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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

1up

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Thanks! The current front rise is 10.5” - so maybe 11.5” ?
 

dauster

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So I got my RTW TF jacket altered and even though it is much more comfortable I feel like my alterations tailor removed the integrity of the TF look and made look like a random jacket. Can somebody please give me advice on what I should tell my tailor (Andreas Georges in SF)? I pointed out a few things already but he said the fabric has to settle, which seems to be code for “I don’t care and I need to deal with the next customer”: pics below first before and and then after:
 

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mux8

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So I got my RTW TF jacket altered and even though it is much more comfortable I feel like my alterations tailor removed the integrity of the TF look and made look like a random jacket. Can somebody please give me advice on what I should tell my tailor (Andreas Georges in SF)? I pointed out a few things already but he said the fabric has to settle, which seems to be code for “I don’t care and I need to deal with the next customer”: pics below first before and and then after:
What did the tailor do? Let out the center back? IMO looks good but I'm not a tailor
 

dauster

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What did the tailor do? Let out the center back? IMO looks good but I'm not a tailor
Fair enough, yes he let out the back, but I feel the signature TF look with the waist surpression is gone.
 

dauster

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Oooops I take everything back.... all my bad experiences apparently have turned me into a bitter person looks like the fabric did settle or maybe I was being paranoid and the Negroni helped either way I think the jacket looks pretty darn good now.
 

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monkk

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Hello Gents,

I have bespoke pants from travelling tailor, who sent finished pants and disappeared.
Pants looks good from font.
IMG-20190811-WA0002.jpg

Decent from side and back when I lean front/pull back raise up/chinc waist.
IMG-20190811-WA0014.jpg

IMG-20190811-WA0006.jpg

However in natural posture they bunch below seat.
IMG-20190811-WA0004.jpg

IMG-20190811-WA0003.jpg

Thinking taking them to local tailor. Any advice on alteration, since I don't have trustworthy tailor?

Cheers.
 

joorinainen

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Hello Gents,

I have bespoke pants from travelling tailor, who sent finished pants and disappeared.
Pants looks good from font.
View attachment 1332920
Decent from side and back when I lean front/pull back raise up/chinc waist.
View attachment 1332921
View attachment 1332922
However in natural posture they bunch below seat.
View attachment 1332923
View attachment 1332924
Thinking taking them to local tailor. Any advice on alteration, since I don't have trustworthy tailor?

Cheers.


Were they expensive? In my humble opinion your trousers look good and it's natural to have few creases here and there when you move.
 

dauster

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Were they expensive? In my humble opinion your trousers look good and it's natural to have few creases here and there when you move.
LOL what do you mean disappeared ? how much did you pay for them and more importantly who is the tailor?
 

Despos

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Seems risky to give this job to a tailor you don't trust. It's more about recutting the back than altering and will best be done by a tailor who can make a trouser over someone who has never made trousers.
The back will have compromises after the adjustment. If they do it properly they will take in the back on the outseam and this will bring the back pocket closer to the front/side seam. They will cut cloth from the top of the back part to raise the back part. Then let out and reshape the seat. This cleans up the wrinkles. The back pockets will now be closer to the waist band seam and will probably appear crooked. Closer to the seam on one end compared to the other. The back side strap will need to be removed and the waist band seam opened. Putting it back as well as before so it doesn't look altered is important.
After the adjustment a lot of people feel a pulling at the front of the knee when they walk. This is to be expected and you have to be accepting of this trade off. This effect happens more as a result of the alteration and isn't always the case if it is corrected during the cutting. This issue/fault isn't controlled by measurements. It's part of the DNA of a pattern and how the front and back align in regards to your posture.
 

Torulf

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Hi all,
Had a suit made by a local MTM shop, quite happy with the results but I am really confused about the placement of the patch pockets. I am tall, 6,4, and I'm afraid that this looks a bit stupid. Where would you place the patch pockets? Thanks a lot.
 

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Despos

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Hi all,
Had a suit made by a local MTM shop, quite happy with the results but I am really confused about the placement of the patch pockets. I am tall, 6,4, and I'm afraid that this looks a bit stupid. Where would you place the patch pockets? Thanks a lot.
It’s not the placement but the size. They would be better proportioned to the jacket if they were taller. Maybe .75 to 1”. Depending on the maker this may not be an option. Some MTM programs don’t make these modifications possible as they keep changes to a minimum to standardize cutting and production. Ask the maker what their policy is.
 

Torulf

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It’s not the placement but the size. They would be better proportioned to the jacket if they were taller. Maybe .75 to 1”. Depending on the maker this may not be an option. Some MTM programs don’t make these modifications possible as they keep changes to a minimum to standardize cutting and production. Ask the maker what their policy is.
Of course, this makes sense, thanks a big bunch.
 
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Hi all,
Got this Navy 3-piece Washington suit from Suitsupply. How's the fit, and are the sleeves a little short?

71781514_738931596519714_4453117943277944832_n.jpg
71467600_2191074911197961_5962711008366559232_n (2).jpg
 

monkk

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LOL what do you mean disappeared ? how much did you pay for them and more importantly who is the tailor?
Well,they did not disappeared, just stopped visiting city I live.
Bit disappointed of them being too 'italian' and selling as all is possible and alterations untill fully happy. On first trial arriving without anyone speaking other language apart Italian. And pants delivering when I cannot try them on, leaving them to pick up and later requesting to send via post to fix.
 
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