The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[JibranK]

Damn, was it a bad fit though? looking at it now?

I don't think so! It felt loose but it doesn't look it; I think I just wasn't used to the soft tailoring. And when I say drape fit/soft tailoring I don't mean the ridiculous Italian stuff that looks like a wool shirt; I mean the English stuff that SF members rightfully complain even the Row rarely turns out anymore.

It has me wanting to contact this same firm and asking if they can make me something using their original pattern for me from before I asked for changes...

The suit and odd jacket they made me look great after alterations but almost generic next to the beautiful drape I'm seeing in these photos I took of supposedly poor fit.

 

[carloapellido]

Talk to your tailor during the fittings phase. That is what the fittings are for. As Despos wrote approx...Too late now the pockets are sewn. This jacket in above photo does not have a significantly flared skirt. The front edge is just cut away extremely almost like a body coat.
If you want a flared skirt the jacket will accentuate the hips. As a woman's jacket must do to allow for the different body type. Why did you not have a photo with you in the jacket? It really is pointless to comment on the fit from the dummy.
If you want more waisted look to a coat from the front, then you are better off with a centre vent
Look forward to the photo of you in the jacket and after the garment has been pressed off.
Brendon

Thank you for your insight. I had two fittings since the last time I wrote here.

When I fit the garment the first time since I wrote here (I forgot to take a picture but I’ll do my best to describe), I did not like the shape around the waist. From the bottom of the armhole to the waist, the suit goes inwards. Then it goes straight down from the waist down to the bottom hem. This led me to have an aggressive Y shape instead of my desired X shape.

Hence, I talked to my tailor to take in the waist at the side seams (the ones that cross the pockets) to emphasize the waist and create a flared skirt. This was not easy, of course since the pockets had to be removed first and then reinstalled after the process of taking in the waist. Fortunately this is a success. The suit is almost done. Here’s the picture.

 

[stu len]

I just purchased this RTW herringbone jacket. I need to take it to the tailor to get the sleeves finished. Any advice as to any other alterations I should ask for? The vents are still tied. I think I may want to take it in at the chest a little as feels like there is quite a bit of room especially at the back. I'm showing more cuff than I'd like but that might be because my shirt is too long.

very decent fit, I'd leave it as is

 

[TroyStiffler]

*Let me know if this is the right place to post this question.*

I bought a suit from eBay and despite hanging it from a dedicated suit hanger to get rid if the wrinkles, I noticed some wrinkles under the lapel. My chest measures 40.25 and my usual suit size is a 42R. The suit in question measures 44.5 in the chest. The first picture is of the suit before I bought it and the second picture has the the wrinkles in question.

Do I need the tailors or the cleaners? What do you recommend to get rid of the wrinkling under the lapel?

Anyone know if Despos still active in this thread or forum?

 

[onemoretime]

*Let me know if this is the right place to post this question.*

I bought a suit from eBay and despite hanging it from a dedicated suit hanger to get rid if the wrinkles, I noticed some wrinkles under the lapel. My chest measures 40.25 and my usual suit size is a 42R. The suit in question measures 44.5 in the chest. The first picture is of the suit before I bought it and the second picture has the the wrinkles in question.

Do I need the tailors or the cleaners? What do you recommend to get rid of the wrinkling under the lapel?

Anyone know if Despos still active in this thread or forum?

Do you have a handheld steamer? I'd start there. If you don't have one, it's very worthwhile to get if you're thinking of continuing to shop on eBay (or even if you're not). Most things from eBay get shoved into small packages for shipping. I end up steaming almost everything as a first step

 

[TroyStiffler]

Do you have a handheld steamer? I'd start there. If you don't have one, it's very worthwhile to get if you're thinking of continuing to shop on eBay (or even if you're not). Most things from eBay get shoved into small packages for shipping. I end up steaming almost everything as a first step

I do have one with multiple settings, however I want to prevent having flat lapels. How would I iron it to preserve the lapel roll and get rid of the wrinkles?

 

[Despos]

*Let me know if this is the right place to post this question.*

I bought a suit from eBay and despite hanging it from a dedicated suit hanger to get rid if the wrinkles, I noticed some wrinkles under the lapel. My chest measures 40.25 and my usual suit size is a 42R. The suit in question measures 44.5 in the chest. The first picture is of the suit before I bought it and the second picture has the the wrinkles in question.

Do I need the tailors or the cleaners? What do you recommend to get rid of the wrinkling under the lapel?

Anyone know if Despos still active in this thread or forum?

Do not steam this. Will make it worse.
Lay the jacket on a firm pillow, with a cloth in between, lay the iron over the wrinkled area and hold it for 10 seconds or so. Don’t move the iron back and forth, just hold it on one spot. Lift the iron to move to another area. Should be fine.
Post a picture wearing the jacket unbuttoned with your arms relaxed at your side. Camera straight on, not at an angle. If there is another reason for this, it will show up in a picture taken like this.

 

[hitsuji]

*Let me know if this is the right place to post this question.*

I bought a suit from eBay and despite hanging it from a dedicated suit hanger to get rid if the wrinkles, I noticed some wrinkles under the lapel. My chest measures 40.25 and my usual suit size is a 42R. The suit in question measures 44.5 in the chest. The first picture is of the suit before I bought it and the second picture has the the wrinkles in question.

Do I need the tailors or the cleaners? What do you recommend to get rid of the wrinkling under the lapel?

Anyone know if Despos still active in this thread or forum?

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/05/how-to-correct-a-flattened-lapel.html this video has always worked for me. Please use a press cloth and use lower temperatures first before going up (put lots of force when pressing)

 

[ppk]

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/05/how-to-correct-a-flattened-lapel.html this video has always worked for me. Please use a press cloth and use lower temperatures first before going up (put lots of force when pressing)

This is exactly the technique I use and it has always worked for me as well.

 

[onemoretime]

I do have one with multiple settings, however I want to prevent having flat lapels. How would I iron it to preserve the lapel roll and get rid of the wrinkles?

Try the other suggestions as they seem more familiar with the issue. Apologies for the miscommunication, I didn't mean a steam iron. I meant a handheld steamer (that you use on something while it's hanging). I have steamed out the lapel and chest wrinkles from Ebay finds with them many times.

 

[TroyStiffler]

Do not steam this. Will make it worse.
Lay the jacket on a firm pillow, with a cloth in between, lay the iron over the wrinkled area and hold it for 10 seconds or so. Don’t move the iron back and forth, just hold it on one spot. Lift the iron to move to another area. Should be fine.
Post a picture wearing the jacket unbuttoned with your arms relaxed at your side. Camera straight on, not at an angle. If there is another reason for this, it will show up in a picture taken like thist

Do not steam this. Will make it worse.
Lay the jacket on a firm pillow, with a cloth in between, lay the iron over the wrinkled area and hold it for 10 seconds or so. Don’t move the iron back and forth, just hold it on one spot. Lift the iron to move to another area. Should be fine.
Post a picture wearing the jacket unbuttoned with your arms relaxed at your side. Camera straight on, not at an angle. If there is another reason for this, it will show up in a picture taken like this.

Thank you for your response. I have a clothes iron with multiple including a wool setting. Should I keep the water reservoir empty so no steam comes out?

Also, with the picture you mentioned, do you mean take a picture of the jacket in it's present condition, but unbuttoned right?

 

[hitsuji]

Thank you for your response. I have a clothes iron with multiple including a wool setting. Should I keep the water reservoir empty so no steam comes out?

Also, with the picture you mentioned, do you mean take a picture of the jacket in it's present condition, but unbuttoned right?

You need to add water to your iron just make the steam is off and/or dont press the steam button. Some irons just have a pressing function just for this

 

[TroyStiffler]

You need to add water to your iron just make the steam is off and/or dont press the steam button. Some irons just have a pressing function just for this

Oh. The iron I have doesn't have a steam button. It has a button to spray water, but that's it

 

[TroyStiffler]

Do not steam this. Will make it worse.
Lay the jacket on a firm pillow, with a cloth in between, lay the iron over the wrinkled area and hold it for 10 seconds or so. Don’t move the iron back and forth, just hold it on one spot. Lift the iron to move to another area. Should be fine.
Post a picture wearing the jacket unbuttoned with your arms relaxed at your side. Camera straight on, not at an angle. If there is another reason for this, it will show up in a picture taken like this.

Here's a picture of it unbuttoned. Let me know if this works. What differences do you notice between buttoned and unbuttoned?

 

[Despos]

Static pictures aren’t always accurate.
Wanted to see if the lapel was rolling past the button due to a short collar. Wanted to see if the button and buttonhole are aligned when unbuttoned.
You are leaning to your right on both pictures and it might be effecting the fit.
If either of these showed up in the picture, it should be corrected if they are contributing to the wrinkle so the issue doesn’t return.
Looks like this just needs to be pressed. It’s a very minor thing.