The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Timmers]

Reposting from the MTM/Bespoke Trousers Thread as I haven’t been able to get a response there. Have had these pair of trousers made via copying a previously altered pair of mine. Overall I think it fits quite lovely although I think could do with some letting out of the seat and thigh. Would there be any other recommendations regarding fit as I would like to commission from them again

Letting out the seat/hips will help those pleats stay closed. They are opening WAY too much whilst standing.

Not sure what the pleat depth is, but I would go deeper on the next pair (1.5" inch for the 'primary' pleat will suffice, 0.5" inch for the secondary).

I would consider reducing the back rise, too. This will help stop the cloth sagging below your seat/thigh.

 

[Timmers]

Hey!
I received these MTM pants from Proper Cloth today. It doesn't fit well.
This is the first time I ordered MTM.

Here are the problems that I see with the fit:
1. Crotch area: Is it due to too much inches in front raise?
2. Too much fabric form thigh to knee. I guess reducing thigh by an inch or so will fix it?
3. Back rise too small?

Any suggestions?
I used the measurements suggested by Proper Cloth.

Just looks too slim everywhere. I can't imagine the cotton cloth helping too much either. The cloth on the back thigh is not exactly excess. Infact, these trousers would drape far better if you had much more added to the thighs imo. The trousers should ideally follow one straight line from top to bottom, unless you prefer much a slimmer/shaped fit. If you reduce the thigh, it will just become tighter. I would go with a higher rise overall. Get them to sit at your naval (belly button).

Push for a remake if possible.

 

[GaiusM]

Not sure where else to post this.

I lost a button on a William Lockie shawl cardigan today. The problem is it is the small button at the top, the one that closes the 'lapels' for added warmth, smaller than the main buttons and the replacement.

Any recommendations for replacement Lockie buttons? Not sure of the size on that one. Will be going to local sewing store but I'd really like an exact match.

 

[DorianGreen]

Not sure where else to post this.

I lost a button on a William Lockie shawl cardigan today. The problem is it is the small button at the top, the one that closes the 'lapels' for added warmth, smaller than the main buttons and the replacement.

Any recommendations for replacement Lockie buttons? Not sure of the size on that one. Will be going to local sewing store but I'd really like an exact match.

Best thing would be writing to Lockie and getting an original button, in my opinion.

 

[hitsuji]

Not sure where else to post this.

I lost a button on a William Lockie shawl cardigan today. The problem is it is the small button at the top, the one that closes the 'lapels' for added warmth, smaller than the main buttons and the replacement.

Any recommendations for replacement Lockie buttons? Not sure of the size on that one. Will be going to local sewing store but I'd really like an exact match.

I’d email Lockie and they’d be atleast happy to provide you what size the buttons they use are and then I’d replace all of them if you can’t find one of the same.

If you’ve bought directly from them, I’d sure they’d also be happy to send you a button if you pay P&P

 

[hitsuji]

Letting out the seat/hips will help those pleats stay closed. They are opening WAY too much whilst standing.

Not sure what the pleat depth is, but I would go deeper on the next pair (1.5" inch for the 'primary' pleat will suffice, 0.5" inch for the secondary).

I would consider reducing the back rise, too. This will help stop the cloth sagging below your seat/thigh.

Yes, I did think the pleats did open a bit when standing. Depth wise I think both of them are 0.5” which was my fault really not being specific what depth I’d like but they have said they can happily accommodate on the next pairs. Im planning to get 2 more commissions by them so I’ll do them one by one so I can improve the fit.

Is there a way to measure how much to reduce the back rise so I can feedback to them?

 

[whorishconsumer]

I had my tailor extend a pair of suit trousers to their max and then some. I thought we we just going for the extent of excess fabric included with the trousers, but they opted to add additional fabric, both on the interior and exterior of the waistband, to accomplish the amount of extension believed required. Unfortunately they requisitioned some mismatched fabric they had laying around for this purpose, in order to preserve the self fabric for the cuffs and length of the legs. The result is a good job in terms of rebuilding the waistband, but with a square of obviously-distinct fabric at the center back.

Tell me how appalling and unbecoming this is for a man of fine taste.

 

[Peak and Pine]

Tell me how appalling and unbecoming this is for a man of fine taste.

Not at all. Quite clever and well sewn.

 

[DorianGreen]

I had my tailor extend a pair of suit trousers to their max and then some. I thought we we just going for the extent of excess fabric included with the trousers, but they opted to add additional fabric, both on the interior and exterior of the waistband, to accomplish the amount of extension believed required. Unfortunately they requisitioned some mismatched fabric they had laying around for this purpose, in order to preserve the self fabric for the cuffs and length of the legs. The result is a good job in terms of rebuilding the waistband, but with a square of obviously-distinct fabric at the center back.

View attachment 2074917

Tell me how appalling and unbecoming this is for a man of fine taste.

Extremely appaling and unbecoming. Actually I wouldn't even accept a patch of the same fabric.

Furthermore, before doing such an alteration they should have made you aware of it.

 

[Timmers]

Yes, I did think the pleats did open a bit when standing. Depth wise I think both of them are 0.5” which was my fault really not being specific what depth I’d like but they have said they can happily accommodate on the next pairs. Im planning to get 2 more commissions by them so I’ll do them one by one so I can improve the fit.

Is there a way to measure how much to reduce the back rise so I can feedback to them?

Just below the back waistband, pin up a few CMs of cloth horizontally and see how it impacts the fit. From there you can determine how much should be removed by measuring the pinned cloth. I would take images and show them too.

 

[User888]

Hi everyone, I was looking for some honest feedback and was redirected to this thread. I appreciate any input. I'm debating whether to keep this jacket, size up, or look elsewhere for a better fit to my body. Love the fabric and I think the waist and back could be altered but I'm staring at those shoulder divots that indicate the shoulder might be too narrow for me. The jacket doesn't have a lot of padding and has a spalla camicia shoulder but I don't think it's enough to offset my sloped shoulders. Perhaps sizing up would solve this but then I guess I'll have to bring the jacket in a far amount and I'm not sure if that will change the balance too much.
Let's hear your thoughts. For reference in 84kg and 1.8 with a relatively athletic built.

 

[DorianGreen]

Hi everyone, I was looking for some honest feedback and was redirected to this thread. I appreciate any input. I'm debating whether to keep this jacket, size up, or look elsewhere for a better fit to my body. Love the fabric and I think the waist and back could be altered but I'm staring at those shoulder divots that indicate the shoulder might be too narrow for me. The jacket doesn't have a lot of padding and has a spalla camicia shoulder but I don't think it's enough to offset my sloped shoulders. Perhaps sizing up would solve this but then I guess I'll have to bring the jacket in a far amount and I'm not sure if that will change the balance too much.
Let's hear your thoughts. For reference in 84kg and 1.8 with a relatively athletic built.

View attachment 2075621 View attachment 2075623 View attachment 2075625 View attachment 2075627 View attachment 2075629

I like the jacket (lovely cloth) and how it fits you. Yes, the shoulders could be a tad wider, but they don't look bad. This is definitely your size, if you size up, this will affect irreparably the overall balance.

 

[FragataLibertad]

Hi All, I'm trying my first MTM suit and shirt through Proper Cloth. I noticed the collar roll and fact that the suit jacket does not show enough shirt cuff. I also don't like how aggressively the shirt sleeve twists in on my arm. Any other thoughts on the fit?

 

[Peak and Pine]

Extremely appaling and unbecoming. Actually I wouldn't even accept a patch of the same fabric.

Furthermore, before doing such an alteration they should have made you aware of it.

Your posts often make me laugh, seldom in merriment.

As one who wields a mean needle and thread in fixing up his own stuff, I admire creativity in this category while others sit on the sidelines writing posts as you do constantly critiquing and almost always based on a whim or a personal preference with little to back it up except whatever you have stuck in your head as to what is right or wrong, or terribly wrong as you might hyperbolically phrase it, and in italics of course. Give it a rest.

 

[LJ1891]

I had my tailor extend a pair of suit trousers to their max and then some. I thought we we just going for the extent of excess fabric included with the trousers, but they opted to add additional fabric, both on the interior and exterior of the waistband, to accomplish the amount of extension believed required. Unfortunately they requisitioned some mismatched fabric they had laying around for this purpose, in order to preserve the self fabric for the cuffs and length of the legs. The result is a good job in terms of rebuilding the waistband, but with a square of obviously-distinct fabric at the center back.

View attachment 2074917

Tell me how appalling and unbecoming this is for a man of fine taste.

You saved an old friend. To do so is never appalling and is actually quite becoming.