The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if the shoulders are comfortable then dont look for trouble.
    there should be some cloth available to let out the waist.
    have the tailor check to see if there is enough in there.
    sleeves could be shorter.
     
  2. Jkhan82

    Jkhan82 Senior member

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    What do you guys think about these pants? to short?

    also, how can I get rid of the rolls of fabric that appear when I walk?

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    Ignore the shoes below....

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    Last edited: May 6, 2012
  3. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    question for the tailors - I know it's fairly common to have a dropped shoulder, but I have this nagging feeling that often the breast pocket adds another layer that keeps the chest area filled, so that hte other side collapses without it, making it seem like that second side has a lower shoulder, when maybe both are low... am I right with the hunch there? As in, does the breast pocket provide that side of the chest with more reinforcement so it doesn't show the fabric compressed?
     
  4. blc456

    blc456 Senior member

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    Hello,

    I recently got a suit that is the best OTR fit I have ever had (Benjamin suit from Ehaberdasher), but the one issue is some collar gap. Is this fixable? And if so how involved is it?

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    Thanks for any help! :)
     
  5. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Hi the outside welt or Breast pocket does fill out a fused suit on that side. If you went to a Bespoke Tailor who use Camel and Horse hair in the body this would not be an issue.
    The most important thing in a suit is the cut. This is how you appear in your suit from 5 yards plus away. When you are close to someone in proximity they will be looking at your eyes face etc rather than the detail in your suit.
    Hope this helps
    Brendon
     
  6. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    I cannot see anything to recommend this jacket. Send it back. The alterations would probably cost more than the jacket and even then it would be a poor job.
    good luck
    Brendon
     
  7. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    This is acceptable in England if the coat is what is termed very straight in the pattern...Sitting off the neck may not be a problem if the cut is flattering. However I think I can see by the lapel that this coat is crooked and is trying to jump to the neck. Therefore if you have chosen fashion forward ie actually too tight all over then the coat will leap off the neck if the coat is too tight in the chest. ie it wont sit down. If this is not the case all you can do is pass the back up on the coat. Make a mark on the front side seam , another mark on the back side seam say 1/2 an inch below the corresponding mark. Move the lower mark up to the top marrk pushing the seams past each other. You will have added some length to the back of the coat which may help. The off the peg coats will not have the appropriate inlay to do the correct alteration which is to correctly balance the coat.
    Hope this helps
    Good luck
    Brendon
     
  8. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    The trousers are clattering into your calf as you stand on your trousers. The button on the jacket is too high which accentuates the coat projecting outwards from below the button. Trousers hard to fix. All you can do is clear out the seat. as an exercise to demonstrate what you are doing turn side on as you are and stand errect upright and see the trousers tuck up under your seat and hit your calf muscles.
    A pleated trouser with a larger fork area may help disguise this a little
    Good luck, suggestion go to London see a Savile Row Tailor for about 5k US$
    If I can think of anything will reply further
    regards
    Brendon
     
  9. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    In my opinion the coat is too long in the back ie back balance if this is your natural posture. Fashion garment do tend to be too tight rather than fitting. Look likes you have slept in it. Look at the trousers side on, they are like corrugated roofing iron or cardboard. Welcome to the world of fashion Style over substance. When you have moved your arms up the coat is trying to fly off your body. Always a sure sign of an off the peg or factory made to measure
    Good luck
    regards
    Brendon
     
  10. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Your posture is errect. Whatever you do buy a suit with a centre vent so that the back can be passed down as an alterarion with an alteration tailor. Your trousers are too short and your posture causes all sorts of problems in the drape of the leg of a trouser. The armhole depth is not causing the bunching of the shoulder. Think of the inside vs the outside of the curve. Your front is the outside and your back the inside. One is longer one is shorter. Suggest you see a Bespoke Tailor who gives you 3 fittings etc
    good luck
    regards
    Brendon
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, definitely too big. Try other sizes and different cuts they would have more shape at the waist but If you stick to having a cotton jacket, don't try to over fit it, leave it a bit relaxed.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2012
  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Seeing two things in these pictures. Collar puling away from the neck and the jacket moving back but if you are holding the camera for these shots, it may be a effecting this. Most common cause for this is square/ high shoulders but cannot diagnose properly without full length shots and a view of your posture.
     
  13. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Brendon, you're comments are not very useful when it is impossible to tell which poster each comment is in reply to.
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The pocket does add a certain amount of structure that fills in the chest area. It's not that you have two low shoulders, you have sloping shoulders. You can fill in the gap between your shoulder and the jacket with a bit of padding. That's the only way to adjust without removing the sleeves and cutting the shoulder to be more sloped.
     
  15. blc456

    blc456 Senior member

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    Thanks Despos. Let me see if I can get some full body shots today and post those. I was not holding the camera but it does seem like my jacket "moves back" from where it originally sits (When I put it on it sits against the collar but once I start moving and it settles it seems to fall back off the collar/shoulder a bit.)
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2012

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