The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Brendon]

Hi all, I just picked up a nice Samuelsohn suit from my tailor. Got home and noticed he sewed the collar back on through the lining. Am I right to be annoyed at this? Sure nobody will see it, but it just seems sloppy. I don’t mind paying whatever for alterations provided they’re done well. Isn’t the liner supposed hide stuff like this?

I would not normally openly be critical of efforts to sew. However this result is unnecessary in that it looks like the person has correctly unpicked the lining at the back neck to put the collar back on. What is bizarre is that they must have sewn up the lining before sewing on the collar. Pretty low- grade work in the planning and as a bonus the felling stitch not performed correctly on the lining. The undercollar is sewn on with a good strong stitch through the melton and cloth so the lining is just in the way when doing this, so always better to have this open
I would not be happy with that effort. But if you did not want to worry too much about it, no one will see this whilst you are wearing it.
The operation of fixing a dropped should is major. In theory the whole sleeve should come out. I think $180 is a bargain if done correctly. Hope the suit gets well worn
nb you can markedly improve the effects of a drop shoulder with some exercise
Regards
Brendon

 

[Brendon]

Sorry I also just saw you mentioned the sewer is a bespoke tailor, and as I am trying not to cause offence to the person sewing the collar on... but that is surely not the sewing of a bespoke tailor. I have friends in their 90's who are retired bespoke tailors and they wouldn't churn that out half blind as they are. $3000 or not. a felling stitch is one of the basic and first things you are shown, and those are all wrong.
respectfully
Brendon

 

[FLtheatretech]

Sorry I also just saw you mentioned the sewer is a bespoke tailor, and as I am trying not to cause offence to the person sewing the collar on... but that is surely not the sewing of a bespoke tailor. I have friends in their 90's who are retired bespoke tailors and they wouldn't churn that out half blind as they are. $3000 or not. a felling stitch is one of the basic and first things you are shown, and those are all wrong.
respectfully
Brendon

I took it back to him and expressed my disappointment with the work. He removed the collar and redid it. He did protest a bit, stating that with alterations tailoring, it wouldn’t be a factory copy. I didn’t notice until yesterday, that the “made in Canada” tag was just resewn to the inner side of the collar. Originally, the two folded edges were up under the collar and hidden. Anyway, the work was redone, much more neatly. Now one doesn’t see the stitching between the lining and the collar. He stated it was difficult to sew because there wasn’t a lot of fabric for the needle to grab at the seam. I watched him do the work and it gave me a new appreciation for the complexity. There are so many layers in the coat, it looks like very difficult work to me!

 

[Brendon]

I took it back to him and expressed my disappointment with the work. He removed the collar and redid it. He did protest a bit, stating that with alterations tailoring, it wouldn’t be a factory copy. I didn’t notice until yesterday, that the “made in Canada” tag was just resewn to the inner side of the collar. Originally, the two folded edges were up under the collar and hidden. Anyway, the work was redone, much more neatly. Now one doesn’t see the stitching between the lining and the collar. He stated it was difficult to sew because there wasn’t a lot of fabric for the needle to grab at the seam. I watched him do the work and it gave me a new appreciation for the complexity. There are so many layers in the coat, it looks like very difficult work to me!

Look I am glad it ended well but I will say there is a way and a series of steps in order that stop the stitches getting in each other's way. The lining sits slightly higher than the base of the undercollar so there should be no problem even with a lightweight 150's. Yes, the factories leave small inlays, but I still say a tailor should have no problem putting a collar back together. The collar mainly comes off for the alteration to Stub or Stump the collar. It is easily done. When done badly the collar is just lowered down the back. The proper way to do this is to square the shoulder and never more than 3/8" is to undo the shoulder seam as far as you can without getting into the sleeve. Taking in the back seam only. Ditto for the lining. This stops the crease behind the neck. Any more than 3/8ths" and it is balance question as well, a far more difficult alteration.
I've had my rant, glad it turned out ok
all the best
Brendon

 

[othertravel]

Looks clean from the back! What were the issues?? Does not Have a Harry Rosen tag?

The back was fine, but the suit wasn't sitting properly on my shoulders. Specifically, there was a huge collar gap that they were unsuccessful at fixing - an issue that I've never had before. My first and last attempt at MTM with Spier.

 

[whorishconsumer]

My tailor, who I value dearly, has a policy of not letting the back center seam of jackets, as he believes it causes unsightly rolls/wrinkling to appear. However, given that in some cases this is the only seam allowance given, I'm wondering if there's some additional technique that might offset this wrinkling?

Edit: Apologies, As I asked this question here two years ago. I would still be interested if there are any suggestions for offsetting the effects of letting out the back seam, if there are any.

 

[Jamesbond1]

The back was fine, but the suit wasn't sitting properly on my shoulders. Specifically, there was a huge collar gap that they were unsuccessful at fixing - an issue that I've never had before. My first and last attempt at MTM with Spier.

Even bespoke could take time to get a close to perfect fit. And most definitely off the rack is not mostly made for you so that is also far from perfect fit for many.

With your square shoulders this suit fits far better than all that Tom Ford off the rack from HR IMO

 

[othertravel]

Even bespoke could take time to get a close to perfect fit. And most definitely off the rack is not mostly made for you so that is also far from perfect fit for many.

With your square shoulders this suit fits far better than all that Tom Ford off the rack from HR IMO

if I stay perfectly still, then the suit looks fine. But even a slight movement was causing the jacket to open up at the neck. The suit just wasn’t cut well to my measurements. A very disappointing experience.

OTR fits well for me most of the time, and I haven’t had issues with collar gap in the past. This was the only piece that ever did this.

Edit: to Rick’s credit, he did offer to make it right. And Spier offers a good for value-for-money proposition if their fits work for you. (Personally, I like their shirts.)

 

[Despos]

Here’s an MTM I had done a few years back. It had some issues, but the back was almost perfect.

View attachment 2245693

@othertravel
Take a close look where the jacket shoulder reaches the collar.
The left shoulder blade is more prominent than the right and the muscle at your neck is bigger on the left than the right. The left blade fills in the back part more than the right side,
You see a small wrinkle on the right side just below the collar because you are lower at the neck point as well as the shoulder point on the right side. Square the back shoulder .25” and it will lay just right.
The left side is higher at the neck and you if you add .25” more length on the back shoulder at the neck point it will clean up the slight drag at the bottom of the back scye on the left side.
Left side needs more length over the blade and the right side needs less length at the neck.
Look at the back under the collar and compare the right and left sides until you see the slight difference.
There may be some shoulder adjustment needed on the front side but you can’t tell from just the back picture.

 

[othertravel]

@othertravel
Take a close look where the jacket shoulder reaches the collar.
The left shoulder blade is more prominent than the right and the muscle at your neck is bigger on the left than the right. The left blade fills in the back part more than the right side,
You see a small wrinkle on the right side just below the collar because you are lower at the neck point as well as the shoulder point on the right side. Square the back shoulder .25” and it will lay just right.
The left side is higher at the neck and you if you add .25” more length on the back shoulder at the neck point it will clean up the slight drag at the bottom of the back scye on the left side.
Left side needs more length over the blade and the right side needs less length at the neck.
Look at the back under the collar and compare the right and left sides until you see the slight difference.
There may be some shoulder adjustment needed on the front side but you can’t tell from just the back picture.

Thank you for the detailed diagnosis! I feel inspired to try and get it fixed.

 

[Despos]

The right shoulder is an easy fix, easier than the left side due to a lack of outlet on the seam. Wouldn't t bother with the left side, it’s not a big deal as is.
Point of my post was to know what your fitting issues are. If the tailor doesn’t see it, you can have a conversation about it.

 

[hdub]

Hello! This is my second pair of pants ordered from Luxire in a mid weight 270g cotton. I know it’s not ideal for evaluating drape but I’d like to get my fit as close as possible before ordering some cavalry twill and flannels.

I think the seat is too tight. Any recommendations on things to address? Thanks!

 

[BB_Adept]

Cross posting from the thread I update once in a while. Sleeves are too long, bit too much room around the waist and a slight neck bulge. It's s&m neo cut 2 size 46, bought this on final sale. Neck bulge is bothering me a bit any suggestions on what to alter? Apart from that I really like the sports coat, plenty of room to move around , good length, nice fabric, etc.

 

[Brendon]

Here’s an MTM I had done a few years back. It had some issues, but the back was almost perfect.

View attachment 2245693

Here’s an MTM I had done a few years back. It had some issues, but the back was almost perfect.

View attachment 2245693

The suit looks mtm cleanish from the back.. but "I" am definitely not fond of that cut. This is for your next suit... from what I can see from the one photo. Your stand feet turned outward. Your right leg is longer so lengthen right leg. The biggest problem for me is the natural balance in that the coat because it is probably cut a little to crooked to get the coat up on the neck as mtm usually is the coat makes your hip and but the dominant feature. Your shoulders as they are narrow lose the battle with this balance giving the cut to be a little less traditional for a male( from the 1870s onwards to the 2000) . Cut is the most, most important thing. It is what people looking at you see. From distance and near distance. I am not fond of side vents. They don't allow the coat to be as elegant from the front. They diminish the look from the front which is the most important.The line is different in a very small way. You can see this also in this photo. By choosing to make the coat look so clean you will lose some comfort. The right shoulder point tightness is one example. I prefer a suit with a stronger presence. You of course may not and as it's your money you are the best arbiter of this.
with kindness
Brendon

 

[Ranciere69]

I am headed to a tailor next week for a first fitting with the garment having done the intake. This is my first time—anyone have any pointers on questions I should ask, things I should look out for? What they wish they’d known going into such a thing?