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If I understand your comments, this jacket was sent to you to analyze the fit so you can place an order? The jacket is not made from your measurements?Hi everyone,
Been refining my MtM pattern, and I'm wondering if anyone can advise on some creasing/breaking on the right hand side by my armpit. I think it's possibly to do with my dropped shoulder, although I think I also have forward shoulders, so that may contribute. It's not that easy to photograph, and does look worse in real life. Also, possibly some sleeve pitch issues? Hopefully Despos may have some insight! I've put a main picture in, and attached quite a few, including some without the jacket in case it helps with figuration etc. At the moment, I have both my shoulders set to slightly square, and also slight forward shoulder, as well as a slightly prominent chest. Any other fit advice/critique welcome too!
Ps. Please ignore the styling, it's just a test garment for fit and to try out various different styling options (I would not actually order a worsted 3r2 wide peak lapel with patch pockets currently).
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Your shoulders are difficult to fit. Do you take an over arm and a chest measurement? Curious what those two measurements are.
The shoulders on this jacket aren’t cut square enough and the armhole shape is distorted. You need the armhole wider front to back by scooping out the front of the armhole. When I make a jacket pattern the angle and amount of curve of the armhole changes according the chest shape and depth. It requires crooking or straightening the shoulder to adjust the line of the armhole. Then adjust the sleeve to fit into the armhole.This isn’t something easily done or communicated on a MTM jacket.
If the shoulder slope is cut right and the shape of the armhole is correct for the shape of your chest and back, you won’t have this issue.
Only way I know how to answer because when I look to alter something I try to see how I would adjust the cutting if I was making it.