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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is a problem if it is not the look you like. To some it is a stylistic preference.

    Assuming these are both cut with side bodies the work would be done on the seam that extends fro the front pocket to the hem. Along the seam that joins the side body to the fronts. The jacket would be taken in on the front only or the side body only or equally from both. I would look at the grain line to know which is best and how much to reduce. This is the easiest fix. Not a big job.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2011


  2. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Senior member

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    thanks a lot for the feedback
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There are two elements at odds here. The cut/balance of the jacket and your posture. This picture defines the issue most clearly. Jacket balance is a feature of the pattern and a perfectly proportioned mannequin is the object to be fitted on a RTW garment.

    From the side view the outline of your posture is best displayed. Your upper body seems to lean towards the back, this is an erect posture. Your lower body position is referred to as "hips forward." If you use a tape measure and measure the distance from the base of your neck at the back, straight down your back to the floor and from the same point over your shoulder, over your chest and stomach to the ground, the back measure will be considerably shorter than the front measure. That is why the jacket hikes up at the lower front. The front jacket length is too short from the shoulder seam to the hem of the front part and the jacket length is too long on the back from the shoulder seam to the hem on the backpart.
    If your head and shoulders were more forward the difference of front and back measure would change the other way. Longer back, shorter front.

    This is what balance is all about. You need a jacket that has a shorter back and longer front to drape properly for your posture. It is the difference in length of the backpart in relation to the frontpart that create balance. The jacket is made for some one that is somewhat even front and back.
    The same can be done for the trouser. The measure from the waistband of the trouser is a shorter distance to the floor in back than the front. You need a shorter back/ longer front to clean up the wrinkling on the back of the trousers.

    This isn't something that can be altered in a finished garment as well as if the garment were cut thru a MTM program or was being custom made for you.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 29, 2011


  4. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    Chris, do you have any pictures that demonstrate a near perfect fit?
     


  5. PorterInjax

    PorterInjax Senior member

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    Chris,

    Thank you. I'm going to try and visit Nick Lopez in Houston on Saturday (no experience with him or any other tailor in Houston but the only one I could find with good reviews) and see if he can improve the look of the suit for me. I recently purchased this as a RTW. I have no need for suits other than weddings and funerals but WANT one that fits.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2011


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Porter,
    If you spend some time trying on different brands you will find, as you already discovered, some will fit better and require fewer adjustments to look right. Nick will be a big help to you.

    Chris
     


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Every time I look into the mirror, but no pictures :)
     


  8. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    +2. Yeah, but it fits well.
     


  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    It's "costumey"
     


  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    +1 Today is the first time I checked out this thread which you discussed last night at the Meet-Up. Excellent! Most impressive is the willingness of our professional members to critically comment on our clothing choices. Several times over the past few years I have been the beneficiary of Mr. Di Pietropaolo's (a tailor) advice via PM. Now a wider circle can share this expertise.
     


  11. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Update:

    I found a tailor via recommendation from a forum member. Very nice, and will be my new spot to go.

    Took the jacket to new tailor, pants to my regular. My decision...wish I took the pants to the new guy as well.

    Jacket came out great, Mario via Cassara Brothers, knew exactly what was wrong. The waist was suppressed too much pulling the top (shoulder/back) and bottom (the vents) causing wrinkles and flares, respectively. May decide to have the vents closed though.

    Pants came out well IMO except the actual work is horrible. The seams inside the pants do not align!! ugh. Going to bring to Mario and see what his critique is.

    Overall, I like the new pants leg width and length (width increase from 7.5 to about 8 inches, and hemmed). Waist also taken in.

    How is it though?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Excuse the first pic, did not fix the pant leg before photo.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2011


  12. bigbucky

    bigbucky Senior member

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    My first MTM and I'm really depressed. Got a sportcoat and pants from MyTailor and the Joe was great but just doesn't look the way I thought it would.

    Caveats:
    I know i have a dropped right shoulder and that probably makes the fit harder. Also the shirt sleeves are too long.

    The things I'm most concerned with are all the wrinkles in the pants and the dimples in the SC shoulders. I suspect the wrinkles in the back of the SC are due to that dropped shoulder.

    Overall it just looks bad but I can't really explain why. I'm sure you can :D


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  13. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2011


  14. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    For MTM the fit is good, I've seen an awful lot worse. The coat should be a bit longer though, imo, and the trousers could do with some cleaning up at the back, but it's good for a first try.
     


  15. bigbucky

    bigbucky Senior member

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    How is this done? Seems like all my trousers are like this. Do they just take in the extra material at the seams? Is it due to my stance?
     


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