The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    I appreciate honest feedback. Totally fine with me and I will learn from it when purchasing new suits & going mtm and bespoke later.

    Here is what the jacket initially looked like with the back taken in (~1/2'') and shortened (3/4''). I agree that the shoulders are big, but the rest of the suit wasn't too large on me.
    [​IMG]
    Is this any better in balance (Aside from the fact that it is unwearable tight)? I do want to keep the suit & work with my tailor on it to a reasonable extent.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2012


  2. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Despos-

    Also, here is a simulation (Before, even pull-up, center-pull-up):
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    If I understand correctly, I need to fix the red-box areas. The crotch needs to be adjusted. Atthe waistband seam: If pulled up evenly, the pants will still not be straight, so you mean I have to taper the pants towards the center seam to make it straight as possible? Now I see that the side-seams of the thighs under the side pockets will need adjustments, too.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2012


  3. TheGreatGatsbee

    TheGreatGatsbee New Member

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    Nvm.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2012


  4. JBG89

    JBG89 Senior member

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    Bump for any help if possible, trying to make a suit purchase by tomorrow. Thanks!
     


  5. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    Hey experts just got my new suit tailored and need some advice. First I'd like to note is that I noticed beige and light colored suits looks extra wrinkly... Can someone confirm this? I tried to steam it, but might made it a little worse..

    I'd like to also note that the pants look like they have a little much break on them. But I've tailored it short enough that if I get it any shorter my ankles would always show even when stationary.

    Are the shoulders too big? It's a RLBL suit, which like Tom Ford, usually has aggressive shoulders instead of soft ones

    With that said my major concern is that below the collar and the back of the armpit area, there's some excess fabric still. My tailor took it in the back for me. But said that he could remove the excess fabric, but he would need to take it in more but advised against it because it will be too tight on the arms for me and constrict my movement. Is this true? I read that he can simply lower the collar. How is lowering the collar done?

    What work needs to be done to the back specifically?
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2012


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The trouser opening at the hem is too narrow and doesn't fall over the shoe. Have the front shorten 1/2 to 3/4" but not the back. The back rise is too long and causes the wrinkling on the back of the thigh.

    You are low on the right shoulder and the buttons don't line up. If you unbutton the jacket the right side will drop down and the buttonhole on the left ring will be higher than the button. That's causing the pull on the button. Have the button moved up.

    The sleeves are not matching the armhole and have wrinkles along the back of the sleeves.

    Back view, shoulders are too wide and the blades are too full. Can be reduced. The back is too long caused by an erect posture and may be a little tight at the waist. Waist line is a bit low. Would be better to raise the waistline and let out from the waist to the side vent. You have a high right hip and a larger right hip. Right side of the jacket needs to be let out on the hip, just above the vent more than the left side. Some of this is major surgery.

    There is never a good time or reason to steam a suit, worse thing you can do. Especially on light weight cloth. I press light weight, hard finished cloth dry, hardly any steam used. Suit needs to be pressed well by a tailor. Light colors do show wrinkles and flaws of fit more than dark colors.
     


  7. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    Could you elaborate on how you would shorten the front hem but not the back?

    Thanks despos
     


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Any tailor will know to do that. Because they are bunching up I can't tell if he altered them at an angle or straight across. The back should be angled down and longer than the front length if they aren't done that way now. He has to let out the outlet on the front part and stretch the fronts with an iron.
    Did you have the leg tapered or is this the original size?

    I think the jacket looks too long on you when I looked at the pictures again. Try on different sizes and silhouettes before you buy the next suit.
     


  9. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Despos, could you check my photos up top to see if I have the right idea about the trouser changes that would be needed to make the back straight?
     


  10. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    Yeah, the tailored recommended me to taper it. It's currently at 7.5" leg opening. Will letting shortening the from hem by 1/2-3/4" allow the pants to fall over the shoe again?

    Also in regards to me being a low right, to move the button up, would the tailor have to move the button hole as well or is it a simple, remove the button and resew it higher up a bit.

    And what are the steps necessary to make the sleeves match the armholes?

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2012


  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, you need a wider opening. For your size 8.5 opening would be better, even 9. Better balance with the jacket. Trouser looks too trim compared to the fit of the jacket.

    Just move the button, buttonhole cannot be moved

    Adjusting the sleeve is engineering. Remove the sleeve, measure the armhole, reshape the sleeve and reattach.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's the idea, cut out the horizontal strip between the waistband and pockets. Let out the crotch and deepen the seat curve, reshape the seat. Open both side seams to the knee and take in the back part 3/4" at the very top, tapering to just above the knee. This step helps pick up the back, straighten the side seam and cleans up the area below the pocket you point out. You really have to do all this to get the full result. The back pockets are going to look all wonky. They will be too close to the side seam and won't be parallel with the waistband seam because you have to reduce more at the center back seam than the point at the outseam. Even after this, the trouser will be better but maybe not perfect like the Vox picture.
     


  13. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Despos, that is very clear. This operation should probably not shorten the trousers at all since the excess is essentially being pulled up, correct? Many thanks for the help and I'll post the final result of this fix later on.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2012


  14. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    Despos -

    Just to be clear, if I have my tailor let out the taper by an inch, would he still need to shorten the front hem by 1/2-3/4 an inch?
    Also just to add, what if the pants don't have any more fabric left to be let out by an inch, what's the best course of action then?


    As for the button moving - I also assume that I would just only need to move the top button up right? The bottom button doesn't get button so it's fine as is? Also, how much upper should it be moved, 1 cm?
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2012


  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I had this done on RTW trousers a long time ago. I ended up with the worst mooseknuckle the world has ever seen. Hopefully whoever gets them from goodwill will not suffer the sad consequences as I did.
     


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