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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. jbernard

    jbernard Senior member

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    Mar 22, 2012
    Location:
    Michigan
    I just had this suit made. My tailor is closed until Monday and I was wondering what is up with this? It is a full canvas suit. Do I need to take it back so they can take some fabric off? Or do I just need to get it pressed?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Press first and wait to see if wrinkles come back. Use heat and pressure, no steam. This looks like what happens when it has been subjected to steam. Wait till Monday is safer.
     
  3. jbernard

    jbernard Senior member

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    If the wrinkles don't come out is it ruined? Why did it do that? My other suits I can steam to remove wrinkles.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2012
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I am trying to think of something worse you could do to a suit than to hang it in a bathroom with the shower on or use a steamer on a suit but I just can't think of something.

    The other suits you have steamed are doing the same thing but it doesn't show up as much or you can't see it.
     
  5. jbernard

    jbernard Senior member

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    Seems a little ridiculous that everything says you should steam your suit to remove wrinkles.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Everybody has an opinion. What sources are you using?

    Did this happen on your suit when you used steam?
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2012
  7. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Everything except the guys who actually make the stuff, and we all seem to agree that steaming is bad. Funny, that.
     
  8. scoredtx

    scoredtx Active Member

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    The experts speak! What would you do about wrinkles? We know not to send them to the cleaners, and now we know the hot shower is out. Perhaps we just become more accepting of wrinkles...
     
  9. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Breguet in your avatar? Love their elegant look.

    Using steam without heat and pressure is like adding a liquid to your batter but not stirring followed by not baking the batter and expecting the proper result.

    Pressing is how you maintain clothing and for a better made garment or a garment with more shape, the better qualified the presser should be. Pressing requires as much skill, maybe more skill as any other operation in tailoring. No exaggeration.

    I rarely press my own clothing except to put a crease in the trouser and get rid of wrinkles in the thigh area. Jackets get a press to shrink in the collar and get rid of wrinkles on the back part of the jacket and I do this myself. If you have a good relationship with your tailor, he may be a resource for this.

    Have wanted to put a tutorial on here about touching up or how to press trousers for at least a year but haven't gotten around to it. WIll try to do it soon and you will be able to clean up the wrinkles on your trousers at home.
     
    3 people like this.
  11. scoredtx

    scoredtx Active Member

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    Thanks, Chris and Jeff. Seems you agree on pressing. I can only suppose that the temp of the iron should be less than you would use on a cotton shirt. I admit that I am sort of afraid to try it.

    How do you feel about those trouser pressers (as made by Corby for instance)?

    A tutorial would be welcomed as your time allows. Many thanks.

    PS-I love my Breguet. I have to say that it sometimes feel a little diminutive compared to some of my others (newest is an Archimedes), but it is elegant and understated.
     
  12. JackHunter

    JackHunter Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 10, 2012
    I want to start getting mtm shirts, and my understanding is it's best to use measurements from existing shirts rather than body measurements. That given, how would you adjust this shirt to get a good fit, it's currently my best fit.
    [​IMG]
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  13. BradleyD

    BradleyD New Member

    Messages:
    3
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    Sep 21, 2012
    I'm a first time poster on here, but I've already found a lot of the advice throughout the site very helpful. Helping me in my transition from having poor style to better style at least. Anyways, I need to get a new suit right away, and I posted pictures on page 119 (sorry, some of them are sideways, and I don't know why or how to fix them!) - if anyone can give me some advice on fit, and how I should alter it to fit better I would appreciate it. What to look for in getting the next suit would be even more helpful. Thanks!
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Jacket looks a bit big in the upper areas, shoulder too wide, blade area too big, chest too big. Balance is good, back is a touch short but I wouldn't fool with it. Would suggest a higher rise, these look like they won't stay up. Higher rise helps this. The back of the trouser needs to be lifted to remove the wrinkling on the back part. Trouser length can be shorter.
     
  15. PaaPanf

    PaaPanf Active Member

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    Toronto, Canada
    I think your doing it right. I have a old suit that fits like your last one. Maybe i will try to fix it up too!
     
  16. PaaPanf

    PaaPanf Active Member

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    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    From my experience. the excess material in your back if from the back setting. You have a straight back and material from the back should get cut out. Everything else i can see in the photo looks fine. make sure you wash it a few time first tho
     
  17. James77

    James77 Active Member

    Messages:
    35
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    Sep 8, 2009
    Location:
    Calgary
    Thought I would update my earlier post. I took the sport coat from Brooks Brothers in to have work done. I had the sleeves shortened, shoulders narrowed, waist supressed and the material under the collar removed. It's not perfect, but I think an improvement. I'm happy with it.
    Here is the before
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    And after
    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    Here is another suit I have from my brothers wedding years ago. (just wearing the jacket). Same issues I think as before. Too long, sleeves need shortening. waist needs taking in, and the shoulders need taking in.
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. lysandar

    lysandar Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 21, 2012
    I would hazard to guess that you need to let out the small of your back and rotate your sleeves.
     
  19. James77

    James77 Active Member

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    Sep 8, 2009
    Location:
    Calgary
    

    Thanks, I'm am trying to work with what I have and use it as a learning process as to what works for me and what doesn't. I figure that way, when I buy new things or have them made for me I am more aware of what I want/will fit me right and I can reduce the amount of tailoring needed.
     
  20. JackFlash

    JackFlash Senior member

    Messages:
    850
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2012
    Thrifted a nice J Press sport coat. Length of the coat and arms are spot on. Can the waist be nipped a bit without having the front parts fly open? My main concern is that the shoulders are a little too wide, causing bunching in the upper back. Any thoughts? Thanks!


    [​IMG]


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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2012

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