The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[jj02138]

A bit of a noob question, but I bought a jacket that is too large in the waist and "pit-to-pit" measurements. My question is about taking in the jacket at the side seams. Does that alteration actually reduce the "pit-to-pit" chest measurement, or just tapers the waist keep the old pit-to-pit point the same? Generally, it seems easy to narrow the waist, but can you really narrow the chest?

As a sidenote, shoulders are fine. It's just the sides down from the armholes to the bottom the are too large.

 

[Despos]

It slightly reduces the chest. Would be easier to explain with a diagram.
If the chest is too large in front and you reduce on the side seam you will see a bit of a reduction because you are pulling cloth from the from to the back but not really making the chest smaller.

If the chest is too full in front, a more effective adjustment is to open the sleeve and reduce the chest on the seam that joins the front panel to the side seam. The seam that extends from the armhole and bisects the lower front pockets.
Reduce on the front panel only or the front and the side body. Reshape the armhole into the chest to make the chest smaller and retain the armhole shape.

 

[BlackYeti]

Just received a shirt from online MTM Propercloth. I have two major issues with the shirt that I'd appreciate some recommendations for:

In the back, the shirt is too tight around the shoulders, causing lines to run beneath the yoke on either side. I could obviously just widen the shirt at the chest but I have shirts narrower in the chest that do not have this issue.

There's also some wrinkling at the top of the sleeves. In addition, when I bend my arm, the sleeve is very tight along the outside (pinky side) of my arm (so much so that it’s partially causing the aforementioned creasing in the back beneath the yoke) but leaves a lot of slack along the inside. The sleeve length is good with my arms at my side but the cuffs ride up a lot when I bend at the elbow. I'm assuming this has something to do with the sleeve pattern or how it's attached to the body of the shirt?

Obviously, if you see other issues I'd appreciate a pointer as well. (A manufacturer's error made the right yoke wider than the left; the right yoke is the width I wanted.) Thanks!

 

[nevaeh]

Hi all, may I ask a question of the tailors here: I have a suit jacket with minor fabric bunching (winkling?) on the back of the right sleeve, between my shoulder and elbow. I think this is happening due to the posture of my right arm, because the the wrinkles become less apparent when I rotate my arm forward.

Is this something a tailor can alter? How difficult is this? To my untrained mind, I am almost thinking could they rotate the sleeve backward ...

I can take photos if my description isn't clear and a visual will be helpful. Thanks!

 

[Kevin24]

Hi all,

I bought some cotton moleskin jeans earlier this week, and they already come with an inseam. However, I think it might be a tad long for my tastes.

Should I wear them some and then wash them before having them tailored?

 

[Despos]

Hi all,

I bought some cotton moleskin jeans earlier this week, and they already come with an inseam. However, I think it might be a tad long for my tastes.

Should I wear them some and then wash them before having them tailored?

Wash them, they may shrink enough and not need shortening.

 

[Despos]

Hi all, may I ask a question of the tailors here: I have a suit jacket with minor fabric bunching (winkling?) on the back of the right sleeve, between my shoulder and elbow. I think this is happening due to the posture of my right arm, because the the wrinkles become less apparent when I rotate my arm forward.

Is this something a tailor can alter? How difficult is this? To my untrained mind, I am almost thinking could they rotate the sleeve backward ...

I can take photos if my description isn't clear and a visual will be helpful. Thanks!

Most common cause is the sleeve pitch and you rotate the sleeve to correct the issue. Sometimes it's the height of the sleeve cap and you reshape the crown to correct the issue without rotating the sleeve. This doesn't happen often.
It's easier but not easy for someone who does this often like a coat maker. The trick is to sew the sleeve on again and not look different than the other sleeve. You have to replicate the sewing and finishing of the original work.

 

[Despos]

Just received a shirt from online MTM Propercloth. I have two major issues with the shirt that I'd appreciate some recommendations for:

In the back, the shirt is too tight around the shoulders, causing lines to run beneath the yoke on either side. I could obviously just widen the shirt at the chest but I have shirts narrower in the chest that do not have this issue.

There's also some wrinkling at the top of the sleeves. In addition, when I bend my arm, the sleeve is very tight along the outside (pinky side) of my arm (so much so that it’s partially causing the aforementioned creasing in the back beneath the yoke) but leaves a lot of slack along the inside. The sleeve length is good with my arms at my side but the cuffs ride up a lot when I bend at the elbow. I'm assuming this has something to do with the sleeve pattern or how it's attached to the body of the shirt?

Obviously, if you see other issues I'd appreciate a pointer as well. (A manufacturer's error made the right yoke wider than the left; the right yoke is the width I wanted.) Thanks!

View attachment 1678021 View attachment 1678022 View attachment 1678023 View attachment 1678024

Hard to diagnose with your arms crossed or raised. The folds under the yoke in back are corrected by adjusting shoulder slope. Does the yoke measure differently on the right than the left to is it a visual thing? Your right shoulder is lower than the left and might be a contributing factor. Sleeves look a bit too trim over the biceps. Fuller sleeves would balance the look. Your chest looks broad and the sleeves too narrow.
The shirt doesn't look snug or loose, right in the middle. You may not like the feel of a trim shirt but want the look of a trim shirt.

 

[nevaeh]

Most common cause is the sleeve pitch and you rotate the sleeve to correct the issue. Sometimes it's the height of the sleeve cap and you reshape the crown to correct the issue without rotating the sleeve. This doesn't happen often.
It's easier but not easy for someone who does this often like a coat maker. The trick is to sew the sleeve on again and not look different than the other sleeve. You have to replicate the sewing and finishing of the original work.

Thank you so much, @Despos. Perhaps I should leave this alone, given the complexities with replicating the original work (perhaps something not every alterations tailor might be able do?).

 

[BlackYeti]

Hard to diagnose with your arms crossed or raised. The folds under the yoke in back are corrected by adjusting shoulder slope. Does the yoke measure differently on the right than the left to is it a visual thing? Your right shoulder is lower than the left and might be a contributing factor. Sleeves look a bit too trim over the biceps. Fuller sleeves would balance the look. Your chest looks broad and the sleeves too narrow.
The shirt doesn't look snug or loose, right in the middle. You may not like the feel of a trim shirt but want the look of a trim shirt.

Thanks Chris.

The left yoke is 1/4" narrower than the right. I think the discrepancy and lighting are what's making my right shoulder look lower—in actuality my left shoulder is slightly lower.

I should be decreasing the slope of the shoulders (i.e. making it "more square") to alleviate the folds under the yoke in the back, correct? Currently the yoke does feel quite tight across the shoulders.

Great point about fuller sleeves. Would that also alleviate some of the wrinkling at the top of the sleeves (circled in one of the images in my previous post)? They're currently 8.25" wide: how much would you add to them?

 

[BlackYeti]

Thank you so much, @Despos. Perhaps I should leave this alone, given the complexities with replicating the original work (perhaps something not every alterations tailor might be able do?).

None of my alterations tailors do changes to the sleeve pitch. I've the impression it's quite difficult.

 

[Bersabee]

Hi all,

I'm trying to sort out my measurements for a Luxire order and wanted to get your thoughts on what possible adjustments I could make. The attached picture of Simon Crompton from Permanent Style is the fit I am trying to achieve.

I have pretty irregular body measurements and struggle to fit into pants OTR (Thanks Hockey!!!!). I know the jeans don't fit great but for OTR, it was the best I was able to get without the jeans looking too baggy.

Here are my thoughts on adjustments.

Potential Alterations:
- Decrease Waist Width
- Scoop the Seat
- Increase Front/Back Rise & Decrease Inseam accordingly
- Increase Calf & Thigh width
- Increase Leg opening
- Increase length a slight touch

Side note - How do I adjust inseam length if I adjust the rise?

Sizing Info:

In Inches	BR Jeans
Waist	19.75
Hips	22.5
Front Rise	12
Back Rise	18
Inseam	28.25
Outseam	39.5
Thigh	12.5
Knee	8.5
Bottom	7.75

 

[Dzzzzz]

Hi @Despos, can sleeves on a leather/suede A1 jacket like Valstar be shortened fairly easily?

View attachment 1650296

@Despos

Just making sure you see this

Thanks!

 

[Despos]

@Despos

Just making sure you see this

Thanks!

Think I did respond, take a look back to the original post

 

[Despos]

Hi all,

I'm trying to sort out my measurements for a Luxire order and wanted to get your thoughts on what possible adjustments I could make. The attached picture of Simon Crompton from Permanent Style is the fit I am trying to achieve.

I have pretty irregular body measurements and struggle to fit into pants OTR (Thanks Hockey!!!!). I know the jeans don't fit great but for OTR, it was the best I was able to get without the jeans looking too baggy.

Here are my thoughts on adjustments.

Potential Alterations:
- Decrease Waist Width
- Scoop the Seat
- Increase Front/Back Rise & Decrease Inseam accordingly
- Increase Calf & Thigh width
- Increase Leg opening
- Increase length a slight touch

Side note - How do I adjust inseam length if I adjust the rise?

Sizing Info:

In Inches	BR Jeans
Waist	19.75
Hips	22.5
Front Rise	12
Back Rise	18
Inseam	28.25
Outseam	39.5
Thigh	12.5
Knee	8.5
Bottom	7.75

View attachment 1679180 View attachment 1679181 View attachment 1679182 View attachment 1679183 View attachment 1679184

Are they making you jeans or a tailored trouser? Where did you play hockey?