow the line of the shirt collar but instead bends down at center back.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zpin4rpbm4ffhe7/jacketBlueCropped.jpg?dl=0
Now for my latest jacket in brown glen check flannel from Loro Piana:
View attachment 1394537
- The chest width was increased from 51 to 54 cm and is no longer restrictive.
- The sleeve circumference at the elbow was increased by 1 cm. Enough to no longer feel restrictive.
- The collar now sits a bit higher center back. Not fully in line with the collar line, but enough to no longer look odd.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a046e4nww0m8t05/jacketBrownclosedFlapsOutCropped.jpg?dl=0
Unfortunately not all changes were improvements:
All thoughts, tips and ideas are welcome. Both pattern improvements for the next iteration as well as alteration suggestions for this jacket.
- Is the extra chest and waist width too much?
- The upper sleeve width was increased from 19 to 21.5 cm. I didn't feel a need for more with in the upper arms and I don't like the look. The back of the sleeves are messier. Maybe because of the excess fabric? Maybe the sleeve pitch is off?
- The arm hole size increased from 27 to 30 cm. I loved the high arm holes on the previous jacket and I don't appreciate the increase. Maybe it was done to fit the larger sleeve?
- The shoulder seems to have a lot more roping. Maybe it's just because of the different fabric? Or maybe it's a different construction? I'd prefer a more natural knocked down shoulder.