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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

zabo358

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Wedding is in May so I’ll have to check out Steeds turnaround time. Funny enough I actually took the TF suit to Nick and his head alterationist suggested the wrong alteration for the back shoulders. You can see my post history for pics of his pinned alteration. Also Nicks’ bespokes suits are around 4k. Might ask Nick himself to look at the jacket to see if his thoughts align with Despos.
Hi - I wanted to provide a follow up on my wedding suit. A couple months back I posted a Tom Ford and Suit Supply suit I bought that turn out disastrous. Per @Despos recommendation I returned them, and glad I did. I decided to consult Steed during their US trunk show visit and placed a semi-bespoke order with them. Would have gone full bespoke but I only had 3 months to get this done.

I am very happy with how it turned out! Received the garment about 3 weeks ago and did a virtual call with Steed where we made a few adjustments. Biggest was taking 3/4 inch out of the back leg. Still think the trousers need a bit more attention but this was suffice for now. This was my first experience going bespoke and definitely got the bug to get more. Curious on y’all’s thoughts of how this turned out.
 

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stufferino

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Hi all -- I was hoping to get some advice.

I just thrifted this Piattelli brown nailhead suit. I didn't know the brand, but at $125 it seemed like a steal and I couldn't resist. I know I need to get it altered, and was hoping for some wisdom about what I should have done before taking it to the tailor.

Overall, the suit fits ~pretty~ well, but there are a few problems. The major problem, I think, is that the shoulders are a bit too wide -- I'm getting a bit of puckering when standing, but it is minimal. Do you think it's worth trying to have the shoulders adjusted, or would that be a big expensive mistake? The sleeves are obviously too short. Thankfully the buttonholes aren't real, and there is a bit of fabric left under the sleeves, so I don't think it should be too hard to have them lengthened. The pants are a bit long (?), but should be easy to hem. I'm not sure that the waist of the suit really lines up with my waist, but not sure what to do about that if anything? Lastly, do you think the jacket is too long?

My hope is that after alterations and a dry cleaning it will look really sharp. All advice or comments appreciated. Thanks!

And apologies for the bad pictures, I don't know how people are so good at taking pictures solo.
 

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Despos

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Hi all -- I was hoping to get some advice.

I just thrifted this Piattelli brown nailhead suit. I didn't know the brand, but at $125 it seemed like a steal and I couldn't resist. I know I need to get it altered, and was hoping for some wisdom about what I should have done before taking it to the tailor.

Overall, the suit fits ~pretty~ well, but there are a few problems. The major problem, I think, is that the shoulders are a bit too wide -- I'm getting a bit of puckering when standing, but it is minimal. Do you think it's worth trying to have the shoulders adjusted, or would that be a big expensive mistake? The sleeves are obviously too short. Thankfully the buttonholes aren't real, and there is a bit of fabric left under the sleeves, so I don't think it should be too hard to have them lengthened. The pants are a bit long (?), but should be easy to hem. I'm not sure that the waist of the suit really lines up with my waist, but not sure what to do about that if anything? Lastly, do you think the jacket is too long?

My hope is that after alterations and a dry cleaning it will look really sharp. All advice or comments appreciated. Thanks!

And apologies for the bad pictures, I don't know how people are so good at taking pictures solo.
Find a competent tailor to lengthen the sleeves. Very difficult and time consuming to remove the faux buttonholes on the sleeves. Easy to damage the cloth. Don't expect the cloth to recover from the stitches. Very often leaves an impression that won't come out with steaming and pressing. Especially on lighter weight cloth.
You will be lucky if there is enough cloth that you need to get the best sleeve length. Will be necessary to add cloth as a facing to turn up the sleeve hem. There won't be enough length on the lining either. That will probably need to have a piece added.
Shoulders are not too wide and would be a big mistake to make them any more narrow.
Jacket looks short, not long.
Cannot see anything from the back photo so can't comment.
 

loll8capital

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Looking for some advice on a suit I picked up from a Japanese auction site. The suit is by Ring Jacket, from their Ring Sartoria line. It seems very well made and I like the fabric. The issues are that the jacket seems too long and the chest too tight. I'm trying to decide whether it's worth it to have the chest taken out (I assume there is some extra fabric given the quality of the suit) and the sleeves shortened; or if I should just keep it as is and wear occasionally (probably open and with a tee shirt), or sell it (it cost around $30 delivered so I could probably get more than I paid for it at a consignment shop).

Any advice or feedback appreciated.
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Purplelabel

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Ok so I finally managed to find this shirt that I’ve been looking for for so long but it’s a little slim!! Not massively but it could do with more fabric around the mid section.

Would it be possible to remove the middle part of the side (picture two) and replace with a a bigger piece of denim to give the shirt more room and keep the shape ? If that makes sense?

very jet lagged so this is my brain capacity currently!

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krudsma

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Ok so I finally managed to find this shirt that I’ve been looking for for so long but it’s a little slim!! Not massively but it could do with more fabric around the mid section.

Would it be possible to remove the middle part of the side (picture two) and replace with a a bigger piece of denim to give the shirt more room and keep the shape ? If that makes sense?

very jet lagged so this is my brain capacity currently!

View attachment 1956187 View attachment 1956189 View attachment 1956191
Short answer: don't think so. You'd be better off selling it and sizing up or living with it as is (western shirts are supposed to fit a bit slim, right?)
Long answer: What you're describing is technically possible but there's almost no way it's worth the time or money to achieve. You'd be hard pressed to find a matching fabric for one thing, but even if you did it would be missing all of the fading on the original pieces.
 

Purplelabel

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Short answer: don't think so. You'd be better off selling it and sizing up or living with it as is (western shirts are supposed to fit a bit slim, right?)
Long answer: What you're describing is technically possible but there's almost no way it's worth the time or money to achieve. You'd be hard pressed to find a matching fabric for one thing, but even if you did it would be missing all of the fading on the original pieces.

Thought so. I've taken to a guy and as they're jean seams, he's said there could be enough fabric folded up to make it better. I'll see what he comes back with this weekend and if it worked or not.
 

jj02138

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Hi everyone. I picked up a suit on a whim, but when it arrived I saw it is clearly too large in the shoulders for me, probably by about 1 inch. I have a skilled tailor who I trust with working on shoulders, and has completed similar alterations with great results. My question though is: with the glen check pattern of this garment, is there any way to narrow the shoulders and retain alignment of patterns? Or would that surely be broken? Thank you.
 

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BluDream

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Hello,
I’m trying to get my Luxire shirt pattern dialled in and I could probably use some advice.
The biggest problems with the fit that I can see are:
The back of the shirt is poking out around the waist which to me seems to be because of a lack of fabric in the front portion of the waist and bottom which causes som strange tension.
The yoke is too big at the moment, how much do you think that I should decrease it?
I’m also wondering if I need an adjustment for forward shoulders? I can sometimes feel some tension on the front of my shoulder while the fabric is bunching up behind the shoulder.
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If you can spot anything else that you think that I should fix feel free to tell me, all feedback is appreciated!
Thank you!
 

gimpwiz

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Hi everyone. I picked up a suit on a whim, but when it arrived I saw it is clearly too large in the shoulders for me, probably by about 1 inch. I have a skilled tailor who I trust with working on shoulders, and has completed similar alterations with great results. My question though is: with the glen check pattern of this garment, is there any way to narrow the shoulders and retain alignment of patterns? Or would that surely be broken? Thank you.

After it hangs and unwrinkles a bit, get some better photos - sides, front, back, you not holding the phone, preferably natural light. It's hard to tell but tbh the shoulders look fine to me right now?
 

jj02138

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After it hangs and unwrinkles a bit, get some better photos - sides, front, back, you not holding the phone, preferably natural light. It's hard to tell but tbh the shoulders look fine to me right now?
Thanks. Will do, and I can see how it might look that way if you look at the photos I sent, probably because you don't see my head. But they are considerably wide for my frame.
 

patliean1

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Cotton seersucker. Straight out the box, no iron. Obviously not the ideal material for drape, but it does highlight the areas I'd like to improve. Cleaning up the back of the jacket (dropped right shoulder) and rear thigh/rump area of the trousers. Awaiting to hear from the from the tailor, but wanted to feedback here too.

Thanks

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tyfighter

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Hi everyone, I just had a suit jacket let out ~1 inch in the waist. When I got it back I noticed that the suit jacket quarters look good when I'm in a relaxed pose, but flare out when my arms are not down at my sides. It looks like this is happening along a crease on the midpoint of the jacket that's causing the fabric to behave oddly. I'm wondering if this is an easy fix I can deal with by getting the suit pressed, or whether it needs to go back in to get it fixed. Thanks!
 

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Despos

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Hi everyone, I just had a suit jacket let out ~1 inch in the waist. When I got it back I noticed that the suit jacket quarters look good when I'm in a relaxed pose, but flare out when my arms are not down at my sides. It looks like this is happening along a crease on the midpoint of the jacket that's causing the fabric to behave oddly. I'm wondering if this is an easy fix I can deal with by getting the suit pressed, or whether it needs to go back in to get it fixed. Thanks!
Have you ever seen a jacket not do this with your arms crossed?
 

tyfighter

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Have you ever seen a jacket not do this with your arms crossed?
Haha okay fair enough! It sounds like I'm just overthinking things, which is a relief. This is the first suit I've bought and had altered so I don't have much experience. Thanks for your feedback!
 

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