The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[walkinginplace]

I don't normally do this, but would someone tell me why these pants, which I paid a lot for and desperately want to love, always have this weird crotch crease? Also, how do I fix it? Please and thank you....

 

[Philby]

A question: Having a slightly short legs and a long-ish torso, unfortunately, I sometimes struggle with the correct jacket length. To cover my back entirely I need a jacket that is some 78cm long, or 75cm from under the collar. My height up to my neck, where the suit collar ends, is 150. The jacket is hence just about three centimetres longer than the bisection one normally aims to achieve. How much leeway do you give yourself when it comes to jacket length?

 

[Royal_Airforce]

A question: Having a slightly short legs and a long-ish torso, unfortunately, I sometimes struggle with the correct jacket length. To cover my back entirely I need a jacket that is some 78cm long, or 75cm from under the collar. My height up to my neck, where the suit collar ends, is 150. The jacket is hence just about three centimetres longer than the bisection one normally aims to achieve. How much leeway do you give yourself when it comes to jacket length?

I’ll do with halving the collar-to-hem height, or entirely covering the crotch, or to the 2nd joint of fingers. Or anything between.

 

[Despos]

A question: Having a slightly short legs and a long-ish torso, unfortunately, I sometimes struggle with the correct jacket length. To cover my back entirely I need a jacket that is some 78cm long, or 75cm from under the collar. My height up to my neck, where the suit collar ends, is 150. The jacket is hence just about three centimetres longer than the bisection one normally aims to achieve. How much leeway do you give yourself when it comes to jacket length?

Tailors measure jacket length from the edge of the under collar, under the collar leaf, to the hem. Not from the top of the collar. Using that method for jacket length is half. Top of collar measurement is popular with resellers or eBay etc.
Best to visually determine the length you like then determine a marker to replicate the length in other jackets. This can be a point on your hand, thumb, knuckle whatever you choose. It will be a different point for different people because arms are different lengths. Use the same hand to find the length or other jackets because you can have different length arms as well.
Mistake made when you try to find jacket length to a specific point on your hand/thumb thinking it is a rule. Determine jacket length first then use hand/thumb point as a marker to replicate in other garments.
You must have one jacket you think to be the best length for you. Use that jacket.

 

[lazym]

Is there an easy way to fix the rumples on the shoulder of this suit?

 

[Rugger]

Alright ladies and germs, I got these two coats back from a pinch job and I'm pretty unhappy with how they turned out. They both looked great when they were pinned up at the tailor, but I think it should be obvious that the left and right sides were done unevenly, and the bottom of the coat, specifically on the blue looks like a circus tent on me.

The most immediate problem and what makes them basically unwearable, in my opinion, is that the sides near the rear vents dont want to fall under the rear flap, and this causes the fabric to bunch and stick out and make it look like I have size 48 hips. You can see the bunching in the side profile photos, hopefully.

I think they're both relatively wearable when buttoned (aside from left and right side nipping being uneven), but what do you guys think I should do? Can anything be done to eliminate some fabric at the hips near the side pockets, or is my only option to let the sides out a bit to lessen the severity? Muchas gracias to any experts @Despos

 

[ThomGault]

what do you guys think I should do?

If your tailor let you leave his shop while wearing those garments, there's a simple solution: find another tailor. The vents are the least of your worries with those jackets.

 

[Rugger]

If your tailor let you leave his shop while wearing those garments, there's a simple solution: find another tailor. The vents are the least of your worries with those jackets.

Care to elaborate on the jackets? Didn't get a chance to follow up with tailor as he's shut down at the moment.

 

[ThomGault]

Care to elaborate?

The sleeve wrinkles and sleeve heads are the most evident problem to my eye, along with the tight crotch/butt wrinkles, not to mention the other issues you referenced, like the hip flare. And that's without even getting into the design mistakes, like the too-high notch, too-high button stance

 

[Rugger]

The sleeve wrinkles and sleeve heads are the most evident problem to my eye, along with the tight crotch/butt wrinkles, not to mention the other issues you referenced, like the hip flare. And that's without even getting into the design mistakes, like the too-high notch, too-high button stance

Thanks for your thoughts ?

Not much I can do about most of that though just trying to make due the best I can with OTR

 

[1up]

Any ideas on how to resolve the vent situation here? It’s a medium brown Sondrio 100% linen jacket ... haven’t had any of my other jackets flare like this, so I don't think it's because my seat is excessively bulbous.

It seems to curl up, even when hung - maybe attributed to the material?

These are pictures from another user, who is having the same problem, and took much better photos than I.

 

[Despos]

@Rugger
Have you worn this brand suit before this?
Looks like the tapering on the sides is a bit too severe and too quick just below the sleeves. They may have stopped above the vents and not trimmed the jacket all the way to the hem. Cannot say from the pictures.
In all of your pictures your arms are extending or away from your body and doesn't help to see the jacket in a natural position.
Upper chest and back look border line too small.

 

[Despos]

Any ideas on how to resolve the vent situation here? It’s a medium brown Sondrio 100% linen jacket ... haven’t had any of my other jackets flare like this, so I don't think it's because my seat is excessively bulbous.

It seems to curl up, even when hung - maybe attributed to the material?

These are pictures from another user, who is having the same problem, and took much better photos than I.

View attachment 1368487 View attachment 1368486 View attachment 1368485

It's exaggerated by the characteristics of linen. The correction is done inside the vents by taping and drawing in the cloth just a touch. The lining has to be adjusted to be a bit taut and short to help the vents curl under and inward.
A quick, temporary fix is to use an iron and just place it on the inside of the vent along the outside edge. From the top of the vent to the hem. This will reshape it to hang better but unless you do the other things mentioned, this will return again.

 

[Rugger]

@Rugger
Have you worn this brand suit before this?
Looks like the tapering on the sides is a bit too severe and too quick just below the sleeves. They may have stopped above the vents and not trimmed the jacket all the way to the hem. Cannot say from the pictures.
In all of your pictures your arms are extending or away from your body and doesn't help to see the jacket in a natural position.
Upper chest and back look border line too small.

I have worn them before (suitsupply) and they generally fit me pretty well OTR.

I believe your assessment of stopping above the vents and not going all the way down is accurate. Would it be advisable to ask the tailor to go back and trim all the way down, or better to let out some of the sides to lessen the severity as you say? @Despos much appreciate you time as does everyone else who you offer your advice to

 

[Despos]

I have - and I believe your assessment of stopping above the vents and not going all the way down is accurate. Would it be advisable to ask the tailor to go back and trim all the way down, or better to let out some of the sides to lessen the severity as you say? @Despos much appreciate you time as does everyone else who you offer your advice to

You need both done, best I can see.