The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    button the shirt collar.
    you do have aright low shoulder. the waist and seat are too tight in back.
    letting these out will allow the jackets back to drop down and not look so short.
    there is some excess width across the upper back that could be taken in.
     


  2. Jam74

    Jam74 Member

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    No, I have skinny calfs. They are "tailored straight legs" so the seat and thighs are fine, but the bottom get wide.
     


  3. thomaspaine

    thomaspaine Senior member

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    Picked up this Black Fleece suit and blazer. Had the sleeves shortened on the jackets, and pants hemmed and tapered. I'm realizing now that the jackets are undarted and a little boxy. I like a very slim fit, so I was wondering if it's possible and/or worth it to add front darts? Should I get the waist suppressed or leave it as is? Thanks!

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  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i asked about the calf because you mentioned the calf as some sort of limitation.

    if the legs come down straight to the calf then come in at the bottom its going to look strange.
    the bottom will come in narrow then balloon out at the calf.
    properly the bottom can come in as you wish. but from that point going up the leg should
    gradually taper outward to where it blends in with the old lines. be it at the calf or above that point.
    consult with your tailor on this.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2012


  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yea SB i have seen that.
    they cut off the bottom hem and sew it back on, without opening
    the chain stitched hem.
    it looks to me like a "mickey mouse" operation.
     


  6. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    I can imagine this only being an option if you keep them cuffed, so the seam is concealed, otherwise it's gonna look very weird.
     


  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if the legs are worn straight down there is a seam around the bottom. usually neatly done.
    but if the legs are cuffed up then the seam allowance that is inside shows outside.

    this whole thing about the chain stitch is a great money maker for some people.
    if i were lucky enough to find an old chain stitch machine i would be making out like crazy.
    or, and if i were not retired, i too would be cutting off and sewing on bottoms..
     


  8. Liam O

    Liam O Senior member

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    bespoke jacket (not worried about the pants ATM).
    Fit is pretty god awful, having the tailor alter it again next tuesday. chest and waist need taken in, cuffs need hemmed about 3/8", and I feel like the sleeves need to be narrowed a bit and the armholes need to be pulled up a little bit because the openings are about a third the height of the jacket.

    any other feedback would be appreciated.

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  9. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Senior member

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    Hi guys,

    I was hoping you can comment on the fit of this suit jacket and how much I should/need to do with it. I generally like fairly slim fit suits.

    It's a YSL suit that I picked up for half price at Mr Porter's recent sale (http://www.mrporter.com/product/174959) - great suit (36R), great material and full-canvassed construction, so I want to keep it, but I feel like:

    1) Arms/shoulders are too baggy
    2) Bit too long
    3) Shoulders may be too wide

    Pants fit fantastic so no worries there. Any feedback would be appreciated.

    If the above can be remedied pretty easily, I'll get a good tailor in HKG to fix it, otherwise I'll refund it. Thanks for your help in advance, and apologies for the photos (only have a phone camera at the moment).

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  10. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Not if the seam is further from the end of the leg than the cuff is wide. Though that's probably not how they actually do it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2012


  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you are right there. but the seam is usually done very close to the bottom.
    that is unless the customer asks for it to be done otherwise.
    if the permanent cuff is done, and one wants to change to a regular
    bottom then the legs length will be too short.

    if being authentic is so important, then the job should be done right.
    if the jean has a seam there it is no longer authentic.

    in many large cities there are shops that have a chain stitch machine.
    if one is not available there are some on the net that will do it by mail.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2012


  12. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hi liam

    i hope that its a made to measure and not really bespoke.
    your right its pretty bad. there is nothing that can be done to raise the armholes.
    there is so much that needs to be done that it will never be right.
    but your tailor may differ, and might try.

    an after thought. are you sure that its the one you ordered?
    do you think its someone else coat.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2012


  13. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Hello!

    This suit was a recent MtM attempt. Could you please help me with some detailed feedback? I'm noticing a lot of problems (especially balances) but I can't explain what they are. I'd appreciate comments on the needed fixes for the next suit.
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    My own questions:
    2. Looking from the back, I don't like how the sleeves bulge outwards. This is apparent in many of my off-the-rack suits. How can this be fixed?
    5. Would you advise a slightly lower buttoning point? (1~1.5cm)
    6. Back rolls- how to fix?
    7. Will decreasing the back rise make trousers fit better?

    Huge, huge thanks in advance!
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012


  14. Mikael

    Mikael Well-Known Member

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    Tried to take better pictures of the charcoal suit in Napoli fit, which seemed the best fit in my opinion. Immediate question: is the suit too small for me? If not, what could be done to improve the fit (apart from shortening the pants which are obviously too long)?
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  15. SackSuitLover

    SackSuitLover Well-Known Member

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    Hi all.
    I'm italian, so sorry for my english.
    This is a very interesting forum. But i think that the true classics and permanent fashion (and not momentary fashion) are a little subdued.
    Too much short jackets, narrow trousers, jackets with the botton to use too much above the natural waist!! Short sleeves and so on and so on....
    Permanent fashion in my opinion is about comfort, elegance. A suit, a jacket and trousers must dress not force someone' body.
    In the pics above of LIAM O i see a beautiful green color. I see a right jacket in the overall lenght, good sleevesm and the second button a little above the natural waist.
    Voto: discreet/good
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2012


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