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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

AriGold

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Thanks for the feedback and agree next time I'd probably add a little length. Question - is it possible to extend this jacket at all?
 

Cayne-Abel

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New MTM suit just came in. Bringing it in for further tailoring this weekend. Constructive criticism welcome. I would say the jacket needs to be taken in significantly at the waist, at a minimum.

Just note that I wasn't wearing a belt in any of the photos except the one with my jacket off. So the pants were sagging a bit without the belt.
Bumping up, in hopes that someone can help me.
 

Thomas Auer

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Hi,

I originally posted this in the style advice section but figured it might be better placed here...

This was my first time using the Propercloth MTM shirt service and was curious what you guys think about the resulting fit.

Note - I've used all my lives on this shirt (had it remade twice after the initial order, partly because the first fit advice I received from PC really overshot).

I've worn and laundered the shirt a few times at this point and I'm reasonably happy with how it looks, although I can't help thinking it could fit better.

I opted for back darts because I wanted a pretty slim fit (I personally don't like it when fabric billows above the trouser waistband) but I'm not 100% happy with the way the fabric falls at the back - I wonder if the horizontal lines suggest the shirt is riding up at the back (maybe too tight across the hips, causing the shirt to ride up?), although it looks OK from the front to me. Note, the shirt has a 2.7" drop (5.4" around) from chest to waist.

Do you folks think I've gone too narrow in the waist, or do you think it would be better to remove the darts altogether and let the shirt drape more freely at the back? I know removing the darts whilst keeping the same waist width will effectively move fabric from the front of the shirt to the back - so I'm not sure if this will make matters worse or not..

I would note that this is a relatively stiff/thick chambray fabric - perhaps a thinner/dressier fabric would drape better with this fit.. but I'm nervous to try before hearing your words of wisdom.

Thanks in advance for any constructive feedback you can offer up!

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I think it is an ok fit for mtm. The huge issue is a balance one and I doubt that this can be accounted for with made to measure. Other than that I think the left shoulder could be extended. Also chambray tends to drape a little more forgiving than, lets say, a 120 popelin.
 

eguk

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I think it is an ok fit for mtm. The huge issue is a balance one and I doubt that this can be accounted for with made to measure. Other than that I think the left shoulder could be extended. Also chambray tends to drape a little more forgiving than, lets say, a 120 popelin.
Thanks for the reply. I suspect you're right that balance is hard to adjust with MTM. But, just for my own interest/education, how would you alter the balance in this case? Is it that there is too much back balance on this shirt (back needs to be dropped down relative to the front)?

I don't know a huge amount about balance so please excuse my ignorance here!
 

Thomas Auer

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Thanks for the reply. I suspect you're right that balance is hard to adjust with MTM. But, just for my own interest/education, how would you alter the balance in this case? Is it that there is too much back balance on this shirt (back needs to be dropped down relative to the front)?

I don't know a huge amount about balance so please excuse my ignorance here!
It's hard to judge by photos alone given that people tend to stand more upright than usual when taking pictures but I think you need more length in the front through the chest area. But again, given specific recommendation by pictures alone is often a little misleading.
 

flashwhite

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Hello, i got left/given a few suits and blazers that i think fit in the shoulders and the waist. However, they were the suits of someone taller than me and theyre quite old. I would guess from the 80s, from a brand or tailor called Luigi's in New York. Im in Australia so the suits are older and better travelled than me. Ive done a little research but before i waste a tailors time or my own money i wanted the opinions of someone who had a better eye for this sort of thing than i do.

I know the trousers need hemming, and the sleeves shortening, but even with those would these look classic or dated. Would the jackets be too long for my torso. Any helpful input would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

I have more photos/suits and can take more if what you need to work with isnt visible.
 

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DorianGreen

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Hello, i got left/given a few suits and blazers that i think fit in the shoulders and the waist. However, they were the suits of someone taller than me and theyre quite old. I would guess from the 80s, from a brand or tailor called Luigi's in New York. Im in Australia so the suits are older and better travelled than me. Ive done a little research but before i waste a tailors time or my own money i wanted the opinions of someone who had a better eye for this sort of thing than i do.

I know the trousers need hemming, and the sleeves shortening, but even with those would these look classic or dated. Would the jackets be too long for my torso. Any helpful input would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

I have more photos/suits and can take more if what you need to work with isnt visible.

Yes, the jacket looks definitely too long to me. Even if you like a somewhat old-fashioned look, it still looks overly long. The ratio torso/legs is off.
 
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Druddra

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Hello, i got left/given a few suits and blazers that i think fit in the shoulders and the waist. However, they were the suits of someone taller than me and theyre quite old. I would guess from the 80s, from a brand or tailor called Luigi's in New York. Im in Australia so the suits are older and better travelled than me. Ive done a little research but before i waste a tailors time or my own money i wanted the opinions of someone who had a better eye for this sort of thing than i do.

I know the trousers need hemming, and the sleeves shortening, but even with those would these look classic or dated. Would the jackets be too long for my torso. Any helpful input would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

I have more photos/suits and can take more if what you need to work with isnt visible.
they look very nice and classic to me, the fit and the length it's quite nice ate the sleeves buttonholes open or closed? i would alter this suit, they fit quite nice and they are only minor changhes, shouldn't be complex or expensive. to give you an idea, my tailor takes 25 euros to shortening the sleeves. If you have to do that from the shoulder it's a bit more expensive, but a good tailor should be able to do it.The jackets are long, but i would say that for a DB it's actually very correct! if you want you can even ask to a tailor to make it shorter, but i wouldn't (thata's also about personal taste). I don't think it's 80's the shoulders here look constructed, but in a very tastefully way, they are not super big like in 80's fashon. the lapel it's medium- big, i would say around 10 cm maybe, but it's very nice and aslo quite modern, about current trends. Are this
handmade or a more ready to wear suits? i would say it's worth it.
 

Fionn

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I'd appreciate some fit feedback on a Macintosh I bought from Private White. I'm not sure if this is the right place to post it.

For the first 6 photos, I have a suit jacket on underneath. The suit jacket is from Cordings so quite structured.

And for the last 5, I have a lightish weight cardigan on underneath.

I'm 6 foot 2, size 38 chest and went with a size 3.

One concern I have is the front of the coat leans/opens out slightly when done up with just the middle snapper and no zipper. My build is quite slight so it makes this more obvious (can be seen in the side on photos).
I'm hoping the cloth with settle done after a couple of wears.

Cheers for any input.
Apologies in advance for the blurry photos. I might reupload if its too hard to see.
 

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Fionn

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Okay, an addendum to my previous post.

I have taken short videos instead one with a shirt on underneath and one with a suit jacket on. Both are labelled. Link below.

 

Peak and Pine

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^
Up front, I'm not a tailor, just passing by. And I don't even know what a Macintosh is, but I have intuitive fingers, so I now see that it is a rubberized raincoat, as we here in the forest refer to them. You're not going to get any sort of drape with material like that. It's just something you throw on when it rains, and yours seems like it will do the trick. It pretty well fits, a little loose in the upper back, but don't think fit is paramount with a coat like that. Are you taking your pictures through a mirror, because the coat appears to button on the opposite side as it does here in the pines. Maybe they do it that way in Ireland .
 

Fionn

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Cheers. I think my sloping shoulder might be causing the wrinkling at the shoulder.

Oh and taken on my phone using the front camera.
 

DorianGreen

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Up front, I'm not a tailor, just passing by. And I don't even know what a Macintosh is, but I have intuitive fingers, so I now see that it is a rubberized raincoat, as we here in the forest refer to them. You're not going to get any sort of drape with material like that. It's just something you throw on when it rains, and yours seems like it will do the trick. It pretty well fits, a little loose in the upper back, but don't think fit is paramount with a coat like that. Are you taking your pictures through a mirror, because the coat appears to button on the opposite side as it does here in the pines. Maybe they do it that way in Ireland .

I agree, that garment is not supposed to fit as a tailored one, it's just a duty coat preventing that you get wet in the rain.
 

AriGold

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Here is an older MTM suit made where I feel the back looks off, and maybe the rear sleeve or armhole has an issue. Any thoughts on what might this be and should I give them a second chance?

IMG_2410.jpeg
 

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