The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[brwood]

Bought a Spier & Mackay 3-piece off the rack for my wedding, want to get some fit/alteration advice on the jacket specifically. I bought a 44R

To my eyes, the jacket length looks good. I am concerned there is a slight amount of puckering/pulling at the button point -- did I get too small a size? Can this be let out? I think the lapels sit nicely on my chest and the collar well around my neck. Obviously sleeve length needs adjustment, but I am concerned about the rippling along the the back of my arms -- can this be helped? There are also some wrinkles/ripples across the back. How feasible is it that I can fix these things with alterations?

 

[Megakurth]

Looking for some advice / second opinion on options to salvage a jacket. Excuse the lighting as I tried to brighten it up.

Maker refuses to touch it again (it took 3 trips to Italy as sleeves went half way down my hand to which he finally acknowledged the measurement had been wrong). After seeing him in person he said it was “perfetto” and didn’t see any these issues. Disappointing as my last jacket and the initial fitting of this jacket did not have these issues.




It’s has a front balance issue, armholes likely too low, sits on collar in the back though opens in the front.

Took it to local Bespoke tailor who’s assistant said he wouldn’t touch it and basically told me to burn it and instead sell me on one of their MTM jackets (didn’t help his case).

All said, looking for second opinion on what could / should be done within reason (ie better shape in the front) before I continue/give up my search for someone to take on this sort of work.

 

[Despos]

its related to your low right shoulder.
Post a front view with the jacket unbuttoned.
Getting conflicting images between the front and back views

 

[ManuMICHEL]

Looking for some advice / second opinion on options to salvage a jacket. Excuse the lighting as I tried to brighten it up.

Maker refuses to touch it again (it took 3 trips to Italy as sleeves went half way down my hand to which he finally acknowledged the measurement had been wrong). After seeing him in person he said it was “perfetto” and didn’t see any these issues. Disappointing as my last jacket and the initial fitting of this jacket did not have these issues.


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It’s has a front balance issue, armholes likely too low, sits on collar in the back though opens in the front.

Took it to local Bespoke tailor who’s assistant said he wouldn’t touch it and basically told me to burn it and instead sell me on one of their MTM jackets (didn’t help his case).

All said, looking for second opinion on what could / should be done within reason (ie better shape in the front) before I continue/give up my search for someone to take on this sort of work.

Despos is right. The problem isn't necessarily the front balance of the jacket (Since it doesn't really look awful) but rather your low right shoulder, That makes it so the front of your jacket has that imbalance (One side collapsed over the waist, while the other is in relatively good condition) + what I would add is that this would be a problem of having "more back balance than front". Thats why you have little depressions of fabric in your back. BUT the main problem is the low right shoulder.
Please if anyone is more experienced correct me if im wrong.

 

[Despos]

Despos is right. The problem isn't necessarily the front balance of the jacket (Since it doesn't really look awful) but rather your low right shoulder, That makes it so the front of your jacket has that imbalance (One side collapsed over the waist, while the other is in relatively good condition) + what I would add is that this would be a problem of having "more back balance than front". Thats why you have little depressions of fabric in your back. BUT the main problem is the low right shoulder.
Please if anyone is more experienced correct me if im wrong.

Expecting to see the fronts swing open if he posts a picture with the jacket unbuttoned and the button and buttonhole not lining up.
This is caused by a short back balance and effects how the front panels hang.
Just a hunch from what you see in these photos

 

[Megakurth]

Expecting to see the fronts swing open if he posts a picture with the jacket unbuttoned and the button and buttonhole not lining up.
This is caused by a short back balance and effects how the front panels hang.
Just a hunch from what you see in these photos

Here’s a few pics of the jacket open

 

[Despos]

Button looks about 1” lower than the buttonhole. Jacket isn’t cut with the proper shoulder slope or front/back balance.
Nothing technically wrong about the space between the front edges when unbuttoned but if the jacket was balanced better the fronts would be closer or even touching when unbuttoned.

 

[Megakurth]

Button looks about 1” lower than the buttonhole. Jacket isn’t cut with the proper shoulder slope or front/back balance.
Nothing technically wrong about the space between the front edges when unbuttoned but if the jacket was balanced better the fronts would be closer or even touching when unbuttoned.

Appreciate the insight. The jacket happens to also be 2 cm longer than my other jackets with him. It’s as if he didn’t pay attention. I for some reason expected more after 5 other jackets. Last jacket which was same pattern didn’t have these same issues.

All said, outside of acceptance, what options do I have / you recommend? I wouldn’t care as much except for the fact that I had a different tailor commission pants which came out damn near perfect…

 

[Despos]

Appreciate the insight. The jacket happens to also be 2 cm longer than my other jackets with him. It’s as if he didn’t pay attention. I for some reason expected more after 5 other jackets. Last jacket which was same pattern didn’t have these same issues.

All said, outside of acceptance, what options do I have / you recommend? I wouldn’t care as much except for the fact that I had a different tailor commission pants which came out damn near perfect…

Have you talked with them about these fit issues?
Thats the first step, then see what they propose to do.

 

[Megakurth]

Have you talked with them about these fit issues?
Thats the first step, then see what they propose to do.

I have. The tailor doesn't see/refuses to acknowledge these issues and won’t do any more work on it. Unfortunately, this jacket has been plagued with issues from the get go.

Below are photos of jacket when it first arrived



Had a hard enough time convincing him the sleeves were off despite them going halfway down my hand..



When we met in person a few months back, he got defensive and indicated he felt he did enough for this jacket.

My only option at this point is to go elsewhere to “fix” (if that’s even possible).

 

[Despos]

My suggestions are always “what and how would I do it if I was making another jacket for you”
To correct everything and have it look right requires opening the jacket and recutting.
If they don’t offer a refund, it’s a write off.
Does the trouser maker make jackets? If not, ask him for a referral.

 

[wristandfeet]

Dear Chris or Other Expert Tailors,

I stumbled upon a very nice RTW blazer that would require some adjustments (as is the case for me on every RTW jacket I have tried). The collar roll is a signature problem of mine with all RTW jackets.

Per the pictures below, is the sufficiently well-fitted to warrant only minor adjustments - or does it appear to need major surgery/recutting? Many thanks for your advice!

 

[othertravel]

Can I get feedback on the following fit? This is a Canali drop 6, which has a decent amount of shoulder padding. I have square shoulders, so I’m wary about exaggerating the effect, but this looks relatively balanced to my eye. But again, would appreciate an objective perspective.

TIA.

 

[rd25]

@Despos could I please solicit your opinion again?

I have attached a new set of photos with the same jacket, now that I’ve been wearing it around a bit (apologies for the many wrinkles). I’ve also tried to take these with my more natural posture, I was standing quite a bit straighter than usual the last time.

What do you think of the fit? My left lapel seems to lay nicely, but the right is a bit raised to my eye.

How would you move forward if you were me regarding this jacket or future commissions?

Thank you!

 

[rd25]

@Despos could I please solicit your opinion again?

I have attached a new set of photos with the same jacket, now that I’ve been wearing it around a bit (apologies for the many wrinkles). I’ve also tried to take these with my more natural posture, I was standing quite a bit straighter than usual the last time.

What do you think of the fit? My left lapel seems to lay nicely, but the right is a bit raised to my eye.

How would you move forward if you were me regarding this jacket or future commissions?

Thank you!

Hello,

Sorry to be a bother. Does anyone have any input in this MTM jacket with these more updated photos?

Thank you in advance!