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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    caltex
    you say the back was darted
    . i dont think so, if that was so they could be let out.
    but i dont see them in your pictures.
    there should be two lines of stitching going up
    and down the back.
    the tailor must have taken in the sides.
    all i can see is the side seams that are in the
    area below the sleeves. and those seams
    do not have anything that can be used to let out.
     
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if the armhole is too deep, then yes you need a higher armhole.
    there is no approved way of measuring the amount the bottom
    of the armhole needs to be raised. you can guesstimate it a
    little at a time, by just looking inside while you have it on.
    pictures always help.
     
  3. ZirconiumZephyr

    ZirconiumZephyr Well-Known Member

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    Ok, first time poster here, would really appreciate some help :)

    I bought this suit second hand off ebay to start to get an idea of what I want in a suit. I live in a small city in Australia where my options for clothes shopping are severely limited. I've found a tailor who seems nice but I have no idea of the quality of his work yet, have only had small alterations (sleeve length) done so far.

    Anyway, this is the suit, a navy Corneliani, 2 button, unvented.... It feels a little too large (though I am no expert) but not too far off.

    Forgive the pins, still waiting to take the trousers up ;)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Many thanks in advance
     
  4. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    Nothing, looks great to me.
     
  5. GrensonMan

    GrensonMan Senior member

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    Austin/Houston
    Hello gentleman,

    I will be taking this shirt in on Monday for alterations. It is a RTW that I am hoping can be altered enough to be my MTM reference shirt. Let me know what you think needs changing. I believe the arm length could be shortened 0.5'' and the waist taken in a bit as well. Thank you for your insights,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What the suit needs is difficult to alter. Your posture is erect and the jacket has a short front and long back. Need to shorten the back to get the jacket off your hips. That will clean up the wrinkles on the back at the waist. You have a low left shoulder.
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Suit is too big and too long. Don't alter it, find your correct size.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you have the option with the maker, specify that you have sloping shoulders and 1/2" low left shoulder. If you get a trimmer shirt you need to narrow the yoke a bit, maybe 3/4"
    If you reduce the waist have it taken from the back part only not the fronts, maybe 1" off each side of the back part.
    Don't shorten the sleeves on the first shirt until you know how the shirt will launder. Some fabrics may shrink more than others. better to have the first shirt a bit long just in case. It's an easy alteration if you need the sleeves made shorter later.
     
  9. mjt73106

    mjt73106 Senior member

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    "I've found a tailor who seems nice but I have no idea of the quality of his work yet, have only had small alterations (sleeve length) done so far."

    The jacket looks both too long and too wide. If you have already had the sleeves altered for length, I would be disappointed as they look too long.

    IMO the jacket needs extensive alterations that may not be worth the cost.
     
  10. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Yeah, the sleeves are still like a full inch too long. As Despos said, he should just buy the next size down as the whole suit is too big to alter appropriately.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2012
  11. diophan

    diophan Member

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    So I have a somewhat general question--is the amount of collar that shows at the back above a jacket something that's alterable? For whatever reason all OTR jackets have more exposed collar than I would prefer--about an inch total.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2012
  12. GrensonMan

    GrensonMan Senior member

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    Thank you for your analysis Chris.
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you have already had the sleeves altered for length, I would be disappointed as they look too long.[/quote]



    Yeah, the sleeves are still like a full inch too long./quote]

    He is saying sleeve shortening is the only job this tailor has done for him but I don't think he is referring to this jacket.
     
  14. OffTheCuffLV

    OffTheCuffLV Member

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    Aug 3, 2012
    Despos,
    I'm going to try to describe a problem without posting pics but please ask for them if you need them.
    I'm a self-taught alterationist/tailor and have been in the business now for about a year. The most amount of work I do is on my own stuff.
    My biggest problem area are my shoulders. They're not only sloped, but they also have a good deal of forward thrust/protraction. I've been altering the jackets by dropping the shoulders. This seems to fix the problem for the most part, but what I'm always left with is a sortof "hollow" of space over the shoulder cap...especially in the back over the rear deltoid. I could imagine the problem being fixed if my rear deltoids were bigger, but that isn't happening. What I've been doing to fix this is after I've dropped the shoulder line, I reinforce the upper armscye with a straight stitch around the seam allowance. The stitch goes completely thru all layers. When I replace the sleeve, the shoulder joint seems to be much more stout than before. I also experimented with removing the sleeve-head completely thereby allowing the shoulder pads to jut out into the sleeve...sortof like a neopolitan shoulder, but that really didn't work so well.
    Would you suggest anything else to remedy this issue? Maybe dropping the back part of the shoulder line more than the front, thereby removing some of the fullness?
    All of the jackets I'm altering are usually RTW or gently pre owned bespoke purchased from eBay. I'm hesitant to add more shoulder padding because my shoulders are sloped from a larger upper trapezius. I've bought jackets where I actually had to remove shoulder padding. Of course, I realize that a good m2m or bespoke suit will fix this problem, but while building this business I'm on a rather slim budget.[​IMG]Obviously, I'm in the middle. This picture clearly shows my shoulder structure. [​IMG]In this picture, you can see the "hollow" over my left shoulder. My right shoulder is even lower making it worse. I only ever altered the waist in this coat. Was one of the first suits I altered before I learned how to alter sleeve length or anything else more involved.


    I can get better pics of myself from the back and side shirtless and with some jackets I've recently altered in the shoulder area.
    Your help is greatly appreciated.
     
  15. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    They are darted I promise.

    Typically how long are the darts suppose to be?

    Is the waist the only part where the shirt does not fit?

    Am I at fault for the shirts not fitting correctly? I do not think I am, how would you handle the situation?


    I gave the same guy 4 of my purple label shirts :(
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2012
  16. ZirconiumZephyr

    ZirconiumZephyr Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice :)

    I was referring to a different jacket, sleeves definitely too long on this one ;)


    I might take it in and see if they are able to quote me, just out of interest. I've got another jacket that needs sleeves taking up anyway.


    Looks like I'll need to keep looking for a better fitting suit. It's just a bit of a pain I can't really try anything on! The 'best' suits I can find near me are Boss ones for $1200+ which is a little on the ridiculous side unfortunately. I'm just trying to decide whether it's worth gambling with ebay/classified suits or just go online MTM.
     
  17. 

    It's a m2m. I might try and take some better pictures once I get the pants hemmed and some new dress shoes.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2012
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What you can do is have the collar raised in the back but a proper fix includes adjusting the shoulder. Not an option on RTW. Does this happen regardless of the style of shirt collar you wear?

    Showing 1" isn't bad, 1/2 to 1" is probably normal. Issue may be a posture or slope of your shoulder issue.
     
  19. jawboneofa

    jawboneofa Senior member

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    Los Angeles
    I picked up this blazer secondhand and had some serious alterations done. It fit well in the shoulders and the length is good IMO, but it was huge everywhere else. Generally speaking, I'm happy with what my tailor did in bringing in the sides and adjusting the chest but I'm not happy with the way the skirt seems to be flaring out. Despos, any advice on what exactly to tell my tailor to do to correct this? I think the second picture shows what I am talking about best, but sorry that I only have the one view; I can post additional pictures if that would help. Oh, and the blazer's double-/side-vented if that helps.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    looks like he decided not to remake the side vents. its a time consuming job.
    that should have added to the price. he may have thought you would not have
    it done if you heard the true price. so he took in the sides without touching the vents.
    talk it over with him.
    what was the charge for the sides.
    ?
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2012

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