The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

half canvas actually

Will suggest what changes I would do and you can decide what effect they have.
The chest is too small from armhole upwards. This causes the bowing of the lapel when buttoned. Buttoning point is too high. If these were changed the chest would lie flat and the stress would be less obvious on the button. What you see now is the fronts being pulled together to button and it causes the lower fronts to torque outwards. See how the front panels are convex at the front edge and is bowing upward? This is difficult to correct on a half canvas construction but is exaggerated by the fit.
Looks like the fronts are bit short, front/back balance, and contributing to this.
The lapels are hollow and doing the same thing. This is from the construction methods.
Those points when paired with the narrow shoulder create an A line effect of the silhouette. Narrow at the top and flaring out to the hem. This is opposite of male proportions used in anatomy drawings.
Most egregious is the narrow shoulder. Take a look at almost any jacket. The angle of how the sleeve attaches to the body is close to parallel of the breakline of the lapel, like this //. The line of the sleeve on your jacket is almost opposite and at least is horizontal. Your jacket looks like this / I. the diagonal line being the breakline of the lapel on the left front and the vertical being the sleeve/body seam on the left sleeve. This adds to the A line effect the jacket has.
Bigger chest doesn't mean it will be full or loose, you can still have a fitted jacket.You gain balance and proportion and you look fit. Will also add shape to the jacket which will get you many more compliments. Nobody is going to approach you and say "hey,nice super fitted suit!" They may respond to a shaped jacket with good proportions.
Don't use the pockets on the trousers. Anything you put in the pockets will bulge out and look bad.

Style, proportion and fit were sacrificed at the altar of "super slim fit"
If your approach was to have the most fitted, close to the body suit, then you came close. The effect came out looking contrived, forced and unbalanced. Jacket looks painful to wear IMO.

 

[Despos]

Hi @Despos
Just following up on this~
I got the front and side pictures. Do you think it's possible to bring out the front/side seams like you were saying to get the back to lay a bit more cleanly?
Thanks in advance!

It's all up to who does the work and how they approach it. It can be done but execution has be done correctly

 

[AriGold]

helpful, thank you despos!

 

[Despos]

@AriGold
Look how the sleeve is attached here. See the difference in the lines? The angle of the breakline and the sleeve is about parallel. These are very fitted jackets. Chest has cloth where needed, and trim where it should be.

 

[EddieK]

It's all up to who does the work and how they approach it. It can be done but execution has be done correctly

Thanks! Great to know. I'll look for a reputable tailor

 

[Kevin24]

Hi All,

I recently purchased a Schott's Wool Peacoat from O'Connell's. I am somewhere between. 40R and 42R (depending on my weight fluctuations). They recommended ordering true to size so I ordered a 40R (though the cut of the coat is generous).

I am unable to take pictures but I am finding the arms quite tight and I feel tightness/pulling when I cross my arms when I am wearing the peacoat. I am undecided if this is due to the weight of the wool or if I need to size up? While the peacoat appears to be the correct length in the arms the body fits just fine?

Is this just the wool weight/structure of the jacket like I'm thinking? Or should I size up?

Thank you for your advice!

 

[dennistsang]

Hi all, I just had my fitting with my tailor. But there is still wrinkling at the lower part of the back.

Do you guys have any comments about this? Thank you.

Here is the front.

 

[dauster]

Hi all, I just had my fitting with my tailor. But there is still wrinkling at the lower part of the back.

Do you guys have any comments about this? Thank you.

View attachment 1386757

Here is the front.
View attachment 1386758

first of looks pretty nice. I like it. who is your tailor?

looks like it's a first fitting. have you asked your tailor about it? I am sure @Despos can give the right advice though...

 

[CorozoButton]

My jackets always have an issue with the left sleeve feeling like it's twisting/folding over itself around the bicep area. It only happens on the left side, and it doesn't seem to be a pitch issue? Does anyone have any idea what's causing this? Apologies that the photos aren't the best!

 

[Despos]

Hi all, I just had my fitting with my tailor. But there is still wrinkling at the lower part of the back.

Do you guys have any comments about this? Thank you.

View attachment 1386757

Here is the front.
View attachment 1386758

Because you say “it’s still wrinkling”; was this altered?
Check the lining in case it is tight, lengthwise and across the waist.
The waist suppression looks too low. The smallest part of the taper could be moved upward and let out at the top of the vents in case it’s tight on the hip

 

[Despos]

My jackets always have an issue with the left sleeve feeling like it's twisting/folding over itself around the bicep area. It only happens on the left side, and it doesn't seem to be a pitch issue? Does anyone have any idea what's causing this? Apologies that the photos aren't the best!

View attachment 1387599
View attachment 1387600

Hard to say by these pictures.
With the jacket on and arms relaxed, move your left arm backwards about 2” and see if it changes.
See some twisting in the shoulder but you didn’t mention that.

 

[CorozoButton]

Hard to say by these pictures.
With the jacket on and arms relaxed, move your left arm backwards about 2” and see if it changes.
See some twisting in the shoulder but you didn’t mention that.

It changes a bit for the better when I move my left arm back, but then I get rumpling at the back of the sleeve as if it were pitched too far forward. I will try and get some proper photos today/this weekend. It almost feels like the sleeve is twisted a bit. The issue also relaxes a bit if I rotate my left palm, so instead of the palm being parallel to my side, the face of the palm is facing forwards, if that makes sense.

 

[Despos]

It changes a bit for the better when I move my left arm back, but then I get rumpling at the back of the sleeve as if it were pitched too far forward. I will try and get some proper photos today/this weekend. It almost feels like the sleeve is twisted a bit. The issue also relaxes a bit if I rotate my left palm, so instead of the palm being parallel to my side, the face of the palm is facing forwards, if that makes sense.

My guess was your left sleeve is set too far to the back and not on the same line as your left arm. The sleeve would be rotated forward to correct the issue. Wrinkles on the back of the sleeve when the sleeve is set too far forward. Wrinkles on front when the sleeve is set too far to the back. Could be more to it or something else entirely. I’m guessing from the limited view of the picture.
If you have it adjusted the tailor will tell you the cause.

 

[CorozoButton]

Any advice on cleaning up the back of this jacket? It's a very lightweight S150 with a super smooth handle. It's not a great cloth for drape, and I've definitely learned from that, but it's here now! I don't think it looks quite this bad in real life, but I edited the brightness to try and show the issues. I really can't tell what's too much and what's too little fabric!

It doesn't feel tight anywhere, I'm able to comfortably put my hand in the front of the jacket and pull it forward. I feel like I have jackets with a tighter waist that don't have these issues, so perhaps a big part of it is just the cloth?

 

[Despos]

Lower back wrinkles will go away if the jacket is let out at the top of the vents. This can be done and not let out the waist. Wouldn't worry about anything else.
You have very square shoulders. Hard to alter for that properly.