The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[dauster]

Not nearly high enough, but point well taken. VERY good, outside of that.

length is obviously subjective... I would say this more conservative but the current trend is definitively to show more sock

 

[Alocin]

Hello style forum,

Been lurking for a while and thought it was finally time to come out of the woodwork. I'm getting married in 3 weeks time and would like some feedback on my fitting today. Went for a herringbone tweed 13oz as I am getting married in a country manor.

Firstly I apologise for the quality of picture and I did not realise my shirt was so all over the place and I didn't pull the sleeves down properly. I am sorry

The tailor and I agreed today that the waist is a bit tight so needs letting out, you can see it pulling tight with the button done up. The suit jacket is also a bit loose around the collar which he said he is able to address. There is some bunching of the material on the upper back which I also pointed out to him today.

I don't have to wear suits often so struggle with fit sometimes. I feel like the trousers are also a bit long do you gents agree? What else should I be looking at/ asking.

Really stressing about this as this has unfortunately had to be done pretty last minute and in all fairness I only went for my initial measuring 4 weeks ago.

Thanks for any feedback in advance View attachment 1318550 View attachment 1318551 View attachment 1318552 View attachment 1318553

I am by no means a tailor, but the pants seem a little too slim. What is the leg opening if you recall?

Not sure if it is the bunching of excess fabric but your feet look massive in comparison to your legs.

But if you are comfortable and don’t feel any tugging in the thighs or seat then I envy you and it is ultimately taste in my part.

 

[bmathe02]

Hi tailors and enthusiasts,
I have a small blemish of sorts just below the waist band center rear on my suit pants. I was wondering is there a way I can mask this with the extra fabric from the pant hems. For example place a "patch" as outlined in red...... I am thinking if this added fabric was stitched cleanly it would look like it was part of the design. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[NearlyWedPanic]

I am by no means a tailor, but the pants seem a little too slim. What is the leg opening if you recall?

Not sure if it is the bunching of excess fabric but your feet look massive in comparison to your legs.

But if you are comfortable and don’t feel any tugging in the thighs or seat then I envy you and it is ultimately taste in my part.

Hello Alocin,

Thank you as well for taking the time to offer feedback. As somebody with 0 suit wearing experience this has been pretty difficult. The trousers were very comfortable and I experienced no tugging whilst moving or sitting. I don't recall the leg opening. I must admit as a point of personal preference I do prefer trousers on the slimmer side. I take your point on board though and it'll be something to bare in mind for future suits perhaps.

Looks like the general consensus is trousers are to long so I shall request length is worked on. Thank you all

 

[amiga505]

Hi tailors and enthusiasts,
I have a small blemish of sorts just below the waist band center rear on my suit pants. I was wondering is there a way I can mask this with the extra fabric from the pant hems. For example place a "patch" as outlined in red...... I am thinking if this added fabric was stitched cleanly it would look like it was part of the design. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

View attachment 1318626

a wild idea - if you have enough fabric, perhaps a back adjuster can be put there? it will cover the area...

 

[amiga505]

I am hoping to get some insight regarding length and fit here.

The first photo is my S&M 38R slim moleskin. While the 2nd photo is a 40R extra slim from SuSu. The 2nd is a bit longer in length, but is it too long?


View attachment 1317853
View attachment 1317854 View attachment 1317856 View attachment 1317857

not a tailor, but both jackets look great to me. first one is perhaps on the more 'modern' side as far as the length of sleeves and back is concerned, the second one is more on the 'classic' side.

 

[Megakurth]

Hello:

I’ve had a strange issue with a number of my jackets having a roll/rumple/“wave” on some of the collar on my lapels. I’m wondering if this is a tailor issue or an issue due to a poor “press” (I’m not sure my dry cleaner would naturally out the emphasis into more “heavily” pressing that area)

Thank you.

 

[Rugger]

I think that has everything to do with your body type, in particular your traps. They sit too high to your ears and the fabric isn't able to drape on the expected slope, so it bunches up and you get the waves. I'm an admitted fairly ignorant amateur, but not sue what a tailor could do - might be something that the cut and design of the actual suit would have to address.

 

[Megakurth]

I think that has everything to do with your body type, in particular your traps. They sit too high to your ears and the fabric isn't able to drape on the expected slope, so it bunches up and you get the waves. I'm an admitted fairly ignorant amateur, but not sue what a tailor could do - might be something that the cut and design of the actual suit would have to address.

Thanks for the feedback. My suitmaker couldn’t completely tell from the photos, but offered to take a look and see what they could do, but figured I’d see what I could do before sending overseas. I plan to stop by my local tailor Wazin who makes suits himself to see if he has any thoughts. I guess I hadn’t noticed, but taking a look at some of my MTM suits from other makers that haven’t been recently pressed, I notice the same issue. In the short term, I guess the best solution is wear it until it furls and give it a retouch press on the underside of the collar every so often?

 

[Despos]

Hi tailors and enthusiasts,
I have a small blemish of sorts just below the waist band center rear on my suit pants. I was wondering is there a way I can mask this with the extra fabric from the pant hems. For example place a "patch" as outlined in red...... I am thinking if this added fabric was stitched cleanly it would look like it was part of the design. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

View attachment 1318626

The blemish on the cloth is less noticeable than the patch would be. If you want it to disappear, open the waistband seam and lower the waistband enough to take the spot into the outlet seam.

 

[Despos]

Hello:

I’ve had a strange issue with a number of my jackets having a roll/rumple/“wave” on some of the collar on my lapels. I’m wondering if this is a tailor issue or an issue due to a poor “press” (I’m not sure my dry cleaner would naturally out the emphasis into more “heavily” pressing that area)
View attachment 1319616
View attachment 1319617
View attachment 1319618
View attachment 1319624

Thank you.

The collar is too short. You can tell it is short by how the lapel rolls past the button and buttonhole when the jacket is unbuttoned. Since the collar is too short and doesn’t curve around your neck in a natural, relaxed way, the pressure is forcing the collar to move upwards instead of laying flat and this causes the wrinkles on the collar. I'm talking about the outer edge of the collar. It is shorter than the length needed to curve around the neck.
If there are outlets of cloth at both ends of the collar you only need to replace the under collar and reuse the old collar. Look under the collar at both ends to find these outlets.
Pressing won't resolve this. Dry cleaners almost never press the collar, they only steam it. You really don’t want a dry cleaner to press it unless they are qualified and know how, most don’t know how.

 

[bmathe02]

The blemish on the cloth is less noticeable than the patch would be. If you want it to disappear, open the waistband seam and lower the waistband enough to take the spot into the outlet seam.

Thanks Despos. My local Tailor said the same thing. So much simpler and elegant.
Thanks.

 

[Megakurth]

The collar is too short. You can tell it is short by how the lapel rolls past the button and buttonhole when the jacket is unbuttoned. Since the collar is too short and doesn’t curve around your neck in a natural, relaxed way, the pressure is forcing the collar to move upwards instead of laying flat and this causes the wrinkles on the collar. I'm talking about the outer edge of the collar. It is shorter than the length needed to curve around the neck.
If there are outlets of cloth at both ends of the collar you only need to replace the under collar and reuse the old collar. Look under the collar at both ends to find these outlets.
Pressing won't resolve this. Dry cleaners almost never press the collar, they only steam it. You really don’t want a dry cleaner to press it unless they are qualified and know how, most don’t know how.

@Despos thank you for the insight. It will be helpful when I discuss it with my tailor (his assistant didn’t seem to understand what I meant and essentially just repressed it). How common/difficult is this alteration?

 

[Despos]

It's not an alteration. It's taking the collar off and remaking it to the proper size and shape for you. Easiest way to communicate this is to hold a towel and pull on both ends. The tension creates soft rolling in the towel. That is what is happening to your collar. The outer circumference of the collar is shorter than the matching/underlying circumference around your neck and shoulder. This tension makes the collar want to ride up because as you move upwards on your neck the circumference is smaller. Since the collar cannot rise up you have these wrinkles in the cloth. Pressing is temporary. A new collar will fix it. It will also make the front of the jacket fall more natural and look better.

 

[tman87]

Not a tailor but the sleeves look short. They are sitting at your wrist while unfastened. Should be at least another 1-1.5” longer to minimize the sleeves riding up your arm when you raise your arm. The cuff diameter should be narrow enough to prevent the sleeves from dropping below your wrist when fastened.

So I'm convinced that I need to go to from at least a 33 to a 34. That would probably put me at 1.5-2" from the V or a little short of the thumb knuckle. Should I be considering 35 given supposed shrinkage? I'm going to buy a barrel cuff rather than French (really just wanted to check out the fit) and likely wear it without a jacket at times. Would that be too much material in the arms?