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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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Hey all, am I correct that the buttons not aligning with the buttonholes is a left-right balance issue here? Is there any way to fix this or make it less pronounced?
20230822_090227.jpg
 

DorianGreen

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Hey all, am I correct that the buttons not aligning with the buttonholes is a left-right balance issue here? Is there any way to fix this or make it less pronounced?
View attachment 2011931

Difficult to say from just one picture. I don't see a big difference on the bottom line between the two quarters.
If you button the jacket, do you see/feel any pulling/distortion?
 

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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Difficult to say from just one picture. I don't see a big difference on the bottom line between the two quarters.
If you button the jacket, do you see/feel any pulling/distortion?
Yes a little distortion when I button, feels like I have to pull my left side up to meet the buttonhole. But you're right that the bottom of the jacket is even, so I'm wondering if it's not a balance issue and all I have to do is move the button slightly.
20230822_091948.jpg
 
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DorianGreen

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Yes a little distortion when I button, feels like I have to pull my left side up to meet the buttonhole. But you're right that the button of the jacket is even, so I'm wondering if it's not a balance issue and all I have to do is move the button slightly.
View attachment 2011937

I'd say it's a minor issue: you may have it fixed by a tailor, but in my opinion it's not really necessary.
 

philosophe

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Yes a little distortion when I button, feels like I have to pull my left side up to meet the buttonhole. But you're right that the button of the jacket is even, so I'm wondering if it's not a balance issue and all I have to do is move the button slightly.
View attachment 2011937
Posture-wise, your left shoulder looks lower than your right. Hence some disparity in how the coat hangs.
 

AriGold

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breakaway01

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Any thoughts guys?
Not a tailor but to me you have a low right shoulder so there is some collapsing of the right side of the jacket body. Sleeve pitch might be a little off; side view would help. But this looks like linen (?) so maybe some of this is just rumpling of the sleeve.
 

hysteria

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Would you be able to kindly offer some suggestions to improve the fit of this pair of cotton trousers?

Here's what I'm thinking:
- Add extra 0.75" to the pelvis as it seems a bit tight
- Inc back rise by 1cm?
- Increase width of thigh and knee by 0.5-1cm?

I'm still not great at identifying the source of fit issues. Not looking for this to be super roomy and fit like wool trousers. As these are cotton chinos, I want them to sit a bit closer to the body and slimmer, as they will be worn with slimmer tops i.e. polos, so looking for minor fit improvements here.
 

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george325

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Hi all - would you be able to offer feedback on the fit of this Spier & Mackay suit? It’s from their core line, slim 40R. A few notes:
- I had the tailor take in the side seams of the jacket and hem the sleeves. He also brought in the waist and seat of the trousers, and hemmed the legs.
- I am considering whether to have the legs tapered as they seem a little roomy.
- The left sleeve appears a tad shorter than the right arm. My left arm is longer than the right but my tailor didn’t take this into account. It’s not extremely noticeable but I think it could be lengthened 1/4”
- I am debating in the future whether to size down to a 38R. The shoulders are touch wider than my shoulder bone and there seems to be some excess room in the chest. I think this is visible if you focus on the pocket area of the jacket front. Prior to the alterations, there was a lot of excess fabric in the back right near the armpit area that has since been removed.
 

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george325

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Hi all - would you be able to offer feedback on the fit of this Spier & Mackay suit? It’s from their core line, slim 40R. A few notes:
- I had the tailor take in the side seams of the jacket and hem the sleeves. He also brought in the waist and seat of the trousers, and hemmed the legs.
- I am considering whether to have the legs tapered as they seem a little roomy.
- The left sleeve appears a tad shorter than the right arm. My left arm is longer than the right but my tailor didn’t take this into account. It’s not extremely noticeable but I think it could be lengthened 1/4”
- I am debating in the future whether to size down to a 38R. The shoulders are touch wider than my shoulder bone and there seems to be some excess room in the chest. I think this is visible if you focus on the pocket area of the jacket front. Prior to the alterations, there was a lot of excess fabric in the back right near the armpit area that has since been removed.
Any thoughts?
 

Testudo_Aubreii

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Hi all - would you be able to offer feedback on the fit of this Spier & Mackay suit? It’s from their core line, slim 40R. A few notes:
- I had the tailor take in the side seams of the jacket and hem the sleeves. He also brought in the waist and seat of the trousers, and hemmed the legs.
- I am considering whether to have the legs tapered as they seem a little roomy.
- The left sleeve appears a tad shorter than the right arm. My left arm is longer than the right but my tailor didn’t take this into account. It’s not extremely noticeable but I think it could be lengthened 1/4”
- I am debating in the future whether to size down to a 38R. The shoulders are touch wider than my shoulder bone and there seems to be some excess room in the chest. I think this is visible if you focus on the pocket area of the jacket front. Prior to the alterations, there was a lot of excess fabric in the back right near the armpit area that has since been removed.
If this is their Neapolitan Cut, you might try their 38R in the Contemporary Fit. Says that the shoulder width will be 17.9in vs 40R Slim's 18.3, and the chest will be 41.7in rather than 40R Slim's 42.9. For what it's worth, I like the shoulders and the back, but agree that the chest is collapsing a bit. I think a slightly narrower shoulder than 18.3 should be fine. If the tailor had to take in the back on this 40R Slim, you should be okay with the back on 38R Contemporary. (I.e., it should be tailorable.)

I think 38R Slim will be too small in the chest and waist, and probably in the back.

For a bit more, Kent Wang offers 39R in a slim cut.
 

Kevin24

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Good evening,

I recently bought a pair of new Hart Marx Tuxedo trousers off eBay that were suit separates (I only purchased the pants)

The trousers are marked "Short," and my go-to size is a regular. Does regular vs. short vs. long, etc. matter for pants?
 

blewnote1

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Any thoughts?
I'll let people with more experience weigh in on the jacket, but will tell you leave the taper on the pants alone and enjoy being able to bend your knees when sitting down (or any other situation where you might need to bend your knees) without feeling like you might blow out the knees of your trousers because they're tapered so slim. At least that's been my experience with S and M pants.
 

george325

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If this is their Neapolitan Cut, you might try their 38R in the Contemporary Fit. Says that the shoulder width will be 17.9in vs 40R Slim's 18.3, and the chest will be 41.7in rather than 40R Slim's 42.9. For what it's worth, I like the shoulders and the back, but agree that the chest is collapsing a bit. I think a slightly narrower shoulder than 18.3 should be fine. If the tailor had to take in the back on this 40R Slim, you should be okay with the back on 38R Contemporary. (I.e., it should be tailorable.)

I think 38R Slim will be too small in the chest and waist, and probably in the back.

For a bit more, Kent Wang offers 39R in a slim cut.
Thank you for the input. I suspected that I should size down so it’s good to have reassurance.
 

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