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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Kansai22

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first picture shows the lapels bowing but not as much in other pictures. Optimal fit is a perfect V of the roll of the lapels showing your shirt. get the jacket to fit properly at the neck and chest then get a shirt with a wider spread and point length that reaches under the lapel. Would try other brands, not just another size.
Thank you. Is the jacket fit at the neck and chest something I can have altered or do you suggest I look for another brand?
 

Despos

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Thank you. Is the jacket fit at the neck and chest something I can have altered or do you suggest I look for another brand?
Can’t improve it by altering. Try Canali if it is available to you. Buying RTW is finding the brand that works best for your body type. It’s the jacket that needs the least amount of alteration or simplest alterations.
 

Koffe_96

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Hello!

I'm pretty new to the classic style of clothing and i just got me some trousers secound hand
and i feel that the fit is not right.

As I'm pretty unexperienced with altering I would appriciate some input on
what to point out to the tailor, or maybe I just should size down?

My measurments are 173cm 66Kg.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Bersabee

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I just got these back from Tailor - these were on clearance for CAD$20 so I took a risk on them. Just trying to get some feedbacks on fit.

My main concern is that my right leg has a little bit of bunching near the crotch (that leg is naturally longer than the other). I like the trousers end on my left leg.

My thinking:
- decrease waist a touch
- Increase hip ~1 inch (A little hard to bend down)
- Increase thigh a touch
- Increase knee width
- Increase opening at the bottom a touch? (planning to wear loafers in most cases --> idk if this le)
- Even out legs (probably means increasing my right leg length by 4/5mm)

@Despos any comments?

P1.jpg P2.jpg P3.jpg
 
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Timmers

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Hi all,

Just wondering if I could get some alteration tips on the fabric bunching on these tuxedo trousers. They feel comfortable.

IMG_4997.PNG


I'd appreciate any help! Thanks.
 

Despos

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Hello!

I'm pretty new to the classic style of clothing and i just got me some trousers secound hand
and i feel that the fit is not right.

As I'm pretty unexperienced with altering I would appriciate some input on
what to point out to the tailor, or maybe I just should size down?

My measurments are 173cm 66Kg.

Thanks in advance!
These are an odd cut, rare to see the short fly/zipper on a tailored trouser.
Trouser looks pretty sloppy. Can't tell from a picture if the waist fits or is snug or loose. That can altered. Need to be shortened. That's about all a tailor can do on these.
Since you are new to tailored clothing I assume you wear jeans the most. Finding a tailored trouser is like buying jeans. They are all cut differently and will fit differently. No way around trying different brands until you find the fit, style and cloth you like to wear.
Few tips. Get the trouser that drapes the best, has the proportions you like: trim, snug or relaxed line to the leg. Get the trouser that doesn't need more work than adjusting the waist and hemming. Don't buy a trouser that is tight in the seat. Fit the seat and have the waist adjusted. Don't use a tailor that you have to explain what work needs to be done. Be able to explain how you want the trouser to fit and feel. That part is your preference.
 

Despos

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I just got these back from Tailor - these were on clearance for CAD$20 so I took a risk on them. Just trying to get some feedbacks on fit.

My main concern is that my right leg has a little bit of bunching near the crotch (that leg is naturally longer than the other). I like the trousers end on my left leg.

My thinking:
- decrease waist a touch
- Increase hip ~1 inch (A little hard to bend down)
- Increase thigh a touch
- Increase knee width
- Increase opening at the bottom a touch? (planning to wear loafers in most cases --> idk if this le)
- Even out legs (probably means increasing my right leg length by 4/5mm)

@Despos any comments?

View attachment 1682110 View attachment 1682109 View attachment 1682108
Tailor can open the seam and let out the leg from top of the inseam at the crotch to the hem. You might gain 1/2" at the thigh, knee and bottom. There usually isn't more outlet than that on RTW trousers. May help or be insignificant. Depends on your expectations.
Would lengthen the left leg 1/2" and the right leg 1 1/2". The right leg is much shorter than the left but both legs look too short.
 

Despos

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Hi all,

Just wondering if I could get some alteration tips on the fabric bunching on these tuxedo trousers. They feel comfortable.

View attachment 1682268

I'd appreciate any help! Thanks.
Internet tailoring lingo calls this a long back rise. It's an involved alteration that doesn't fully correct the issue on finished trousers because the root cause is the pattern and the front back balance is not compatible with your posture.
Most tailors will open/remove the waistband form the front crease to the center back on both sides. Lift the back part until the wrinkles go away and cut the amount off the top of the trouser. Sew the waistband on again. Back pockets will be higher with less space between the pocket and the waistband and probably not parallel to the waistband as before. What this means is the adjustment will be noticeable because of the irregularity.
If the tailor is more experienced he will also open the side seam and reduce the back part along the outseam. This is complex and more expensive because of the tuxedo braid. Braid has to be removed and resewn.
All this will make it better than it is but doesn't get the same result if the balance of the pattern is correct from the beginning.
 

Timmers

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Internet tailoring lingo calls this a long back rise. It's an involved alteration that doesn't fully correct the issue on finished trousers because the root cause is the pattern and the front back balance is not compatible with your posture.
Most tailors will open/remove the waistband form the front crease to the center back on both sides. Lift the back part until the wrinkles go away and cut the amount off the top of the trouser. Sew the waistband on again. Back pockets will be higher with less space between the pocket and the waistband and probably not parallel to the waistband as before. What this means is the adjustment will be noticeable because of the irregularity.
If the tailor is more experienced he will also open the side seam and reduce the back part along the outseam. This is complex and more expensive because of the tuxedo braid. Braid has to be removed and resewn.
All this will make it better than it is but doesn't get the same result if the balance of the pattern is correct from the beginning.
Thank you! I appreciate the insight.
I presumed it would be quite difficult to fix as my past MTM trousers with very similar measurements have all come out fine, hopefully I can sort it out with my tailor.
 

Despos

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Thank you! I appreciate the insight.
I presumed it would be quite difficult to fix as my past MTM trousers with very similar measurements have all come out fine, hopefully I can sort it out with my tailor.
Is this MTM? If so, do you have other trouser made by them that don’t fit this way?
This isn’t something changed or corrected by measurements. It’s a pattern problem. A flaw in the pattern making system. Every maker uses a different pattern, drafted in a different way.
 

Alx190

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Hi, i ve made a full canvas blazer for myself, i have some photos with second fitting and i want to know your oppinion/suggestions. The fabric i used for this jacket is linen and the jacket has no shoulder pads. After i saw the photos i realised that the pocket are too high. Thank you!
Screenshot_20211015-151443.jpg
 

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Despos

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Hi, i ve made a full canvas blazer for myself, i have some photos with second fitting and i want to know your oppinion/suggestions. The fabric i used for this jacket is linen and the jacket has no shoulder pads. After i saw the photos i realised that the pocket are too high. Thank you! View attachment 1686932
Looks really good! You did a great job shaping the back.
Linen is not easy to work with.
Are you happy with this? Would you change anything?

Just saw the full view of the front. The pockets are too high from the hem but you can take them off and move them closer to the hem. 1 1/2"or 1 3/4" from the hem are normal distance most tailors use. Not easy to do with a full lining or doing it after the front is on the canvass but it can be done.
Noticed the way you shaped the collar and the distance from the edge of the lapel to the collar. Looks off. For this lapel width, 1 5/8" is a good distance from the edge of the lapel to the collar. Maybe this was intentional.
 
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Timmers

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Is this MTM? If so, do you have other trouser made by them that don’t fit this way?
This isn’t something changed or corrected by measurements. It’s a pattern problem. A flaw in the pattern making system. Every maker uses a different pattern, drafted in a different way.
Yeah, MTM. I've gotten probably 6 or so trousers (as part of suits) from them and they haven't had such bunching on the back of the thighs.
 

Despos

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Yeah, MTM. I've gotten probably 6 or so trousers (as part of suits) from them and they haven't had such bunching on the back of the thighs.
That gives you trousers they made to compare the fit when you talk to them.
Maybe they used a different maker with a different pattern for this trouser.
 

Aloysius16

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Hi @Despos

I have asked about similar issues in the past, but what are the alteration options to reduce the seat, hips, upper thigh size on a pair of trousers for someone blessed with narrow hips and a flat seat?

I tend to be be between sizes because a size 34 will fit around the seat but be too tight across the front and often through the crotch too (as well as the waist which can be altered). Size 36 is better generally but normally too loose at the seat and below, and often with a jodhpur look.

If just a small change is needed, I ask for the seat seam to be taken in, or more often for the back part to be taken in on each side along the outseams from waist band down to a few inches below the crotch.

However, sometimes a bigger change is needed. In these circumstances, is it feasible to open the fork and then take fabric in along the seat seam, the crotch and the upper inseams as a single alteration, thereby reducing the size of the back from waist to somewhere above the knee?

If so, can this be done on its own, or does it need an adjustment to the outseam to balance the alteration? Are there any other ways to make the change needed?
 
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