The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Llamanodrama]

Hello,

Got another MTM suit. This time, i find that there seems to be something weird with the shape of the hips. When buttoned, it looks fine but when unbuttoned, the bottom of the suit doesnt really drape down my thighs. It seems to the billowing outwards.

Is it due to too much waist suppression? Or maybe jacket needs to be longer since the buttoning point is quite low (some balance issue)?

Help will be appreciated! Apologies for the bad photos, its the best i can do atm but one shld be able to see whay im talking about?

Q

 

[1up]

Impossible to tell from those pictures, need better lighting/quality.

 

[Despos]

I think I'm possibly being a bit dim.

My thinking was that when you said 'That’s why you need the shoulder cut higher at the shoulder point. Normal approach to square shoulders is to lower the point at the neck'. Being a MtM company, I would imagine they adjust for square shoulders using the 'normal approach', so they would lower the neck to make the shoulder line more square. By raising the collar, it would be similar to having the 'Shoulder cut higher at the shoulder point'. Although, now I read that back to myself, that might just bring me right back to the beginning. I think I've got it completely wrong here!

I think I thought raising the collar would be the same as raising the neck point.

@Despos Edit: I re-read your responses, and I think I'm finally clear on what you're saying - sorry it took so long! I thought you meant just to raise the shoulder, but without lowering the point at the neck, but I believe you're saying do both:
View attachment 1325755

I’m explaining how things are done but wouldn’t advise you to try to apply any of this. Easy for your jacket to get worse before it gets better. I don’t know what has been done or how they work.

 

[Despos]

Hello,

Got another MTM suit. This time, i find that there seems to be something weird with the shape of the hips. When buttoned, it looks fine but when unbuttoned, the bottom of the suit doesnt really drape down my thighs. It seems to the billowing outwards.

Is it due to too much waist suppression? Or maybe jacket needs to be longer since the buttoning point is quite low (some balance issue)?

Help will be appreciated! Apologies for the bad photos, its the best i can do atm but one shld be able to see whay im talking about? View attachment 1325840 View attachment 1325841 Q

It’s normal. The jacket isn’t going to hug your body when it’s unbuttoned like it does when buttoned. Button position looks normal, Not too low

 

[CorozoButton]

I’m explaining how things are done but wouldn’t advise you to try to apply any of this. Easy for your jacket to get worse before it gets better. I don’t know what has been done or how they work.

I appreciate the knowledge. I completely understand though. Do you feel the collar fits right? If so, then I think it's just a case of asking them to adjust shoulder slope to what they feel is best. Beyond that, anything will just be a huge gamble! It's been a fun process anyway, and this jacket is definitely quite an unforgiving cloth! I think maybe for my shoulders, getting much better from MtM may be unlikely!

Thanks!

 

[Llamanodrama]

It’s normal. The jacket isn’t going to hug your body when it’s unbuttoned like it does when buttoned. Button position looks normal, Not too low

Thanks! I just noticed this on my other jacket as well when looking for clearer pics.

The only one that doesnt have it is one with very minimal waist suppression, almost like a sack suit, where it almost flows straight down.

 

[dauster]

What do you guys think about the fit of this RTW jacket? Please don’t comment on pants and hair I know they are both not perfect.
Jacket was so cheap and i could not pass up the chance to buy but could still return it. Obviously sleeves need adjustment and back is tight. Anything else I am missing ?

 

[gianm]

Is it possible to tweak the quarters of a sportcoat? I'm maybe interested in opening them up a bit.

 

[papado]

What do you guys think about the fit of this RTW jacket? Please don’t comment on pants and hair I know they are both not perfect.
Jacket was so cheap and i could not pass up the chance to buy but could still return it. Obviously sleeves need adjustment and back is tight. Anything else I am missing ?

Waist is a tad bit tight; but as I'm guessing this is Tom Ford (apologies if I'm wrong) you can almost get away with it because that's his vision/style. If you have a good tailor who can just let it out a tiny tiny bit then you could still keep the shape but give yourself a little room to breathe. My TF suit is similar where it's borderline too snug but it also helps with the signature silhouette.

What color is it? It looks grey which is my only concern as I don't like grey odd jackets and I don't think the forum does much either.

 

[dauster]

Waist is a tad bit tight; but as I'm guessing this is Tom Ford (apologies if I'm wrong) you can almost get away with it because that's his vision/style. If you have a good tailor who can just let it out a tiny tiny bit then you could still keep the shape but give yourself a little room to breathe. My TF suit is similar where it's borderline too snug but it also helps with the signature silhouette.

What color is it? It looks grey which is my only concern as I don't like grey odd jackets and I don't think the forum does much either.

Yeah it’s TF, I like the fabric/color it’s like a black/ grey houndstooth. We will see how it turns out, brought to my tailor today to let it out a bit... didn’t know “the forum” doesn’t like grey odd jackets.. where did that come from?

 

[Despos]

Yeah it’s TF, I like the fabric/color it’s like a black/ grey houndstooth. We will see how it turns out, brought to my tailor today to let it out a bit... didn’t know “the forum” doesn’t like grey odd jackets.. where did that come from?

The TF jacket has a better balance than the previous two jackets you posted. The fronts hike up on those and the TF does not. Side Vents fall better on the TF as well.
Difficult to combine a trouser color with grey jackets so they aren’t easy to wear.

 

[Llamanodrama]

Need some advise on letting out the waist of a jacket.

The jacket a little bit snug on the button where it is starting to form a little bit of an "x" due to me putting on weight. The jacket in question is the one which i posted in this thread 2 days back. I have attached another clearer pic with the X.

My tailor suggested letting out the side seams at the front by half an inch. My questions are

1) Is the waist suppression technique suggested correct? And

2) is half inch going to be significant enough to have an effect on the silhoutte?

Thanks for your help! It is a nice jacket and I am trying to make it fit a little better. Though I have half a mind to leave it as it is and cut back on my binge eating.

 

[alfredt]

Can you guys help me identify what is causing the bunching behind the thigh with these Luxire heavy flannel trousers?



Personally I believed the issue to be related to the back rise and thought is would be solved by decreasing the back rise from the waistband while letting out the back rise from the crotch seam. However Luxire suggests the following:

The solution for back bunching is to Decrease thigh at outseam by 0.5" in circumference and decrease inseam at crotch 0.5". The back rise seems fine

I see how this would mitigate some of the symtoms but fail to see how it solves the issue. What do you guys think?

 

[dauster]

The TF jacket has a better balance than the previous two jackets you posted. The fronts hike up on those and the TF does not. Side Vents fall better on the TF as well.
Difficult to combine a trouser color with grey jackets so they aren’t easy to wear.

Ah good point on the difficulty of combining the grey jacket with trousers... something I need to look into...

 

[1up]

I sent in these blue wool pants for Luxire to replicate (albeit slimmer than SF approved, but I enjoy this type of fit).

The replication of these Drago Birdseye (250gsm) pants is the exact same, but doesn't quite drape as nicely and I have significant bunching/twisting in places, I'm sure attributed to a lighter fabric.

2 questions:

1) What can I get a tailor to improve with these current pants (shorten length? 1"? 2"?)

2) What recommendations for my next iteration (little tight in the seat)