The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The jacket is very stylized and glad you are not using this for business. The look is very unconventional.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Compare the look you have with other double breasted models. Just look for other examples of double breasted jackets. What you have is very "fashionable" and that distinguishes it from classic double breasted models making it less appropriate for a conservative suit for business.
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    allaboutshoes -
    I know this is a tailor's thread, but since you're asking about style stuff and you seem to want an opinion, personally I'm not a fan at all. The extremely high buttons means that there's virtually no space above the jacket, which looks weird, and the square of the buttons in the middle to me just makes you look like a robot or something.
     
  4. MSchapiro

    MSchapiro Senior member

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    Gentlemen,
    I'm aware that this is for suits, but I just received my first MTM shirt from proper cloth and need expert advice on what needs to be done to make it fit perfectly. I am rather irregularly sized, so MTM has been my only option as I prepare for interviews and the workforce.

    I have photos of the shirt both tucked and untucked as I plan in the future to order some oxfords to wear untucked.

    I am sorry for the poor photo quality, as although I own a DSLR it does not, along with anything of value, reside in my college dorm. Let me know if better pictures or more angles are required and I will do my best.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thank you in advance for the help.
     
  5. Obergaiman

    Obergaiman New Member

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    I laughed out loud, Despos. Filter FTW.

    Seriously, though, all this is very educational. Trying to get my head around most of the terms. Must do serious homework. Thank you to all the tailors for your free advice and consultation.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2011
  6. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    I would have probably worded it differently, but agree with the essence here.
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Choosing the correct words was definitely the issue here
     
  8. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2011
  9. PorterInjax

    PorterInjax Senior member

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    Hi and thank you in advance for comments.
    I have this suit that I bought off the rack and had the sleeves altered. Tried it on today and noticed the sleeves are way out of whack (one is noticeably shorter than the other). After looking in the mirror a bit I see quite a few things relating to fit that I don't like;
    Why are the pants bunching up in the back? Perhaps I should have take a photo of the seat without the jacket but they aren't tight anywhere.
    The jacket fits in the shoulders. I tried one size down and it seemed to fit better everywhere with the exception of the shoulders. I think the sides need to be taken in and the length shortened. Why do the shoulders and sleeves ripple like that? Do the sleeves need to be tapered?
    Any and all constructive comments will be greatly appreciated.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  10. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    Since I don't have a professional reputation as a tailor to maintain, I'm going to be more blunt than them in regards to your suit.

    It's very catered towards the current "fashion," which I don't like personally. I'm hoping jackets return to normal length and wider lapels. It has very thin lapels, high buttons, only 4 buttons, slanted and jetted (is that the correct name) pockets, and is short. All of these are unconventional and not classic for a style of jacket that is mostly known for being classic. I think DBs need wider than standard lapels to begin with, can be 4 button but most often 6 button, lower buttons, standard flap pockets, and longer in length. I think the biggest issue are the lapels and button height/length of jacket (correlated).
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2011
  11. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Senior member

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    sorry
    i know i need better quality pics but let me at least get some initial feedback

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    trying to figure out why the suit on the right has a "flaring" or "bell shape" at the bottom
    (do you think the suit on the left is fine? or even that one is showing some of the same problem?)

    what i am suspecting
    the suit on the left is single center vented
    the suit on the right is double vented

    here are some other pictures to give you.. a better picture
    of my proportions
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    i do have a big butt relative to the rest of my body... do you think my hips are too wide?

    but is it ultimately a problem in the cut of the suit jacket?
    or is it just that i have some big wide child bearing hips and nothing can be done about it?
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2011
  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The skirt of the jacket is flared and this can be deliberate or an affect of cutting technique to help define the waist. I do a little of this on my own jackets because my waist and chest measure the same. I have 0 drop. I don't care for the look as much as used to so don't cut this way as much. This is a stylistic element and not at all a flaw but is perceived to be extreme by SF standards.
    If the jacket was unbuttoned the reason for the flare would be easier to assess.

    This is the effect of a crooked coat. The collar/shoulder shifts closer to the neck and the skirt of the jacket shoots out. Think of the fronts as a plane. Shift the top towards the neck and the bottom shifts in the opposite direction. Could also be caused by long fronts. Could have occurred from altering/shaping the waist but not the hip area. Would only know if a before and after the alteration view were available. Can be a design element of the pattern to have a flared skirt. I associate this loosely with English styling.
     
  13. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Senior member

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    do you see a problem in the left suit? or just in the right?
    left is a RTW hugo boss
    right is a custom made suit for me ... so it's not something that an alteration caused but rather something in the design
    and again the left is single center vent and right is double side vented

    so in your view, it's not necessarily a problem?
    i would prefer not to have the flaring/bell shape ... wondering if i should just take it to a local tailor for alteration
    would it require a lot of work to adjust?
     

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