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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

blewnote1

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Do you have photos? There's no reason for the vents to be sewn shut once you've shortened the sleeves. They can be different lengths assuming your arms are different lengths--you should judge by seeing how much shirt sleeve is visible on each arm. Tailors will measure from the bottom of your thumb to the shirt sleeve to have an accurate measure on both sides.
PXL_20210731_033821828.jpg
PXL_20210731_034253577.jpg
PXL_20210731_034256367.jpg
PXL_20210731_032952594.jpg
 

acapaca

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I'm not an expert, but I'm a pretty experienced user in this regard, since I've had sleeves shortened countless times -- and I've certainly used, or had little choice but to use, a whole range of tailors.

I have had tailors tell me that they can't keep the sleeve vents, for whatever reason, before they do the work, which I appreciated. I've had others remove it without telling me. I've had others keep it. I don't know this for sure, but I'm guessing it has to do with how much you need to remove from the length. I'm presuming there is not enough material to fashion a new vent beyond what is already there, meaning further up the sleeve, and that a vent too short can be undesirable.

As for the faux buttonholes, I've had those re-installed by tailors I trust -- it certainly can be done, no doubt about that -- and have specifically requested of other tailors that they not even try. Not every RTW manufacturer uses them at any rate, so I chalk that one up to decorative choice and don't worry much about it.

Now, as for the length of the respective arms, my guess is that your tailor tried to leave your left sleeve longer in order to match your 'lower' left hand. I say 'lower' because I can see that your left thumb ends lower in relation to the jacket body than your right thumb does. However, it appears to me that you have a dropped right shoulder, on the opposite side! So I'm not quite sure what to make of this. I have a dropped right shoulder, too, but the result on me is that it is my right hand that ends up lower than my left. Yours is the other way round, but I suppose the shoulder is not the only issue at play here. Some of it can also do with how we hold our arms or even how straight our spines.

At any rate, in your last pic things look the least off. Judging by that pic, I'd venture to guess that removing a half-inch from your left sleeve length would straighten things out enough. (In the first pic it looked more off than that, but a shirt cuff that is too loose and long will definitely throw things off too.) The good news is that given the construction the sleeves now have -- no vent, no faux buttonholes -- adjustments should be straightforward. I'd ask the tailor to get an equal measurement from the ends of the thumbs, as another poster mentioned, and take it from there. But of course you will have to stand as 'naturally' as you can, and that may be the hardest part! Good luck. Jacket looks great otherwise, by the way.
 

blewnote1

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I'm not an expert, but I'm a pretty experienced user in this regard, since I've had sleeves shortened countless times -- and I've certainly used, or had little choice but to use, a whole range of tailors.

I have had tailors tell me that they can't keep the sleeve vents, for whatever reason, before they do the work, which I appreciated. I've had others remove it without telling me. I've had others keep it. I don't know this for sure, but I'm guessing it has to do with how much you need to remove from the length. I'm presuming there is not enough material to fashion a new vent beyond what is already there, meaning further up the sleeve, and that a vent too short can be undesirable.

As for the faux buttonholes, I've had those re-installed by tailors I trust -- it certainly can be done, no doubt about that -- and have specifically requested of other tailors that they not even try. Not every RTW manufacturer uses them at any rate, so I chalk that one up to decorative choice and don't worry much about it.

Now, as for the length of the respective arms, my guess is that your tailor tried to leave your left sleeve longer in order to match your 'lower' left hand. I say 'lower' because I can see that your left thumb ends lower in relation to the jacket body than your right thumb does. However, it appears to me that you have a dropped right shoulder, on the opposite side! So I'm not quite sure what to make of this. I have a dropped right shoulder, too, but the result on me is that it is my right hand that ends up lower than my left. Yours is the other way round, but I suppose the shoulder is not the only issue at play here. Some of it can also do with how we hold our arms or even how straight our spines.

At any rate, in your last pic things look the least off. Judging by that pic, I'd venture to guess that removing a half-inch from your left sleeve length would straighten things out enough. (In the first pic it looked more off than that, but a shirt cuff that is too loose and long will definitely throw things off too.) The good news is that given the construction the sleeves now have -- no vent, no faux buttonholes -- adjustments should be straightforward. I'd ask the tailor to get an equal measurement from the ends of the thumbs, as another poster mentioned, and take it from there. But of course you will have to stand as 'naturally' as you can, and that may be the hardest part! Good luck. Jacket looks great otherwise, by the way.
Thanks for the info! They did have to take a decent amount of length off the sleeves so I could understand if that changes things. I just thought it odd that he didn't mention anything about it and I just got it back that way with no explanation.

I also noticed what you were saying with regards to my arms when I was picking which pictures to post, although I think it was exaggerated both by my stance and posture and perhaps the angle my wife was holding the phone and I just didn't feel like imposing on my wife to take more. I have a feeling I was holding myself funny when he measured me and maybe that's what did it.

I was worried to take it back to the same person in case they just didn't know what they were doing, but it sounds like the sleeve vent/buttons thing is typical in this situation and it's just getting the length right.
 

nevaeh

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Thanks for the info! They did have to take a decent amount of length off the sleeves so I could understand if that changes things. I just thought it odd that he didn't mention anything about it and I just got it back that way with no explanation.

I also noticed what you were saying with regards to my arms when I was picking which pictures to post, although I think it was exaggerated both by my stance and posture and perhaps the angle my wife was holding the phone and I just didn't feel like imposing on my wife to take more. I have a feeling I was holding myself funny when he measured me and maybe that's what did it.

I was worried to take it back to the same person in case they just didn't know what they were doing, but it sounds like the sleeve vent/buttons thing is typical in this situation and it's just getting the length right.
Other than the sleeve vent question, your jacket and fit look sharp!
 

acapaca

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Thanks for the info! They did have to take a decent amount of length off the sleeves so I could understand if that changes things. I just thought it odd that he didn't mention anything about it and I just got it back that way with no explanation.

I also noticed what you were saying with regards to my arms when I was picking which pictures to post, although I think it was exaggerated both by my stance and posture and perhaps the angle my wife was holding the phone and I just didn't feel like imposing on my wife to take more. I have a feeling I was holding myself funny when he measured me and maybe that's what did it.

I was worried to take it back to the same person in case they just didn't know what they were doing, but it sounds like the sleeve vent/buttons thing is typical in this situation and it's just getting the length right.
Yeah, I know exactly what you mean. It can drive you nuts to try to dial in the sleeves perfectly, in no small part because it all changes every time you move.

That said, I've found it helps to be really careful what shirt you wear when you go to get marked at the tailor or alterations shop. I actually have a go-to that I try to wear for this purpose, because not only is the combination of cuff width and sleeve length perfect but also it's a striped shirt with the stripes perfectly matching on both cuffs, giving me (and the person marking me) a great point of reference. I've had trouble in the past when my shirt sleeves were too long (if the cuff was also too loose).

Wear the jacket well!
 

Despos

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As a tailor It's very easy when marking jacket sleeve length to be inaccurate. Can't explain why. When it happens I adjust the sleeve that is off and just accept that it happens.
Think its partly me and sometimes how a client stands, moves or how relaxed he is when marking the sleeves. If there is shoulder work done at the same time, it can effect sleeve length and I try to do the alteration in two steps. Adjust the shoulder, then mark the sleeves.
To manage the variables I never mark the jacket sleeve in relation to the shirt sleeve regardless how perfect the shirt may fit. The shirt sleeve length is not a fixed point.
Ask the client to relax his arm and bend his thumb up as if he was hitch hiking. I mark the length where the jacket sleeve rests on the thumb. Half the time it's this point +0.25" or according to the clients preference. That point on your wrist doesn't change so it is a consistent point to establish a precise sleeve length.
This is a sure way to know if your jacket sleeves are the correct length or if the shirt sleeve length or cuff circumference should be changed.
 

donkeybro

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I'm new here but I've had the sleeves of my coats shortened by different tailors.

One guy removed the vents without asking me, and very rudely claimed that that's the only way it could be done so he didn't bother warning me and I should've known better. I think the sleeves might have been shortened for 1.5-2". I was pretty upset since I enjoy having some skirt to flap around. I donated the coat soon after since it was a very cheap coat I bought in Korea in the winter, not knowing anything about material etc.

A lady tailor helped me shortened a coat and kept the sleeve vents perfectly - she did say it's pretty hard to do and she was able to do it with additional cost and only because of some properties on the sleeves...I believe she mentioned that she needed to fold something in or cut out a piece to patch it somewhere else... I'm clueless as I didn't pay much attention back then.

Upon inspection there seems to be nothing strange with my sleeves...all 8 buttonholes are perfectly done, button position fit into buttonholes very well, and there is also nothing wrong with the pattern matching. My only suspicion is that the lining on the sleeve button side is much closer to the edge than the other parts of the coat, so she might have done something to that side such as cutting it at an angle and perhaps resewing some lining and changing the button positions. If that's her secret then I can imagine the vent will need to have a wider overlapping area on the button side. To be fair to the first tailor, the lady charged me USD150 for alteration and gave me 1 fitting before the final delivery; the whole process took around 4 weeks.

No issue on sleeve lengths from both tailors.
 

Kansai22

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Hello I just purchased a suit and am getting alterations done. I am interested in hearing opinions on what I should have altered?

The big question for me is are the sleeves too short on the jacket?

What other suggestions on alterations do you have?

spier and mackay before alterations 1.jpg
spier and mackay 2 .jpg
 

Canadianguy

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Hello I just purchased a suit and am getting alterations done. I am interested in hearing opinions on what I should have altered?

The big question for me is are the sleeves too short on the jacket?

What other suggestions on alterations do you have?

View attachment 1653009View attachment 1653012
IMO they are about 1/2 inch too short. Tailor should be able to lengthen.
 

circumspice

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Hello I just purchased a suit and am getting alterations done. I am interested in hearing opinions on what I should have altered?

The big question for me is are the sleeves too short on the jacket?

What other suggestions on alterations do you have?

View attachment 1653009View attachment 1653012
Is this suit available in a long size, or is this it? I ask because if this is a R, the extra sleeve length and coat length might be better with a L
 

DapperPhilly

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Hello I just purchased a suit and am getting alterations done. I am interested in hearing opinions on what I should have altered?

The big question for me is are the sleeves too short on the jacket?

What other suggestions on alterations do you have?

View attachment 1653009View attachment 1653012
Sleeves are too short. I like to show a bit of cuff but thats too much.
 

Kansai22

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Is this suit available in a long size, or is this it? I ask because if this is a R, the extra sleeve length and coat length might be better with a L
This is a 40L.

I have long arms I wear a size 16" - 36" for shirts.

Do you all think I should try a size larger next time perhaps a 42L?

The suit is from Spier and Mackay.
 

circumspice

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This is a 40L.

I have long arms I wear a size 16" - 36" for shirts.

Do you all think I should try a size larger next time perhaps a 42L?

The suit is from Spier and Mackay.
Might be worth a shot. There appears to be a bit of lapel bowing, indicating you could use a bit more room in the chest, but the coat has extended shoulders, so I am not sure if up a size they will overhang too much
 

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