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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Alx190

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Hi @Despos

I have asked about similar issues in the past, but what are the alteration options to reduce the seat, hips, upper thigh size on a pair of trousers for someone blessed with narrow hips and a flat seat.

I tend to be be between sizes because a size 34 will fit around the seat but be too tight across the front and often through the crotch too (as well as the waist which can be altered). Size 36 is better generally but normally too loose at the seat and below, and often with a jodhpur look.

If just a small change is needed, I ask for the seat seam to be taken in, or more often for the back part to be taken in on each side along the outseams from waist band down to a few inches below the crotch.

However, sometimes a bigger change is needed. In these circumstances, is it feasible to open the fork and then take fabric in along the seat seam, the crotch and the upper inseams as a single alteration, thereby reducing the size of the back from waist to somewhere above the knee?

If so, can this be done on its own, or does it need an adjustment to the outseam to balance the alteration? Are there any other ways to make the change needed?

Hello,i`m happy with the results about fitting because in the past i had a lot of fitting issues because of the balance and the shape of my back. Usually the back of the jacket was looking awful, also the backside of the sleeves. The pattern was designed for normal pockets, after i cut it, i decided to make the jacket with patch pockets. In order to cover the pockets cut, i placed the pockets too high, but i will find a solution.About the lapel, i realised too late but the jacket it s for myself and it s just for practicing to learn as much as i can.

Thank you a lot for your adcvices. Afew months ago you explain me how to fix the collar roll problem and now i have a good results.I will come back with trousers photos after i will finish.

Have a nice day!
 

Despos

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Hello,i`m happy with the results about fitting because in the past i had a lot of fitting issues because of the balance and the shape of my back. Usually the back of the jacket was looking awful, also the backside of the sleeves. The pattern was designed for normal pockets, after i cut it, i decided to make the jacket with patch pockets. In order to cover the pockets cut, i placed the pockets too high, but i will find a solution.About the lapel, i realised too late but the jacket it s for myself and it s just for practicing to learn as much as i can.

Thank you a lot for your adcvices. Afew months ago you explain me how to fix the collar roll problem and now i have a good results.I will come back with trousers photos after i will finish.

Have a nice day!
If you have extra cloth you could cut new patch pockets and make them about 1” longer.
If you don’t have extra cloth you could make besom pockets and no flap. You could use the patch pockets that are on the jacket now for the cloth you need. 4 pieces for the 4 pipes and you need 2 facings.
Did you leave outlets on the collar? You may have enough cloth to make a new collar.
 

Despos

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Hi @Despos

I have asked about similar issues in the past, but what are the alteration options to reduce the seat, hips, upper thigh size on a pair of trousers for someone blessed with narrow hips and a flat seat?

I tend to be be between sizes because a size 34 will fit around the seat but be too tight across the front and often through the crotch too (as well as the waist which can be altered). Size 36 is better generally but normally too loose at the seat and below, and often with a jodhpur look.

If just a small change is needed, I ask for the seat seam to be taken in, or more often for the back part to be taken in on each side along the outseams from waist band down to a few inches below the crotch.

However, sometimes a bigger change is needed. In these circumstances, is it feasible to open the fork and then take fabric in along the seat seam, the crotch and the upper inseams as a single alteration, thereby reducing the size of the back from waist to somewhere above the knee?

If so, can this be done on its own, or does it need an adjustment to the outseam to balance the alteration? Are there any other ways to make the change needed?
Hard to reply to a verbal description of the issue compared to a viewing a picture.
 

Despos

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DapperPhilly

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The back of my pants seems to be perpetually hung up on the top of the back of my shoes. Is there an
alteration to fix this. My tailor hems the pants at what I perceive to be the proper angle and I do like a
slight break in the front.
Any advice is appreciated.
 

Despos

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The back of my pants seems to be perpetually hung up on the top of the back of my shoes. Is there an
alteration to fix this. My tailor hems the pants at what I perceive to be the proper angle and I do like a
slight break in the front.
Any advice is appreciated.
Slip on or lace up? happens with every shoe you wear?
its happened to me but it was caused by the shoe
 
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I visited a local Suitsupply and got fitted in a Napoli 36S. It felt fine in store, but now that it's home I can't help but feel I got sized too small. The jacket feels restrictive in the shoulders/upper chest. Did I make mistake buying this size?

 
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alghul

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Hello,

I posted this on the menswear advice forum but I thought I would try my luck here as well.

I just received 3 sport coats from PC today. Those are the first jackets I buy from them so the fit is not quite there yet. I have 2 free remake for each jacket but I would like to nail the fit for the next one if possible. At least, in the areas that can't be fixed by a tailor (ex. shoulders & sleeves unless cut from the shoulders).

I think I have an idea of what's wrong with them but I would appreciate some advice on what needs to be tailored and what fits right.

First, all 3 of them are extremely comfortable and wear just like sweaters which is what I am looking for.

Here is what I think about the jackets. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

1. All 3 jackets have the sleeves too wide and way too long.
2. All 3 jackets have a small collar gap on the right. I think it's due to my posture. Can a tailor fix that?
3. The tweed jacket feels a bit bigger and may be too big on the shoulders and maybe the body as well. Compared to the other 2, it wears bigger.
4. The camel colored jacket feels fine in the shoulders but not sure whether or not a bit smaller would be better. I think the body is fine.
5. The blue jacket fits very good (it has the lighter fabric of the 3). The only thing I would change or alter are the sleeves and the collar gap.

I know they are very wrinkled but they were just out of the bag when I took the pictures.

@Despos I was told you might be able to help me out. Would you mind giving me some advice?

Thanks
 

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nevaeh

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definitely too small. Maybe try a 36R
Wouldn’t 36R compared to 36S mostly be longer? He said his concern is restriction in the chest and shoulders, and not necessarily shortness in length. The tailors will suggest better options, but perhaps a larger size might be worth considering?
 
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benjamin831

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Due to ongoing travel restrictions, I haven't been able to see my tailor for a year. On a jacket we're working on, I was given explicit instructions to pin up the back, which worked great in getting rid of all the diagonal wrinkles around shoulder blades. However, I can't seem to get rid the wrinkles on the lower back.

For my own curiosity, what is causing this and how can it be remedied?

DSCF9840.JPG
 

Thingamajig

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You've pinned it up too much. This has caused the back balance to become shorter than the front. This can be seen also by the way the cloth is being pulled backwards and upwards. Try getting rid of the pins in the middle, but leave the ones at the sides.
 

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