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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

monkk

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Sr. @Despos, I need your advice - on the suit jacket back I have rather prominent collapse (seems it's vertical). Local tailor thinks that material needs to be taken in where I marked. Is this right approach?
In my logic, since this is back part of armhole, shouldn't armhole be be symmetrical on front and back on how much it protrudes to the side?
Thank you in advance!
aa.jpg
 

Despos

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folds of cloth like that sometimes have multiple issues to address.
Has this jacket been worked on/altered or is the jacket just as it was purchased? Pictures show the area of the back but not the overall fit.
Reducing the back doesn't change the symmetry of the armhole . Just the back width is changed.
The collapsing at the ends of the shoulder are the bigger issue.
Proper adjustment may include some shoulder work.
Can't reduce the back as much as needed without narrowing the shoulder. Sleeves have to be removed and reshaped.
The weird fold is from tension and may not be sewn properly. That's why I asked if someone has worked on this jacket
 

monkk

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folds of cloth like that sometimes have multiple issues to address.
Has this jacket been worked on/altered or is the jacket just as it was purchased? Pictures show the area of the back but not the overall fit.
Reducing the back doesn't change the symmetry of the armhole . Just the back width is changed.
The collapsing at the ends of the shoulder are the bigger issue.
Proper adjustment may include some shoulder work.
Can't reduce the back as much as needed without narrowing the shoulder. Sleeves have to be removed and reshaped.
The weird fold is from tension and may not be sewn properly. That's why I asked if someone has worked on this jacket
It's sort of "bespoke" and definitely had some work on center seam to fix some other issues. This collapse under armhole was pointed, but never fixed. I gave up this on this "bespoke" thing in general as there are numerous other issues on jacket and pants are complete bust, thus looking local tailor if they can salvage anything good from what's there.
I probably explained it bit incorrectly - local tailor suggest to "remove" this orange marked fold, by removing sleeve and then taking-in/narrowing back side of shoulder. But is that right approach?
Apologies for non-tailor language explaining the issue.
 
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Despos

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Could see from the grain line on the back that the center back was taken in. Jacket looks too big and needs a recut. More work than just an alteration. Sorry you had a bad experience.
 

nevaeh

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Sr. @Despos, I need your advice - on the suit jacket back I have rather prominent collapse (seems it's vertical). Local tailor thinks that material needs to be taken in where I marked. Is this right approach?
In my logic, since this is back part of armhole, shouldn't armhole be be symmetrical on front and back on how much it protrudes to the side?
Thank you in advance!
View attachment 1614649
Out of curiosity, since you use "bespoke" in quotes, was this through a remote or online service? I tried online MTM during the height of the pandemic and, through the guidance of @Despos and others, realized that the first one needed a complete remake. And then the remake needed a remake. It was like the Inception version of a suit. Needless to say, I gave up and will not do remote again till we've perfected teleportation technology. :)

I am hoping yours is more salvageable than that, though!
 

monkk

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Out of curiosity, since you use "bespoke" in quotes, was this through a remote or online service? I tried online MTM during the height of the pandemic and, through the guidance of @Despos and others, realized that the first one needed a complete remake. And then the remake needed a remake. It was like the Inception version of a suit. Needless to say, I gave up and will not do remote again till we've perfected teleportation technology. :)

I am hoping yours is more salvageable than that, though!
This was done in real face to face fittings, last summer, with one of those new and young traveling "tailors/fitters" who is proxy for some house in Naples. His RTW jacket was recently covered in PS.
My lesson is that no matter what, never do anything bespoke if you don't meet master tailor.
 

monkk

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Could see from the grain line on the back that the center back was taken in. Jacket looks too big and needs a recut. More work than just an alteration. Sorry you had a bad experience.
Probably I see what you mean - in other photos seems fold is extending below armhole, thus removing sleeve and removing some cloth around the shoulder/whole would not fix the issue.
Thanks for help @Despos.
IMG_2092.JPG
 

Despos

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This is a better picture to see what's going on. This is the old school Neapolitan pattern with full blades.
If you want a cleaner blade it has to be taken in on the sides. The back should be let out to original and then the sides reduced.
The back balance is a touch short, maybe by .5". Your left blade is more prominent than the left and is contributing to the odd fold of cloth on the left blade. Need more length over the left side. Cleaning up the blades requires some sewing skill to work the back scye short.
This looks like an open weave and why I don't like half lining on a cloth like this. You can see where the lining stops and your shirt shows thru from bottom of armhole to the trouser.
 

monkk

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This is a better picture to see what's going on. This is the old school Neapolitan pattern with full blades.
If you want a cleaner blade it has to be taken in on the sides. The back should be let out to original and then the sides reduced.
The back balance is a touch short, maybe by .5". Your left blade is more prominent than the left and is contributing to the odd fold of cloth on the left blade. Need more length over the left side. Cleaning up the blades requires some sewing skill to work the back scye short.
This looks like an open weave and why I don't like half lining on a cloth like this. You can see where the lining stops and your shirt shows thru from bottom of armhole to the trouser.
Quite impressive eye for the details!
Yes, it's open weave and white lining reflects like crazy in photos with flash.
Upon your notice, I was looking why half lining line is not horizontal, and here probably your another explanation makes sense, that left blade is more prominent and needs more length on left side.
When you say - side reduced. Would reducing around armhole would be enough or it should also be done on side seams, below armhole?
I'm rather hesitant to put much effort in suit which is sub-par and looking cheapest way to solve some issues.
 

Despos

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Not sure I would call this a sub-par jacket. Haven't seen the front but this is pretty good for a first attempt, knowing the issues to fit your shoulder blades. The fullness you circled is a style of drape. It is in the DNA of some old Italian pattern systems. It doesn't look clean because the full blades distort things.
Cannot isolate reducing the back scye at the armhole only. Start at the waist and reduce on the back part only, not the side body, to the shoulder. One straight, clean line.
I post here so you are aware of your own personal fitting issues. When you are deciding on a maker this is what you can discuss and see how they approach fitting you. Is they dismiss it or don't know what to do you can use that as a reason to not use them. If they understand and can explain what to do and agree that their system of construction can accommodate this then you can feel more secure using them.
It is common to most tailors to discover the extent of adjustments required on the first suit. Sometimes you don't see or realize the full extent of fitting issues until you see the finished garment.
 

monkk

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Thank you Mr. @Despos, that's invaluable information few newbies like me! I feel there is so much more to lean and usual internet sources like SF.net or PS.com would not cut it. I know that there are different pattern systems, which probably makes a lot of difference, but is there source/book how to learn fitting in more technical terms?
I guess choosing old/experiences/well referred tailor would be good option to learn fitting nuances, your body and get good result. I choose complete opposite and now regret.
I call it sub-par because:
1. I choose cloth from book with tailor, but had trouble scaling swatch to big picture so asked if he had something done in this particular cloth. He showed example navy suit on his Instagram which I accepted. Mine arrived midnight navy instead regular navy. Excuse was Instagram filters/lightning etc. However I can never achieve same navy photo as was shown with any conditions. In fact, never even asked to cross check against book as well.
2. Requested natural shoulder without shirring. Got slight 'rollino' with shirring which was not removed in following iterations despite requesting.
3. Was very specific that pants should sit on hip bone. On first fitting they came up baggy/saggy and rise higher ± 8cm. Asking to reduce raise was met with excuse that this is style etc. I did not point with finger to other issues since it was basted fitting, but demanded to reduce rise.
4. Final pants came up awful. Flying gap was attempted to fix by moving waist band button to right, when it's obvious they are too tight. Opening pleats two times where discounted as forgot to iron and I can do this myself.
Other issues won't mention, but will put some pictures below.
5. There were small issues which showed lack of attention to details: 3/2 non functional button hole was done reverse (ugly side up) and refused to fix, pick stitching was running from skirt into lapel so high, that once lapel rolled, ugly side of pick stitching was seen, albeit this was fixed after pointing.

Stupidly, on "final" fitting (in rather poor late evening light) I was willing to accept some issues as fine for first suit. Some pictures below. Although, I feel there was some trickery to conceal some issues by pulling jacket here and there, or pulling pants up to reduce tightness on the hips, etc.
Jacket evening.jpg

Pants evening.jpg


Following days I want to local tailor asking to re-iron pleats and press the suit, where I was alerted that there are some fundamental issues. Just to illustrate some photos from basted fitting as well as final suit (please excuse my poor photography skills).
Upon asking tailor, who made, suit questions next day I was met with his surprise why I was happy on fitting and not happy now. Well, it was my first suit and probably was overwhelmed by all the details, poor lightning and not wanting to be an ass. But upon being pointed by local tailor I started looking more closely and asking questions by other tailors or on internet forums.
Eventually he agreed to remake pants if I send my odd bespoke pants which fit I like. Not to make new ones, but to copy someones else work. I refused since these are odd trousers, narrower, shorted, sportier.
From what I gathered from all sources, pants are suit bust, where I still try to salvage jacket to wear as odd blazer. But it being midnight navy is not that much of a use.
Finally, I paid only 50%, got into dispute with tailor (or fitter with 5 year experience being proxy for some Naples house) and not willing to give him chance to fix it all or even make new suit. Or I am wrong here?
Back basted.jpg
1.jpg
2~2.jpg

Final pants and jacket back next day. I swear to God there are no tennis balls in back pockets. I just let pants sit naturally.
Pants1.jpg
Back roll.jpg

button line.JPG
IMG_2036.JPG
pants.JPG
left.JPG
IMG_2215.JPG

p back.JPG
IMG_2219.JPG
 

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BPL Esq

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I just received a Minnis fresco Sartoria Formosa suit via NMWA (single-breasted). It looks and fits great overall. I have one question though. It's a 3 roll 2, and the lapel roll seems to continue down to and perhaps past the button I need to use. This results in the button being spun around to face me when I button the jacket, and it looks odd (I mean it spins around to the left so that the right side of the jacket close to the button ends up looking folded under). Is this something that should 'relax out' of the jacket, something that isn't actually an issue and I'm simply not accustomed to having never seen this on other suits I've owned, or do I need to have someone do something to adjust the roll of the lapel so that my button isn't getting twisted? If I need to try posting a photo, I can arrange that.

Edit: I went back and tried it on again, and the issue seemed less pronounced, which makes me think maybe the jacket simply hasn't spent much or any time being buttoned and will sort itself out. Thoughts are still welcome, of course.

I know you have other things going on, but paging @Despos in case you have an opportunity to weigh in.
 
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Kevin24

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IMG_6407.jpg


Does the bottom/tails of this shirt look too long to wear untucked?

It's a J. Press short sleeve shirt (medium size). Overall, it looks fine when tucked in. However, in front of a mirror, it looks kind of long tbh (at least to me)

Should I size down?
 

Canadianguy

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View attachment 1617242

Does the bottom/tails of this shirt look too long to wear untucked?

It's a J. Press short sleeve shirt (medium size). Overall, it looks fine when tucked in. However, in front of a mirror, it looks kind of long tbh (at least to me)

Should I size down?
If it’s brand new consider that it will likely shrink up to a full inch in length if washed and put in a warm dryer. I’d say you should be fine.

If necessary, shortening a shirt is also a fairly straightforward alteration.
 
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Kevin24

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If it’s brand new consider that it will likely shrink up to a full inch in length if washed and put in a warm dryer. I’d say you should be fine.

If necessary, shortening a shirt is also a fairly straightforward alteration.
It is brand new, it's also I believe Chambray.
 

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