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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.
Isn't that what Anderson and Sheppard claims makes their arm/sleeve movement so great?
You mean intentional divoting to enhance movement?
Haha, no, the whole bigger sleeve smaller armhole thing.
The only time a sleeve is not cut bigger than the armhole is on a shirt because there is no fullness sewn into a shirt sleeve. It is sewn even with the armhole.
Jacket sleeves are cut on average 2 3/4" larger than the armhole and the fullness is basted in and distributed around the armhole. More in some areas and less in others. Larger armholes and heavier cloth can accept more fullness. Light weight cloths need less.It's just the way it is done and not unique to any tailoring firm. I find their comments amusing if not irrelevant.
Well, the sleeve circumference is always a certain amount larger than the arm-hole and is fulled in when the sleeve is attached. The amount varies between houses (and some types of fabric can be shrunk more than others). The extra height in the sleeve-cap which can create a divot is a separate thing.
Chris thank you for your great explanation. The sleeve does feel tight and it seems too narrow for the armhole as you said. I will address this issue to the maker. Thanks again for your great help!
Hey, thanks for the thread, this has been a great read before I joined SF. Decided to make it official to ask this question. Unfortunately, these pictures are all I have and there is a bit of backstory: Tried this suit on (these pics are right off the hanger, prior to any adjustments made), liked it better than anything else I'd found in my search, and decided to go for it. After some tailoring by the guy who was selling me the suit, I tried it on again and I'm convinced it's too small (no pictures, and I hardly need feedback on whether or not it's small - the button practically screams to be let loose and the vents flare enough to make me look like a blue (or in this case, a grey?) jay coming in for a landing..). So my question here is, how well did it fit before the tailoring shenanigans? I think the more fashion forward/edgy store owner/tailor got a bit overzealous with the waist suppression etc. but I can't know for certain unless I have a basis for how well the original, untouched suit fit.
Also, you can't tell in these pictures but there is now some funny indenting on the side of my shoulders towards the top, and I doubt it was there before cutting. Is this a sign to run away, or a reversible effect of over-tailoring? In the picture, there seems to be a lot of rippling near the armhole on the dorsal side. Result of incorrect armhole pitch? Could this also be affecting the shoulder indents and the current feeling that my shoulders hit too far forward when I put the jacket on? What's the solution for all this? EDIT: I just read a recent post re: shoulder divots, my problem is exactly that but far more pronounced. Trouble is, it wasn't like that in these pictures...
Again, I apologize for the mediocre quality of the photos, they're really all I have. Note that I am not wearing the trousers.. xD clearly, I anticipated needing an SF review well in advance. Hoorah, planning. I also apologize for my technological ineptitude that is directly responsible for the lack of proper vertical orientation in the pictures...
Is there anything else about this suit I should be watching out for? I know this isn't much to go with, but any help would be very, very much appreciated. It is my first suit, and I'm trying to get more right than wrong on the first time around.
Additionally: I do have the option to back out, the guy's being really nice and offered to refund my $ if we couldn't make it work, so be as critical as possible. To give you an idea, I paid 350, tailoring included. The brand is Mantoni, fabric is super 140s (if you believe the tag.. some SF posts about Mantoni/similar brands from a while back make me take that with a grain of salt) if that matters in the scheme of things.
ps. Also sorry about the top button not being button.. like I said, wasn't thinking ahead :/
it costs the store money to do alterations. most store owners tell the tailor to do as little as possible.
before you redo the sleeves, make sure that the shirt cuffs touch the base of the thumb.
usually the low shoulder and high hip are on the same side??
I recently was given this suit from my girlfriend, who picked it up from HK. I'm wondering if you think this is salvagable or not. Obviously it would make her happier if it were. It is on the shorter side, which I'm ok with but:
- the tail vents gap open slightly
- the sleeves are very wrinkled in the back - sleeve pitch?
- the back of the jacket doesn't seem to drape smoothly perhaps my butt is too big?
- the seat in the pants is quite tight - especially with a shirt tucked into it, almost feel like I'm getting a wedgie, but not to that point
- the pants side pockets pull at the bottom
Thanks so much!
I like how the made in italy fits you, I think the usa made pair is a bit narrow in the leg.
I'm in need of a new suit, and thought I'd go the MTM route.
The best fitting suit I have right now is a DKNY slim 36S. Would appreciate your help in things to alter so that I can base my future MTM suit measurements on the altered suit.
I am having two bespoke/ custom suits with full / fully-floating canvas made up in London. This is my first time with a new tailor as my old one retired. I would be really interested in any suggestions on alterations following my baste fitting - feel free to be as critical as you'd like! I've attached the photos of both suits below. Thanks
thank you for buttoning the shirt collar. the back needs to be shortened at the top. yes the seat is too tight, have it let out. that will clear the butt. the sleeves need to be rehung to match the angle of your arms. let out the trouser seat and crotch all thats in there. the rise looks a bit short. if it feels like the waist could come up higher. then the crotch could be deepened. a half inch is usually enough. dont forget to save the cut off cloth from the trouser bottom. you just may need it later. .
@Caltex: Thanks. I didn't even notice the additional slimness before, but now I think I see it.
Bump in hopes of another opinion.
thank you for buttoning the shirt collar.
the shoulder width looks fine.
you have a right low shoulder, there is a tutorial to show
how to measure a low shoulder.
you may also measure for a high hip.
there is also a tutorial for that.
the seat could be just a bit looser.
cant tell you about the coat length, its not in the photo.
ask them for a higher armhole.
along with the measurements you should
send them the 3 views photos. you can mark right
on the photo things that concern you.
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