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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OldManMachine

    OldManMachine Well-Known Member

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    I just received my Benjamin Sartorial Classico in 38S. I would appreciate any help I can get regarding the fit. Hoping to get some help from the more experienced members here if I have the green light to bring this to a tailor to get altered (assuming that this is a suit worth keeping). The shirt that I'm wearing is a Brooks Brothers Non-Iron Slim Fit with a standard classic collar point (14-1/2; 32)

    1)My main concern is the exposure of the shirt collar. Does it seem normal or would it be too much as the suit jacket sits a bit low. I do notice a slight collar gap, is this fixable?
    2) I'm not very experienced as this is my 2nd suit, but would the distance between the lapel and point of the shirt collar be an issue or sign of improper fitment?

    I know the pants will require hemming as well as shortening of the jacket sleeves. What recommendations would you suggest I pass along to my tailor to get done?

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    Last edited: Sep 28, 2012
  2. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

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    Assuming I need a full on shoulder reoconstructing for this MTM suit? Good thing is my guy is covering all alteration costs... not sure if it's poor measurements or maybe just that I have very uneven shoulders...

    Any advice would be much appreciated, but pretty sure I'm headed toward reconstructing the shoulder. I actually like the way the rest of the suit fits in terms of length, tapered to the body, etc (I've since shortened the pants a little so the break isn't as bad as the pictures below)... but I'll take any advice from the experts




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    Last edited: Sep 29, 2012
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The last close up pictures are the only helpful pictures and reveal more issues. There is some twist in the shoulder. Besides narrowing the shoulder width, it looks like you may have to square the shoulder and put more fullness over the shoulder blades.You want to find a very good tailor that can refit and fit and remake the shoulder and then fit and recut the sleeves. You need workmanship that is at a higher level than the suit is made to correct this.

    Are these the same pictures you first posted or are these after they worked on the suit?
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is a tough one. There is a roll under the collar which most tailors would square the back shoulder and lower the collar to correct and that would make the relation of jacket to shirt collar worse. From the back view it shows the jacket hanging up on your shoulder blades, creating a hollow between the blades and contributing to the roll of cloth under the collar. I would square the front shoulder, distribute more fullness over the back part and leave the collar where it is. Maybe take in the center back seam 1/4". Squaring the front shoulder will help raise the collar in the back. All may be too technical but if you are in an area and can find a tailor experienced in making jackets, he can help you. The back is too big under the arms and could be taken in a bit thru the waist

    The trouser waist seems too loose, have it taken in.

    Would suggest trying other brands to see if these issues only show up with this maker. If you can avoid alterations like this, it's much better.
     
  5. OldManMachine

    OldManMachine Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the advice and recommendations Despos, your help is greatly appreciated. I think I will follow through on your suggestion of trying other brands to see if the issue still exist. Because I'm inexperienced, I'm afraid to request the type of technical alterations that you have mentioned above.

    I plan to use the measurements from this existing suit as a point of reference when searching for my next suit. A couple of questions if you don't mind answering:
    1) Do you think I made the correction sizing selection of a 38S? or should I have gone down to a 36S?
    2) Do the shoulders fit? The length of the shoulder from the sizing sheet is 17.6"
    3) Did you see any issues regarding the collar gap and exposed shirt collar? Would a smaller size fixed this issue?

    Thank you again!
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A 38 will fit differently from other makers, some will be looser and others may be more fitted. It's by design of the maker. Trying them on is the best way to know what you like and works best for you. You may be a 38 in one brand, 40 in another and 36 somewhere else.

    Shoulders are close enough to compare using this measurement.

    The collar is a recurring issue with this brand. Until you try others, it's unknown if other jackets will fit you the same way.
     
  7. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

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    The last 2 pics are the ones after one tailor tried just trimming the shoulders (it obviously did nothing...)
    So, we're taking it to an Italian tailor to reconstruct the shoulder on Monday. Here's a few more pics of how the suit looks currently as well (sorry, no idea why some are rotated). I don't really mind anything but the left shoulder to be honest. I mean is this a me issue? Meaning, do I just have really uneven shoulders? Or do you think this was a measurement issue? (the guy took all my measurements) It looks like the left shoulder is easily an inch too long.


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  8. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    Edit: Please see next page for new fit pics with a better-fitting shirt.


    This is my latest MTM creation from Tony Paranzino. I can see now that my shirt sleeves are too long and are going to make it difficult to judge jacket sleeve length. Setting that aside, what tweaks would you gentlemen recommend for my next MTM jacket from Tony -- or for this jacket, for that matter?

    Does anyone think that the jacket's collar should stand up a little taller against the back of my neck?

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    That's a breeze blowing the left vent open.

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    Last edited: Sep 30, 2012
  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think is one of the best-fitting coats you've shown us! I look forward to seeing how you work it into your daily rotation.

    The sleeve length looks spot-on to me. Move the button on that barrel cuff, and you're cookin' with gas.
     
  10. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    I agree, sb. I think Tony's got me pretty well dialed in now.



    I'm not following you here. Please elaborate.
     
  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oh, if you move the button on the shirt's cuff to narrow the circumference of the cuff when buttoned, it will sit higher on your wrist. Then Robert is your father's brother.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    TB, I think the back could be cleaned up a little, probably an easy alteration. Other than that I think it looks awesome, congrats!
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    Cross-posted from the English American Tailoring thread; I would appreciate some feedback.

     
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Thread, I like the overall look. Grey tweed + denim is probably my fall weekend combo.

    The quarters are too closed. That's stylistic, not fit-ilistic but I'm still correct in saying that.

    Are you standing more naturally in the first or second side pic? First and you're golden, second and the sleeve pitch is quite a bit off.

    Something is off with the shoulders in the back shot. I assume that you're pushing your shoulders back more than normal to have good posture on the internets and the jacket is actually fine. If it were like that normally, you'd feel a bit of tightness there.
     
  15. swimgood

    swimgood Member

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    Any thoughts on this? I'll be in my tailor's area on tuesday and wanna drop it off then if the suit should be kept/doesn't require extreme fixes. Thanks
     
  16. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    Here are some pics with a better-fitting shirt. Jacket sleeves look just a shade too short to me, especially the right sleeve, and the collar height seems a little low at the back of the neck. I know it's a nit-pic, but am I wrong?

    Any observations at all would be greatly appreciated.

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  17. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Yea Thread - sleeve pitch is off and he made the jacket as if you were stooped over when you're not.

    I'd shorten the jacket a tad and definitely open up the quarters.
     
  18. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    I think you're standing slightly lower on one side. Look at your knees in the pic. Or look at the board at shoulder level in the back pic. One side you're a touch higher then the other.

    The slight tilt might be making the sleeves look slightly longer/shorter.
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just needs the basic adjustments. Nothing is off in an extreme manner.
     
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Balance is good. You could have the collar raised up to 3/8" Back has unusual diagonal fullness lines causing weird wrinkles. Would slope the back shoulder to clean up the blades and this will help to raise the collar. You can only slope the shoulder more on this jacket because there is no outlet on the back shoulder but on the next jacket, have the collar raised 3/8" as well as the neck point on the shoulder line. This will correct the shoulder slope and collar issue.

    Sleeves need to be reshaped and sized to the armhole.

    I don't like to judge jacket length when wearing jeans but you could have the jacket made shorter anywhere form 1/2 to 1" and the tailor could open the line of the front panels at the same time. You will look fine with a shorter jacket and it would reduce the space between the hem and the patch pocket. As is, the patch pocket looks too small for the size of the jacket and located too far from the hem.
    Have the front button moved. It is off and causing a bit of pull. They may not have cut enough to adjust for your low shoulder.
     
    1 person likes this.

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