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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Despos

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Purely comfort. Waist expands slightly after meals and when seated down.

Side adjuster allows you to keep it just tight enough (1/4” left+right).

Although it’s always a little unsightly to adjust them.

I don’t have much of a belly, just curious of your opinion.
Have no opinion on this. It's totally subjective and personal preference.
Either fit the trouser to be comfortable when sitting or bloated or for the times your not.
 

Dan Dynamic

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Lower back is awful. Is it due to excessive waist suppression?
 

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Baked Potato

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How's the length of this jacket, according to you guys? Unfortunately, I didn't take any more photos. Would love to show the back part too. Does it look well in the front overall? Also, I went with "regular" lapels this time. The wide option is about 1,5cm wider. Would that be too much for me, as I have a rather small frame?

IMG_6413.jpg
 

willyto

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Lower back is awful. Is it due to excessive waist suppression?
Can't say much on the jacket apart from it being a bit short but I believe you would benefit from narrower turn ups.They seem to be way over 5cm and it doesn' look balanced.
 

MaE

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Hi guys,

Just got this SC from the Armoury and well… the overall fit isn’t bad, maybe there’s some excess fabric in the chest area (it’s a Model 11 and is supposed to be an homage to the American sack cut and therefore shouldn’t be too slim) but the collar and lapels are “meh”. What do you guys think? Is the whole balance off or is there something that can be done by my local tailor to fix the gap and the lapels that aren’t leads hugging my chest like they should?

If you need extra pictures just let me know!

Thanks in advance!

Edit: I’ve contacted the Armoury as well and they might also give me some advice in the near future

812C4D7C-5B77-4033-98BB-A4CCEF6E0C12.jpeg A10F2EF3-314A-4B85-8042-25E59254DE60.jpeg 8496028A-9611-4F80-8848-C8C53C09A55F.jpeg 2E7A63F8-EFC3-435B-876A-B13B10F4F3B0.jpeg
 
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ter1413

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BB_Adept

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Sport coats/coats always restrict my front deltoid when elevating my arm.
This happens even when the shoulders fit well in the back and when I have enough room around the chest. Sizing up would make the chest and shoulders too big but offer more room around this area I guess.

Is this a problem that can be fixed by a tailor ? I cannot quite pin down where the issue is. The restrictions are felt directly above the seem of the armhole ans above the pars clavicularis deltoidei.

Thanks in advance for suggestions and solutions :)
 

Camillo

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A known method to accommodate bigger calves is to make the rear panels of a trousers bigger/wider than the front ones. Could someone (@Despos ?) explain the technicalities of this process? I assume this also affects the way the legs fit over the shoes, so that the fabric isn't pulled to the back. What will happen, if the difference between the front and back panels will increase? Will it make for a nicer/cleaner leg line?
 

Despos

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Hi guys,

Just got this SC from the Armoury and well… the overall fit isn’t bad, maybe there’s some excess fabric in the chest area (it’s a Model 11 and is supposed to be an homage to the American sack cut and therefore shouldn’t be too slim) but the collar and lapels are “meh”. What do you guys think? Is the whole balance off or is there something that can be done by my local tailor to fix the gap and the lapels that aren’t leads hugging my chest like they should?

If you need extra pictures just let me know!

Thanks in advance!

Edit: I’ve contacted the Armoury as well and they might also give me some advice in the near future

View attachment 1861729 View attachment 1861730 View attachment 1861731 View attachment 1861732
Could be that your shoulders are a bit square and the jacket shoulder slope is greater than your actual shoulder slope. This would cause the lapel to lift off the chest and create a gap.
Can't be sure from these pictures.
 
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Despos

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Quick questions for the professionals here:

Is it possible to convert Patch Pockets to JettedPockets?
Depends if there is a wedge cut out under the patch pocket. If so, you have to make the pocket on this cut and the position might be too low, close to the hem and look odd.
.
Have to use the cloth of the patch pockets to make 4 pipes and two facings.
Unless you have the same cloth.

Then you have to find someone who will/wants to do a job like this
 

Despos

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A known method to accommodate bigger calves is to make the rear panels of a trousers bigger/wider than the front ones. Could someone (@Despos ?) explain the technicalities of this process? I assume this also affects the way the legs fit over the shoes, so that the fabric isn't pulled to the back. What will happen, if the difference between the front and back panels will increase? Will it make for a nicer/cleaner leg line?
increase the width at the knee and taper to the thigh and to the hem.
Increase the circumference at the hem if necessary.
Nothing happens when you increase the front or back panels.
 

Despos

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Sport coats/coats always restrict my front deltoid when elevating my arm.
This happens even when the shoulders fit well in the back and when I have enough room around the chest. Sizing up would make the chest and shoulders too big but offer more room around this area I guess.

Is this a problem that can be fixed by a tailor ? I cannot quite pin down where the issue is. The restrictions are felt directly above the seem of the armhole ans above the pars clavicularis deltoidei.

Thanks in advance for suggestions and solutions :)
Too complicated/general of a question to answer without seeing something specific to analyze.
 

Dan Dynamic

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Too tight. Can barely walk. Every step feels restricted. Diagonal lines from front knees to rear of trousers.

It is the back rise at the crotch that needs to be increased, right?
 

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Aloysius16

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Too tight. Can barely walk. Every step feels restricted. Diagonal lines from front knees to rear of trousers.

It is the back rise at the crotch that needs to be increased, right?

would be interested in tailor views on this as I have faced this issue and alterations have not helped. I think it needs more curvature through the seat seam. I had repeat orders from Luxire with this issue and adjustments could not resolve as the problem was baked into their pattern more fundamentally.
 

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