The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Jkhan82

    Jkhan82 Senior member

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    I have no idea what post Brendon wrote applies to me...since they all talked about some work needed.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2012


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think posts 956 - 958 apply to you. Brendon can verify.

    Some of what he says is about your erect posture and how the jacket balance is off. The high front button position accentuates this and contributes to the lower front parts flaring away from your body. The back is long and and the front short for the way you stand. The back part needs to be shifted down on the side seams. I disagree about center vents as they will make your erect posture more obvious as the vent will open like this ^. You can shorten the back on the side seams with either side or center vent.
    Same concept applies to the trouser. The back is long and creates drag under your seat. Have to recut the back part but is difficult to do because of the back pockets. Wouldn't worry about the pull in the leg , a bit wider leg opening would help some. Trousers are too short, especially the back part.
     


  3. f-tard

    f-tard Well-Known Member

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    Hello masters, I'm posting a fit critique as well, thanks in advance! I'm looking for some feedback on a MTM wedding tux I had made for me. For a slim suit MTM the fit isn't bad and I'm thinking of doing another future suit order. What can I do to improve the fit of this MTM for a future suit order? Some things I'm thinking is possibly higher armholes (seems to be extra room/fabric in chest area around the pits, not sure if higher armholes are the fix), slim/taper the sleeves a bit, lightly padded shoulders and a hair longer inseam in the pants. Any thoughts would be welcome, thanks.

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  4. Jkhan82

    Jkhan82 Senior member

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    Can you explain this a bit more clearly—sorry seems very insightful but I'm not grasping it. How could I shorten the back on the side seams?

    Thanks Despos
     


  5. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Apoloigies JKhan82 and thanks Despos for assisting. I can give you a very technical answer on how to fix all. However passing down the back is not difficult and will make a significant difference to your coat.Centre vent or no vent is best as it makes the alteration easier. Shortening the bottom of the coat will do nothing as it is all over for the drape by the time it gets there. This is a posture thing. The inside and the outside of the curve. The short front Balance is kicking the coat out at the front. Not very fixable in off the peg suits. The trouser is expensive to fix. suggest you try custom made and tick errect for posture. Better still a Bespoke Tailor in the UK. That is where the good ones are.
    Here are a list of alterations to improve. Expensive!!! ie get made to measure or in 50 years when you are stooping with a curved spine this will not be a problem.
    Here we go. set the meter running.;
    Undo the back of the armhole....Pass down the back 3/8 making the vent shorter by 3/8 ( not a big deal) re hem bootom of coat.....Then look at the collar may or may not need stumping. Do pass down first and may save money. Steam the front of the coat below the button and give it a stretch. Trouser ...Take back waistband off. Pass down back 3/8 no more because of pockets. Take in back side seams odf trouser ( back only) 3/8 inch let out seat 3/4 inch. Clear out seat below seat. Let out fork all possible. If have spare cloth put in fork piece.(Even take off cuffs and use this cloth) Definitely lengthen trousers 3/4. This will straighten the trousers slightly and will improve the fit a bit.
    A trouser needs a tiny bit of fall below the seat otherwise the trouser will not allow you to walk comfortably.
    A lot of work. Or you could get a job staring at a computer screen all day and that should start to round your shoulders.
    Suggestion to all who read. Get someone else to take the photo. Relax. Look straight ahead. Do not turn your neck. Do not stand overly upright as if on a parade ground. Take a side on a front on and a back on.
    Hope this helps regards
    Brendon
     


  6. itsmejson

    itsmejson Senior member

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    thx for the replies. just to be sure I ended up ordering a 40S
    just to be sure. If that ends up being too big then I will go w/
    the 38S. besides the waist and shortening sleeve lengths is
    there anything else you would recommend getting altered?
     


  7. blc456

    blc456 Senior member

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    Do any of these pictures help? Best ones I can get for the next few days. The jacket has not been altered at all.

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    Last edited: May 7, 2012


  8. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Hi Itsmejsn
    hard to say. 38short or 40 short. Here are the things to weigh up.
    If you are still playing sport smaller size ok. When we start serious work other areas of our life suffer and weight is easy to put on. ie pinot noir or richer foods.
    Consider this. The weakness of this is the front edge...where the buttoning happens. If this is too loose then this looks sloppy quickly and is hard to alter unless the posture is errect then there is sort of an alteration that can be done. In my opinion the coat is too short, however this is fashion so for the next two years that probably wont matter.
    With the vent tacked it is hard to tell whether this is tight. It does not look nice from the back.This could be an excess of back balance or tight Do you button up your jacket? If not this is not an issue.
    It boils down to the strides. How tight is tight. Undo the front and measure how much the distance between the keeper and its mate. Inside the back of most trousers should be about 2 1/2 inches to let out.
    You may only need an inch. Keep in mind that the 40 short will be 2 inches bigger in the waist and unless you are big in the thigh sway back with big gluteous then the smaller size will be ok depending on how much to let out.
    This jacket will look more fashion undone if it is tight. Remember that front edge because of the button holes hard to alter and looks sloppy easily.
    The rest looks ok. The thing where you are doing the birdman from alcatraz is just a symptom of factory made suits. Not built for flying with wings.
    If you feel good in the 38, think of where you are weight wise , check the amount the trouser needs to be let out,
    Then make your decision. Last piece of advice is ask an older man ie 40 plus if they have an alteration person they could recommend, better still to take you there. A refferral will always carry more weight care and attention and you mayl also get the alteration persons advice to boot
    Good luck I hope there is some help in here for you
    regards
    Brendon
     


  9. itsmejson

    itsmejson Senior member

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    Do you think going with a 38R instead of a short would be better?
    I do think it is a bit on the short side and probably with another 1"
    may be better.
    - what is the average length difference between a short & regular?

    can you touch on what you mean by the back does not look nice?
    - I do plan on buttoning the jacket
    - when I had buttoned this jacket in the picture it was definitely tight
    trying to get it buttoned.
    - is that what you meant by the back didn't look nice? or could it be
    because the jacket is on the short side? again would a regular sized
    jacket help w/ the back balance

    thanks for your feedback Brendon!
     


  10. nolanmjj

    nolanmjj Well-Known Member

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    thoughts? excuse the sloppiness of the tie and the lack of smoothing out hte jacket--debating whether to return or not, hence why the price tag is still on there. off the rack saks zegna cloth slim fit. are the shoulders too wide? please scrutizine as i know SF will be the most critical of eyes. i know the sleeves need to be shortened.

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    suit 2 (colors do not appear that much different due to lighting. this is gray, previous is navy).
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    thanks!
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2012


  11. offmic

    offmic New Member

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    What a great thread. Love to have you all chime in on this one.

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    Thanks, everyone.
     


  12. doogoshly

    doogoshly Member

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    delete. edited my post below. sorry.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2012


  13. eyoo

    eyoo Member

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    My Indochino suit just arrived, and I'll need it finalized by the second to last week in June for a wedding I'm in. Help!

    The blazer just feels and looks sloppy to me. Shoulders are too long, chest maybe a little big, might want to bring it in around the waist, there are rolls below the neck. Also, is the button stance kind of too high?
    I chose Sloping Shoulders, Husky/Hefty Chest, Average Stomach, and Normal Posture. Does anyone know if these options make a huge influence on the fit? Maybe I chose a wrong one?

    I plan on seeing a tailor, but I'd like your opinion too. Any help on adjustments? Thanks!

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  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hey doogoshly
    why are you posing like a g q model? we cant tell a thing that way.
    go back to the #1 post. it will tell you how to take pictures.
    on offense meant but you are new and have to learn this.
     


  15. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Hi Eyoo
    and anyone else who has a similar looking suit. Shoulders are fine. If you want to see a ridiculous pair of shoulders lapels etc look to that fashion police show on TV. Look at the lines from the back of the shoulders to the should points at the front. Dont know the guys name but he looks like he sent to the drycleaners and they washed it with the horse blanckets. If you want to look feminine then great ....take in the shoulders and keep the coat short. This accentuates a narrow shoulder relative to your hips ie a ladies shape. You fly workings show below your jacket. The button position is high.Any one who is carrying a little weight renders the button useless as the shirt shows below the buttoning ( at least your jacket is relatively straight and this reduces this) The darts which are there to suppress the waist are so high that they are suppressing your chest.If only you could see yourselves from the rear. With the short coats and the poorly cut trousers you will look as though a nappy is being worn. On the plus side at least your trousers look like they are tapered with a degree of balance for your stance. Note to all alt tailors. Do not taper trousers much from the inside ....unless you want the wearer to get on a horse like jodhpurs. None of this is your fault this is fashion ......who decides. Some moron with no idea like the dude on FP. While I'm on a rant. Who cuts Tim Gunns suits. I think i will start a thread with this. Look at his sloping shoulders. How inert looking. He does seem like a caring man though. Someone over there please help him find a tailor.
    Yoour suit look ok Eyoo....that is compared to all the others I have seen so far. Infact it's probably in the top half. Go well. I hope you do not suffer any cognitive dissonance after my rant.
    nb remember all...there is no such thing as a perfect looking suit. The human body is perfect. If you are short you are short, fat you are fat, tall you are tall. A good suit will flatter your figure to the best of the tailor's various abilities. The most important thing about a suit is the impression you make from across the room. Not all the detail. If you are next to someone and they are looking at your edge stitching and not your face then off you go to find a personality. A sign of a cheap suit is when the inside ie the coloured lining and detail is more important than the outside. i understand the influence of fashion however look at where the influences are question them and if feminine looking suits are what pushes your buttons then just carry on as you were.
    Eyoo your suit looks fine.
    apologies that you have copped this address to a lot of suits I have seen
    reagrds
    Brendon
     


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