The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    From the back view the jacket looks big across the shoulder and blades and then has a peculiar nipped in at the waist look that make s the jacket hang up on your hips. The left sleeve is longer. Shorten the left sleeve to match the right. Make them both shorter if you like them shorter.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A picture with the jacket on would tell what needs to be done. Adjust jacket sleeves shorter or adjust shirt to work with the jacket.
     
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What do you mean by custom made suits? These two suits are so different from each other. The black has balance issues caused by your very erect posture. Fronts are short and the back is too long.
    Needs some shoulder/collar work in the back.
    The jacket is too short and about 1 1/2" shorter than the lighter colored suit.
    They didn't adjust well for your low right shoulder. See how the right front (button) hangs so much lower than the left (buttonhole)? The balance is better on the light suit but needs work on the shoulder/collar like the black suit.
    The coat fronts are boxy and have no shape or definition.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2012
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Triple Luke, you look a lot like the UPS delivery guy that comes to our building.

    If you hadn't bought this from Ebay, I would say go back and try on a different size. Is this new or recycled?

    The shoulders are wide and very big at the blades. You have erect posture and that's why the back hangs longer than the front.
    The trouser fit is very roomy around the seat and nips in severely at the waist, looks unnatural. Is the belt cinched up? You may be wearing them too low on your hips or the rise is too long for you. If you get the seat to fit you may need the leg tapered to keep things in proportion.
    Whoever you use to alter this, get their opinion if you should keep it or return.

    The problem is this cut on you. You have good shoulders for jackets and are vert fit and trim but your natural shape does't come thru on this suit. You have the body type to make clothes look good but it's lost in this suit.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2012
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The jacket looks baggy and shapeless. The fronts are short and back is long. That's what makes the vent hang like that. Your right shoulder is about 1" lower and pitched foreword more than the left. The jacket front is shifting from right to left. Need some collar/shoulder work on the back and some shape at the waist, Blades are too big across the back. You do carry your arms a bit to the back and that contributes to the wrinkles along the back of the sleeves.
     
  6. Brianpore

    Brianpore B&S (BS) ambassador-in-chief

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    The jacket looks baggy and shapeless. The fronts are short and back is long. That's what makes the vent hang like that.
    Your right shoulder is about 1" lower and pitched foreword more than the left. The jacket front is shifting from right to left.
    Need some collar/shoulder work on the back and some shape at the waist, Blades are too big across the back.
    You do carry your arms a bit to the back and that contributes to the wrinkles along the back of the sleeves.

    Thanks!! Does the shirt fit well? I'm pretty happy with it, but like your opinion. I know I express my gratitude for everyone for taking the time to go though each set of pictuers!!
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The sleeves have a lot of extra length but the cuffs are narrow enough that they don't extend onto your hand. You won't get rid of the diagonal pulling on the chest and sides unless you have shirts made that are adjusted to match your shoulder slope
     
  8. lukelukeluke

    lukelukeluke Well-Known Member

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    thanks despos. my problem with the roomy trousers/nipped waist is that i have a relatively big butt (39") and thighs (24") but a small waist (31.5"). so yes, the belt is cinched in quite a bit in those photos. sounds like maybe i should just let this one go and find another suit.

    the suit is like new; it came without tags but there's no evidence of wear at all. perhaps it's destined for B&S. too bad, i really like it otherwise. live and learn...
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2012
  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This may get altered and look fine, you need a second opinion with a competent fitter/tailor. If you are a 38 chest your waist/seat measure is normal. The cinching may be effecting the look. If you have a 36 chest your seat is only 1" bigger than standard sizing.

    My suggestion is to find a suit with a trimmer jacket/trouser silhouette that flatters your build and doesn't look shapeless. This suit covers you but doesn't flatter you.
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2012
  10. tes1388

    tes1388 Member

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    1st post on styleforum! 24y/o finally getting my act together in terms of style. Forgive the lingo (or lack thereof) and try to help a young guy out. I had a few suits made from Crown Tailors (Bangkok) while they were in the U.S.. They sent me the 1st one and told me to give them feedback on changes to make for the next. Overall I think the jacket is too boxy and wide. I would like a more slim/modern fit as I am young and figure what the hell. I think the jacket needs a more suppressed waist w/ softer and narrower shoulders (lots of rippling under the shoulder). Also do you think the pants should be hemmed a bit? I'm thinking that I would prefer less of a break. Anyway, thanks for the help and sorry for the poor quality pics (I was unaware of the proper pic etiquete before I found this blog) and please forgive the tie knot!.

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  11. tes1388

    tes1388 Member

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    1st post on styleforum! 24y/o finally getting my act together in terms of style so please forgive the lingo (and lack thereof) and help a young guy out. I had a few suits made from Crown Tailors (Bangkok) while they were in the U.S. They sent me the 1st one and told me to give them feedback before they make the others. Overall I think the jacket is too boxy/wide. I'm looking for a more slim/modern fit b/c I'm young and figure what the hell. I would like a more suppressed waist on the jacket and think the shoulders need to be narrower and softer (lots of rippling underneath the shoulder. Also do you think the pants need to be hemmed a bit? I think I may prefer less of a break. Anyway, thanks a lot of the help! Also, please forgive the poor pics (didn't realize the pic etiquette until finding this site) and the tie knot! Thanks again!
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  12. dammit

    dammit Active Member

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    Hi All

    First post here, this is an OTR Ben Sherman Kings Fit (slim fit) suit I bought, I am 6'1" and 85kg so quite tall & slim, which is challenging with clothing. This is a 40R, 36" pants, seems to fit quite well. I got the pants altered to a mid break. Does the jacket need any altering? How does it look? Shoes - I would normally be wearing black business/dress shoes but only had brown shoes for the photo,, so please ignore that component! I would say it is a dark gray color suit, up close has pinstripes.

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  13. dammit

    dammit Active Member

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  14. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    That's not a mid break. That is excessive break, and those pants are quite slim so it looks even worse. Get them shortened...
     
  15. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Yeah, that's way past mid-break.
     

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