The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    why didnt you button the collar?
    the body can be taken in at the sides.
    cant see where the shoulders end.
     


  2. MrDrumngun

    MrDrumngun Member

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    I have a question on fit for a shirt. I have a very athletic build. Size 31 waist and very broad shoulders and chest. Not sure on the measurement but I think my chest is 40". I like my clothes to fit snug and proper. Not afraid to accentuate my body at all. I'm 5'10" and 175 #. How much room should my shirts have at the waist in order to not be bunched up or sloppy. Should I have 2" of room? More, Less?
     


  3. Notatinyman

    Notatinyman Member

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    Thanks.

    I was looking for opinions on how the body fit. I am not sure exactly how a shirt should fit because I am much bigger than most people on this forum.

    I already know the collar is a bit too small and the sleeves are too long (the shirt was a hand me down from a friend who lost a bunch of weight).
     


  4. MrDrumngun

    MrDrumngun Member

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    Yea that shirt still looks too big on you. Do you plan on losing more weight?
     


  5. mnlgrind

    mnlgrind Member

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    a tailor,

    Thank you for your reply. This thread is awesome and very enlightening! I would like to clarify some of your comments for me to better understand it. First, in terms of balance I do see that the front pulls up and I also read your thread "balance explained" and this means I have an erect posture as well?

    As for the coats, are the first button positions in the right place? If yes, then the length from the collar to the first button is correct but from that button down to the bottom of the coat is short. This is what you mean by being unbalanced correct?

    And by 'the brown may work out better' you mean the black suit or the grey one? I'm guessing the gray one since its longer than the black one?

    Sad to say these are custom made/bespoke. I would like to bring the suits back to him and ask him to take a look at this thread and see if he would fix it for me.

    Again thanks again a tailor for your inputs! I really appreciate it!
     


  6. Notatinyman

    Notatinyman Member

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    Ideally I would like to lose another 50lbs but overtime (at least a year).
     


  7. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    No, balance is more that just the button-stance, and has nothing whatsoever to do with the distance from the button to the hem. It is perfectly possible for both those things to be perfect, yet the balance to still be off.

    Balance is not an absolute that you can determine purely from the measures of the front the coat, it is a relative measure between both the front and back. It is essentially the relation between the vertical distances between the neckpoint and another fixed horizontal reference, such as the waist or the scye depth, on both the front and back. For example, someone who has an erect posture will need a relatively shorter back balance and relatively longer from balance, and vice-versa for someone with a stooped posture.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2012


  8. lukelukeluke

    lukelukeluke Well-Known Member

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    Bought this Hickey Freeman suit off ebay. I know some things need fixing but thought I'd ask the masters here before taking it to the tailor. The guy I go to has done good work for me on shirts and pants and even another suit, but I'll feel more comfortable going back to him if I know a little more what I'm talking about. Please to be ignoring the ugly shoes, I was in bit of a rush and didn't feel like putting on a proper pair.

    Thanks y'all!

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  9. MrDrumngun

    MrDrumngun Member

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    I'm not expert but I think that just looks way too big. The trousers seem to go out a lot in the hip from the waist and the pant legs are just too baggy. Likewise with the coat. I'm just a fan of slimmer clothes so my opinion may be biased here.
     


  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes you have a very erect posture . balance is controlled from the top. thats because the coat
    hangs from the top. for an erect posture, the top of the front must be longer and the top of the
    back must be shorter.

    the button placement is controlled by the tailors placement. the button does not control balance.

    i guess the grey one looks brown on my screen.

    did he make this with his own hands or did he send out to be made.
    and how many fittings were made during the construction?
     


  11. JBG89

    JBG89 Senior member

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    Bump for any help
     


  12. JBG89

    JBG89 Senior member

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    Bump for any help!

     


  13. Brianpore

    Brianpore B&S (BS) ambassador-in-chief

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    Is this suit worth getting tailored and if so what would you do?
    Why do the arms look so horrible in the back? (rotate at the shoulder? which I'm not going to pay for, but just wondering)?
    Thoughts on the shirt fit?

    Note: Was picked up for $7 at a thrift store for a one time use to a beach wedding (color is lighter blue then in pictures). I am a 36S (on the small side of 36S at 5'7",128 lbs)


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    Last edited: Jun 23, 2012


  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I've seen much worse for much more...
     


  15. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    Looks good, I don't see TOO much work needing to be done. Mostly just shorten the sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2012


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