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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 13, 2011
    Location:
    Manhattan
    

    more pictures (this time with no undershirt but not wearing a proper dress shirt). does the length/shoulder width look ok now? what about the lapels?

    front:
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    side:
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    thanks!
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yeeth, the wrinkles and pulling on the right side of the jacket are from your low right shoulder. Jacket is pulling a little from the vents still being tacked closed. The shoulders are a little wide.
    These pictures show the jacket more clearly but pictures from a distance and full length shots, no jeans and proper shirt to assess the length.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2012
  3. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

    Messages:
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    Madrid
    Hello,

    Wondering if anything could be done to improve the fit on these RTW trousers? They seem a bit tight around the lower abdomen area (waist is fine), but a size bigger leaves the seat too roomy. The drape from the back is a bit messed up, too.

    Don't worry about the length, I like no break on cuffed pants and I can always wear them just a little bit lower :)

    Thank you.

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    Last edited: Oct 18, 2012
  4. filmguy

    filmguy New Member

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    4
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    Sep 27, 2012
    Location:
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Hey all,

    I just graduated from college and I'm purchasing my first "real suit." I found this Hickey Freeman at a good price. It's a 40S. Is the fit correct on the shoulders or is it slightly off? Thanks so much!

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  5. ZirconiumZephyr

    ZirconiumZephyr Well-Known Member

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    Jun 12, 2012
    looking to get some opinions of fit again.

    This is a rather shoddy fused fashion brand suit (Saba) but I'm just looking to get the fit tweaked so I have a better reference suit.

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    I'm not to worried about the waist at the back, thing that might just need straigtening out.

    There seems to be a bit of extra fabric rippling under the collar (this means collar needs to come down right?

    Also, can anyone comment on the shoulders, the feel snug but have that odd indent at the top.
     
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Texas.
    Just had a fantastic alterations experience...previously I had gone to a regular tailor to get stuff altered and wasn't super happy with the result (not displeased). A friend who spends a lot of money on clothes (which says nothing about his taste, only that recommendations he makes aren't constrained by price) suggested I go to his tailor who just does alterations and nothing else.

    So I haven't gotten the jackets back...I just dropped them off an hour ago, so I'll be posting here in two weeks...but am really happy with the confidence these people exuded when dealing with me. Mind you, I had to speak in Korean (which I can barely do), but they had no qualms basically treating me as a mannequin, lifting my arms, moving me around, etc, as they needed to do their job.

    Don't know about the price though. Brought in two jackets, one needing some major work (hence the decision to try to upgrade tailors for alterations) and the other re-lining. The alterations being made:
    the Hugo Boss (houndstooth, so hopefully that will hide any unevenness if there is any):
    Waist suppression
    Convert padded shoulders into soft shoulders
    Lengthen the sleeves
    Narrow the sleeves
    Take the shoulders in

    Random vintage canvas suit I got from capnwes:
    New lining (rayon)
    New buttons

    They initially wanted about $220 dollars (250,000 won), but at showing reluctance in getting the jacket re-lined (after they had already cut it up a bit to see the contstruction), they went down to around $185.

    So assuming they live up to their reputation, is $185 within the range of reasonable for the work I am having done?
     
  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks huge in the shoulders. Congratulations on your graduation and good luck!


    You should worry about all of it. Shoulders look to have crazy extension, chest is too small causing lapels to bow, and it doesn't fit at the waist.
     
  8. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    How can you tell when the lapels are blowing?

    What does 'crazy extension' in the shoulders mean?

    Do you mean his suit is too loose in the waist?

    I am not questioning what you have said, I am trying to understand what you have said.
     
  9. bemow

    bemow Member

    Messages:
    24
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    Jan 29, 2011
    Hello guys
    Could you please suggest which alterations should I make to this suit?
    What about the sleeve and trousers length?
    I'm undergrad senior looking for job, so this suit is for interviews.
    And what do you think about the tie?
    Thanks.

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    Last edited: Oct 19, 2012
  10. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    Dang, that looks pretty good to me.

    Maybe a smidge shorter on the sleeves so we can see some cuff?
     
  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Lapels: In a head-on shot, the lapels should make a "V" with straight sides. In your picture, the sides of the "V" are curving.

    Shoulders: The shoulder of the coat appears to extend well beyond where your shoulder ends.

    Waist: Looks too tight to me.
     
  12. ZirconiumZephyr

    ZirconiumZephyr Well-Known Member

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    Jun 12, 2012
    Yes, what is it about the lapels that suggests they are bowing? They certainly don't feel tight at all.

    I do agree the back looks horrendous, never noticed it until I got the pictures taken. Somewhat less than impressed as my local tailor suggested it should be taken it....
     
  13. ZirconiumZephyr

    ZirconiumZephyr Well-Known Member

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    Jun 12, 2012
    gah sorry, mistimed that reply.

    Thanks for your comments, helpful to know where to proceed next...

    Waist area confuses me a little, there is no pulling at the button (that I can see) but it does look funny at the back. Can this be due to it being to small around the hip area but not at buttoning point?
     
  14. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    It isn't me - it is another user. I am here to learn about how the suit should fit.

    I can't really see what you are saying with the blowing lapels - they don't seem to be bending at all.

    The shoulders do look big.

    Waist could be too tight.
     
  15. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    (edited - is there any way to delete a post?)
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2012
  16. Semi Fly

    Semi Fly Active Member

    Messages:
    40
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    Sep 28, 2012
    Hey gents, need advise on two more suits: The navy one is the Benjamin Classico suit from ehaberdasher.com here on this forum. This suit is nicer than the Saks 5th I purchased a few weeks ago, which will be returned. The second suit is from CK. I picked it up for >$200 for a few summer weddings. I will likely get this suit altered to test out a tailor before having the navy suit tailored. As always, thanks in advance! PS: Sorry about the funky color - can't believe it's almost Nov.


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  17. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2011
    Location:
    Manhattan
    


    hm i'm assuming there's no cheap way to fix the wrinkles then, and it's more to do with my posture than the jacket itself?

    are the shoulders too wide? I have narrow shoulders so I was looking for a little extension, but is this too much?

    also i'd love an objective take on the lapels. does it look too dated even with the high gorge and silhouette of the suit? does it fit my smallish frame (i'm 5'7")?

    i guess my main concern now is whether the imperfections look fixable/acceptable, because i'm trying to decide if i should keep or return this...

    thanks!

    front:
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    side:
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    back:
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    Last edited: Oct 20, 2012
  18. kanedamike

    kanedamike Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2012
    Hi all,

    I went to Indochino's traveling tailor when they came to SF and let them take my measurements, so this is the result. I took is to a tailor and he said the jacket is a size to small for me. I know the sleeve length is a little short too. I feel like I need to bring out the shoulders more, and I don't know if its just me, but it looks kind of funny when buttoned.

    Does anyone have any recommendations on measurements to change for:

    Jacket Length?
    Chest Size?
    Stomach Size?
    Shoulder Size?

    I was going to add 0.5" to the sleeve length.

    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!

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  19. PattyC

    PattyC Senior member

    Messages:
    422
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    Feb 1, 2009
    Can anything be done to lapels that won't lay flat? Everything else fits, and while sizing up works, the shoulders are a spot too big and everything else is billowy. What do I do?
     
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mar 16, 2006
    

    Would take the suit to a tailor to discern the causes of the collar issue. Haven't ever seen a jacket collar sit higher than the shirt collar. Maybe it's the way you put the jacket on or maybe it's a more serious matter. Jacket seems short. Sleeves aren't too wide. Trouser looks snug in the thigh area and has the ubiquitous long back rise that causes wrinkles on the back part.
     

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