The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[vik93]

Seldom does an rtw jacket appearing in this thread look as good as this one does on you, and with zero alterations. Snip the bastings and leave it alone. Everything about this, the shoulders, the sleeve length, the body length, the girth, everything is fine. Also a great looking jacket.

Thank you for this, very appreciated.

 

[FLtheatretech]

I picked up a Samuelson suit from the tailor today, having had the sleeves finished. Is this unevenness acceptable or OK?

 

[FLtheatretech]

I picked up a Samuelson suit from the tailor today, having had the sleeves finished. Is this unevenness acceptable or OK?

An update: Got home, examined the interior of the sleeve of the suit, and I find they sewed through the lining to attach the buttons (top sleeve). Compare with the bottom sleeve of a different Samuelsohn coat of mine. The problem is, the shoddy sleeve work was done by a tailor who seems brilliant with other adjustments elsewhere on the garment. Does anyone know of a good tailor in Orlando, FL???

 

[Peak and Pine]

An update: Got home, examined the interior of the sleeve of the suit, and I find they sewed through the lining to attach the buttons (top sleeve). Compare with the bottom sleeve of a different Samuelsohn coat of mine. The problem is, the shoddy sleeve work was done by a tailor who seems brilliant with other adjustments elsewhere on the garment. Does anyone know of a good tailor in Orlando, FL???

The sleeve end is not uneven. What you're showing is the end of the sleeve at the inside seam, which is the high point of the sleeve, both sides can then taper slightly down to the overlapping front seam, because sleeves are often purposely not cut straight across, but are higher in the rear. As for the buttons being sewn through the lining, why do you care? This is often done with non working buttons.

Tailors in Orlando? At Disney World, I think Giuseppe might be taking on work when he's not fussing with Pinocchio.

 

[FLtheatretech]

The sleeve end is not uneven. What you're showing is the end of the sleeve at the inside seam, which is the high point of the sleeve, both sides can then taper slightly down to the overlapping front seam, because sleeves are often purposely not cut straight across, but are higher in the rear. As for the buttons being sewn through the lining, why do you care? This is often done with non working buttons.

Tailors in Orlando? At Disney World, I think Giuseppe might be taking on work when he's not fussing with Pinocchio.

I’m not certain I follow your explanation. I examined my other tailored jackets, and the edge of the sleeves don’t make a slight V shape where they meet at the inner seam. I’m not an expert, but it seems that the fabric wasn’t folded under evenly as the sleeve was finished.

Regarding the buttons being sewn through the lining, this is also the first time I’ve seen that done and it’s frankly sloppy. My problem is this, the lady who finished the sleeves on another coat of mine did a beautiful job, even sleeve ends, no buttons sewn through the lining. The guy who did the sloppy sleeve finishing, does great work fixing collar roll, and things of that nature, things that I’d ask the sleeve finishing lady to fix and she’d say, “I don’t see it.” I really don’t want to have to take garments to two different tailors based on ability and quality of work, but that’s what it’s looking like I’ll have to do in this Mickey Mouse town.

 

[paxonus]

I’m not certain I follow your explanation. I examined my other tailored jackets, and the edge of the sleeves don’t make a slight V shape where they meet at the inner seam. I’m not an expert, but it seems that the fabric wasn’t folded under evenly as the sleeve was finished.

Regarding the buttons being sewn through the lining, this is also the first time I’ve seen that done and it’s frankly sloppy. My problem is this, the lady who finished the sleeves on another coat of mine did a beautiful job, even sleeve ends, no buttons sewn through the lining. The guy who did the sloppy sleeve finishing, does great work fixing collar roll, and things of that nature, things that I’d ask the sleeve finishing lady to fix and she’d say, “I don’t see it.” I really don’t want to have to take garments to two different tailors based on ability and quality of work, but that’s what it’s looking like I’ll have to do in this Mickey Mouse town.

Lay the sleeve down flat, folded at the seam in question. There should be a straight line across the end of the sleeve. But it may be at an angle, decreasing toward the seam.

 

[nevaeh]

I’m not certain I follow your explanation. I examined my other tailored jackets, and the edge of the sleeves don’t make a slight V shape where they meet at the inner seam. I’m not an expert, but it seems that the fabric wasn’t folded under evenly as the sleeve was finished.

Regarding the buttons being sewn through the lining, this is also the first time I’ve seen that done and it’s frankly sloppy. My problem is this, the lady who finished the sleeves on another coat of mine did a beautiful job, even sleeve ends, no buttons sewn through the lining. The guy who did the sloppy sleeve finishing, does great work fixing collar roll, and things of that nature, things that I’d ask the sleeve finishing lady to fix and she’d say, “I don’t see it.” I really don’t want to have to take garments to two different tailors based on ability and quality of work, but that’s what it’s looking like I’ll have to do in this Mickey Mouse town.

How does the inner seam look when you wear the jacket? That's perhaps the true test.

The buttons looks sloppy. But it's seems an aesthetic issue, not a functional one. If it bothers you, take it back to the original tailor and ask him to sew it through the cloth only, and not the lining. You can also resew the buttons yourself; it's fairly easy. Simon Crompton has a guide on YouTube (link).

 

[FLtheatretech]

How does the inner seam look when you wear the jacket? That's perhaps the true test.

The buttons looks sloppy. But it's seems an aesthetic issue, not a functional one. If it bothers you, take it back to the original tailor and ask him to sew it through the cloth only, and not the lining. You can also resew the buttons yourself; it's fairly easy. Simon Crompton has a guide on YouTube (link).

Yeah, I don’t think it looks so great, in fact, that’s how I noticed it. I looked down and saw the slight V shape in the edge of both sleeves along my wrists when my hands were in an inner wrist, thumbs upward orientation (think texting on phone orientation.) I pointed it out to the tailor who said something about the structure of the jacket that didn’t make sense. Getting home and seeing the buttons sewn through the lining just kind of confirmed this was a sloppy job.

 

[nevaeh]

Yeah, I don’t think it looks so great, in fact, that’s how I noticed it. I looked down and saw the slight V shape in the edge of both sleeves along my wrists when my hands were in an inner wrist, thumbs upward orientation (think texting on phone orientation.) I pointed it out to the tailor who said something about the structure of the jacket that didn’t make sense. Getting home and seeing the buttons sewn through the lining just kind of confirmed this was a sloppy job.

I looked through all my jackets and they all have a V to a varying degree. The sleeves are either from a reputable Hong Kong-based maker or have been altered by a local tailor I respect. Take this with a grain of salt, since I’m not a tailor, but the V might not be a functional issue, either—or might even be purposeful.

 

[FLtheatretech]

I looked through all my jackets and they all have a V to a varying degree. The sleeves are either from a reputable Hong Kong-based maker or have been altered by a local tailor I respect. Take this with a grain of salt, since I’m not a tailor, but the V might not be a functional issue, either—or might even be purposeful.

Wow, I appreciate you taking a look. This is why I come here, to ask the experts and enthusiasts. Going forward, I’ll take jackets and trousers to this guy for body alterations, etc. I’ll then take the jackets to the other lady for sleeve finishing as she won’t go through the lining. I don’t have many tailored garments, but my other three don’t really V. Maybe I got lucky? Additionally, when I fold the sleeves along the inner seam, the sleeve edge does curve, it’s not a straight line, angled or not, as the poster above suggested it should be. Thanks again for the info!

 

[gimpwiz]

My local alterationist insisted that sleeves should finish at an angle to shirts. I politely asked her to redo it flat. She's not wrong per se, some people like that, but I think it looks cheap. I've seen a good number of jackets that Vee in at the cut but I think it's not great either. I suspect it's on purpose. You can probably ask the guy not to.

 

[plyonsla]

Question regarding shoulder fit issue, specifically right side shoulder. There is an odd imperfection in my right shoulder, highlighted below. It has the effect of making shoulders uneven. This is a bespoke coat from a Savile Row trained tailor. I have even shoulders, and I’ve never had issues before in MTM and OTR coats with shoulders looking odd. Also worth noting, in the first fitting, there was a weird divot in the right shoulder in that same area that I think the tailor ironed our. @Despos Any thoughts what issue is or if it can be fixed?

 

[othertravel]

Question regarding shoulder fit issue, specifically right side shoulder. There is an odd imperfection in my right shoulder, highlighted below. It has the effect of making shoulders uneven. This is a bespoke coat from a Savile Row trained tailor. I have even shoulders, and I’ve never had issues before in MTM and OTR coats with shoulders looking odd. Also worth noting, in the first fitting, there was a weird divot in the right shoulder in that same area that I think the tailor ironed our. @Despos Any thoughts what issue is or if it can be fixed? View attachment 2056053 View attachment 2056055

Wear it with a dress shirt - that might fix it.

Wearing it with a t-shirt will throw of the balance of the jacket.

 

[plyonsla]

Wear it with a dress shirt - that might fix it.

Wearing it with a t-shirt will throw of the balance of the jacket.

Looks the same with a dress shirt

 

[Andrews1980]

Question regarding shoulder fit issue, specifically right side shoulder. There is an odd imperfection in my right shoulder, highlighted below. It has the effect of making shoulders uneven. This is a bespoke coat from a Savile Row trained tailor. I have even shoulders, and I’ve never had issues before in MTM and OTR coats with shoulders looking odd. Also worth noting, in the first fitting, there was a weird divot in the right shoulder in that same area that I think the tailor ironed our. @Despos Any thoughts what issue is or if it can be fixed? View attachment 2056053 View attachment 2056055

Best to post front, back and side picture as the issue is not always where you think.

The neck circle does look a tad tight to me, but hard to tell with single picture. Also looks a straight neck point.

Posy all the pics and you'll stand a chance.

BTW, any reason you haven't been back to the Savile Row tailor and shown it to him instead?