The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[CasuallyWorked]

I'd be really grateful for some feedback on the fit of these flannel trousers.
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Had these made recently by a tailor over here. I like the overall fit but I think there is something small that looks a bit off, which I can't quite put my finger on.

I think they look great, maybe only go for a no break if that is your look?

 

[CasuallyWorked]

Hello everyone, I would love some advice. I just ordered a MTO jacket from S&M. I ordered it to look exactly like this jacket, except on my MTO jacket, the sleeves have surgeon/functional cuffs and are .25" inches shorter. Do you guys think that is enough or should I have gone to .50" inches?

 

[Despos]

Hello everyone, I would love some advice. I just ordered a MTO jacket from S&M. I ordered it to look exactly like this jacket, except on my MTO jacket, the sleeves have surgeon/functional cuffs and are .25" inches shorter. Do you guys think that is enough or should I have gone to .50" inches?

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Sleeves are just right in my opinion

 

[Despos]

I'd be really grateful for some feedback on the fit of these flannel trousers.
View attachment 1667071
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Had these made recently by a tailor over here. I like the overall fit but I think there is something small that looks a bit off, which I can't quite put my finger on.

Were these altered after they were finished and you had tried them on?

 

[Despos]

I bought a S&M jacket from ebay that came with functioning button holes and they look like yours. I suspect that the previous owner had them added since it was a RTW release. Are you not happy with how your sleeves came out? When I got the jacket I thought "Oh cool I've never owned a jacket with functional buttholes", so I was pleasantly surprised.

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This lining here is cut to accommodate the working buttonholes not like the sleeves in the original post. The lining on that jacket was cut for non functioning buttonholes.

 

[te0o]

Were these altered after they were finished and you had tried them on?

Yes. Initially, they took the trousers straight to finish based on the measurements (the drawback of a London City tailor compared to someone in Mayfair). However, the result wasn't pleasing - too slim, too long and the hip pockets were flaring out a lot.

The subsequent alterations were: the entire leg line was let out, more so at the thighs, but also through the knees and hem.. The waist was let out by a very small amount as well, and I think there was also a very minor reduction in fabric around the hip/seat area where the side seam is (I could be wrong on this last one).

 

[CasuallyWorked]

This lining here is cut to accommodate the working buttonholes not like the sleeves in the original post. The lining on that jacket was cut for non functioning buttonholes.

I see, so on my jacket that is the appropriate way to do it? Thank you for always providing some input, learning a lot about how to properly ask my tailor things. So many variables it can get overwhelming sometimes.

 

[Despos]

I see, so on my jacket that is the appropriate way to do it? Thank you for always providing some input, learning a lot about how to properly ask my tailor things. So many variables it can get overwhelming sometimes.

The sleeve lining on your jacket sleeves is open to the top of the vent so when you unbutton the sleeves the top sleeve and bottom sleeve separate fully. The other sleeve lining is not open to the top of the vent. The lining seam is sewn down to almost the hem in one piece. You cannot open the vent and have two separate panels.
Look inside any of your jackets without working buttonholes. See the difference?

It is more work to cut and sew in the lining for an open vent. It always has to be done by hand. Can be done by machine when it is not an open vent.

 

[Despos]

Yes. Initially, they took the trousers straight to finish based on the measurements (the drawback of a London City tailor compared to someone in Mayfair). However, the result wasn't pleasing - too slim, too long and the hip pockets were flaring out a lot.

The subsequent alterations were: the entire leg line was let out, more so at the thighs, but also through the knees and hem.. The waist was let out by a very small amount as well, and I think there was also a very minor reduction in fabric around the hip/seat area where the side seam is (I could be wrong on this last one).

They still look too trim in the upper thigh area. The side view looks trim in the thigh and wider as it goes down the leg to the hem. The back view shows pulling at the crotch to the knee. The awkward lines across the front of the trouser are from being snug across the front panel and have to say, caused by the quality of construction . You still have some bowing on the side seams at the bottom of the pocket.

Those are my observations and not sure how to advise you of what can be done.

 

[te0o]

They still look too trim in the upper thigh area. The side view looks trim in the thigh and wider as it goes down the leg to the hem. The back view shows pulling at the crotch to the knee. The awkward lines across the front of the trouser are from being snug across the front panel and have to say, caused by the quality of construction . You still have some bowing on the side seams at the bottom of the pocket.

Those are my observations and not sure how to advise you of what can be done.

Thank you very much for taking the time to explain all this. I'll (gently) point all of this out to the tailor and ask for a resolution. I imagine the issues caused by lack of room should be easy enough to fix, i.e. letting out of the thigh and the crotch as well as the front? Alas, I'm not surprised by the point on lackluster construction quality - I guess I got what I paid for.

 

[Despos]

Thank you very much for taking the time to explain all this. I'll (gently) point all of this out to the tailor and ask for a resolution. I imagine the issues caused by lack of room should be easy enough to fix, i.e. letting out of the thigh and the crotch as well as the front? Alas, I'm not surprised by the point on lackluster construction quality - I guess I got what I paid for.

Thinking these were ordered MTM, cut from a block and the people you worked with use current style trends as guidance on fit. Any resolve on this pair is dependent on the amount of outlet available.

 

[AunToni]

Your right hip is higher than the left. This pulls the right outseam upwards and pulls the crease off center. Grab the trouser leg mid thigh and pull downwards. The crease will center itself.
This is corrected properly in the cutting stage.
Can be adjusted by opening the outseam on the right side and shifting the front downwards but will only help a little. Won't completely correct the issue.
Could remove the waistband and lower the left side, making the right side higher. may help or can cause the same issue on the left side.
Cannot answer why it happens on some trousers and not others.

Thank you!
I guess I'll try to go bespoke more and be more careful when buying pants in the future.

 

[te0o]

Thinking these were ordered MTM, cut from a block and the people you worked with use current style trends as guidance on fit. Any resolve on this pair is dependent on the amount of outlet available.

Did these with Graham Brown in London. I guess they can be called a bespoke tailor (albeit at a much lower end compared to Saville Row) given the reliance on traditional methods (paper patterns cut, basted fittings, etc). However, with a trouser commission they definitely cut corners (no fittings, no pattern, etc) - and indeed, could be done via a block. I think in this case the initial measurements underestimated the width that I wanted to have.

There was plenty of inlay in the beginning, obviously now that will be reduced after the initial alterations but I believe will be enough left to at least alleviate part of the issues you described.

Is resolving these types of issues typically dependent simply on how much inlay there is or some extend beyond that, i.e. are more fundamental and can't be fixed?

 

[Despos]

have them altered and see what happens. Will be improved if the outlets are there. The trouser may actually be better in real life. Static pictures often distort the fit and you see things that aren't actually there

 

[rdstour]

Hey tailoring experts, seeking feedback on the following two suits (I'll need to pick one).
The main alterations identified so far relate to lengthening the sleeve and hemming the trousers.

The 1st suit is from Sid Mashburn. Kincaid No.2. Fits me fairly well, but has strange wrinkling along the back--not sure what is causing this. My hunch is something along the back shoulder blade / underarm area.

2nd Suit is Cavour's Mod 2 (more unstructured etc). This fits slightly looser,with a bit more drape, seems fairly clean down the back, but feels like there could be some additional waist suppression.