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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    Tampa, FL
    

    Thanks Despos - I tried my best to compare the measurements on the 2 jackets and request changes on the trial jacket so that it will measure closer to the size of the RLPL. I'm still working out the kinks and I haven't submitted a final request yet. The shoulder measurement on the trial jacket is 46.5cm and the RLPL is 48cm. I'm thinking maybe 47.5cm would be close to perfect.

    I agree the trial jacket is too small all around, and I also noticed that the front balance is short. I estimated that I need to add about 1.5cm to the length in the back and nearly 4cm to the length in the front (as well as lowering the button stance by about 2cm).
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Decide how much bigger you want the shoulder from the sample jacket, not how much smaller to make them from the RL sizing. Work your measurements from the sample jacket not the RL. If you go up a size in the chest the shoulder may be alright. Do they provide the specs for sizing?
     
  3. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    thanks again for the expert advice...I'll just make the adjustments based on this jacket instead of comparing it to a different jacket. There are sizing specs for each trial size - I think if I size up the shoulder may end up being too big, which I definitely want to avoid. Looking at the pics of the trial jacket from the front, the shoulder doesn't look all that small, and I think the tightness from the back shot may be due to the size of the chest and armhole, which is a little too snug. Is that probably what is causing the bunching around the armpit on the back shot?
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The shoulder doesn't look wide as it relates to the narrow chest. When the chest gets fuller you want the same proportion. Just check the specs and see what the difference might be. Combination of shoulder slope, low right shoulder and snug fit contribute to the pulling under the arms on the back.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2012
  5. jader

    jader Member

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    6
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    Jun 17, 2012
    This is a friend's first suit. He bought it though Indochino and is looking to get a remake. Keep in mind he is football player, so he has a huge upper body with a narrow waist. So far, he plans to have 1.5 inches added to the waist, 1 inch added to the chest, half an inch added to each sleeve, and an inch added to the pants on the thigh. He is also going to ask them to fix the shoulder divots, if possible.

    Any suggestions are very much appreciated.


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  6. MadAboutPlaid

    MadAboutPlaid Senior member

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    Feb 11, 2011
    Location:
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Here is a new Benjamin. I am wondering if this jacket is too small or if I am just not used to wearing a suit that is this slim. I am 5' 10" and 185 lbs. This is a 52R.

    My two main concerns are 1) the shoulders (divots?) and 2) the back (does my butt make the vent push out too much?)
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    Last edited: Sep 17, 2012
  7. IRKSM

    IRKSM Senior member

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    nvm
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012
  8. BespokenUK

    BespokenUK Active Member

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    Mar 3, 2012
    This suit looks really good IMO; as good as a made to measure suit before its had a fitting; ok the side seams could be let out a fraction, about 1/4'' each side, but if you lost a kilo you wouldn't even need to do it and you would save £30. The sleeve divots are acceptable; it is barely noticable (a lot of made to measure suits have come out a lot worse than what I see in the picture) but if your going to be picky you could repitch the sleeve back a little but this takes a really good tailor to do well, and could cost quite a bit (at least £70 in London for a good tailor to do it). The sleeves are a fraction long, I would shorten 3/8''. Generally its really good for non designer off-the-peg suit, I think you've done well considering its around $600
     
  9. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

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    Aug 3, 2012
    Hi all,

    I actually made a thread asking for critiques on my suit, but one thing I know for a fact is my left shoulder on this suit jacket. Everything else fits me very nicely, so I'm wondering how difficult of a tailoring job would fixing this shoulder be? You see it protrudes out a little bit and there's quite an indention... I must have uneven shoulders :/
    Front and back views below... left shoulder noticeably has some kind of issue goin on. I'm pretty newbish, so any insight would be much appreciated. My suit guy will cover any tailor costs, so I'd like to be as precise as possible when I take it in. Thanks!


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    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012
  10. black_umbrella

    black_umbrella Senior member

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    midsouthcentralus
    THought I might as well jump in here too. Most of my SC fit in like the one shown below. I've lurked long enough that I think I know what's wrong and to know that it would cost more than the jacket to fix. But I'm definitely looking for the expert feedback here. I think posture is causing some of the issues.

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    Last edited: Sep 19, 2012
  11. GrensonMan

    GrensonMan Senior member

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    Jan 15, 2012
    Location:
    Austin/Houston
    Just got my MTM shirt in the mail. First things I noticed; There is a crease around the yoke that I believe stems from the tightness of the fit. The shoulders could be lengthened 1/4''. There is some bunching around the rib cage. The chest is a bit tight. Considering that I haven't washed it yet, theses issues will only be magnified. Your suggestions are appreciated.

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    Regards,
    GrensonMan
     
  12. GrensonMan

    GrensonMan Senior member

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  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    first, why didnt you button the collar?
    for a critique the shirt should be photoed
    both tucked and untucked.
    in the areas that are tight ,there is no way to
    alter it larger. shirts do not have extra cloth
    inside to make it larger. just make a new shirt.
    the problem at the yoke is a cutting mistake.
    there are two curved lines where there
    should be straight lines.
    also i wonder if the hip measure is too tight.

    if you decide to reorder, send them these pictures.
    also you may send them the shirt to repair the yoke.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2012
  14. GrensonMan

    GrensonMan Senior member

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    Austin/Houston
    Hey a tailor,

    I apologize for not including the untucked pictures. The shirt was too tight around the hips and will need about 2 inches added. Thank you for solving the yoke issue. I had some bunching of fabric around the upper rib cage, just below the arm pits. Any idea what the cause could be?
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2012
  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ok g man
    from the top.
    the shoulders, one quarter to one half inch on each side.
    the bunching is mostly from the tightness.
    i dont think that 2 inches will be enough. thats 1/2" on each side
    of the front and 1/2" on each side of the back. 4" is better.
    if the chest is that tight then the hips are the same. and
    you may need 4"there also.
    when a shirt is tight in the hips it has a tendency to creep up
    higher and out of the trousers.
     
  16. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    on the coat i would add an "erect posture". and 3"to the waist and 3"to the hips.

    on the trousers add 2" to the thigh.. make the bottom large enough to cover the shoe laces.
    that will give him more room over the calfs. does he wear the trousers low?
    the rise looks rather short.

    does he have one low shoulder? go to the tutorials find "do i have a low shoulder?
    it will tell you how to measure for a low shoulder.

    also send them these pictures.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2012
  17. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    harryx2
    jackets fine. thats cute pose, gq wants you.
     
  18. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hey MAP
    if its uncomfortable then its too tight. did you try a larger one?
    yes its too tight in the butt.
    you have a right low shoulder and a right high hip.
    check on how to measure these.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2012
  19. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ngunyenning

    i take it this is a made to measure?
    if so then the problem is the low shoulder .
    it should have been cut for that.
     
  20. BradleyD

    BradleyD New Member

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    Sep 21, 2012
    This looks like a very interesting thread so I guess I'll give it a try. Just go easy on me - I only recently realized that NBA rookies aren't the ideal role models for suit fashion. This is an Indochino suit, and while it seems that Indochino has been drawing the ire of many posters here, at least its a step in the right direction for me considering the fact that I can see now my last suit was more appropriately sized for a 6 foot 10 mob enforcer. Everyone has to start somewhere, right? I'm certainly new at this, so whatever helpful feedback and advice I can get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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