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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

buddyfuzz

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Definite progress being made with MTM - anyone have any input on how they would improve this?

My thoughts are:
Slope the back of the left shoulder slightly
Possibly take in left side of half back slightly (if I don't think the sloping mentioned above will clean it up enough)
Take in jacket waist a little bit for more shape
Reduce jacket seat/bottom

Sleeve length isn't an issue as they come unfinished.

Thanks!
 

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Despos

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My thoughts are:
Slope the back of the left shoulder slightly
Possibly take in left side of half back slightly (if I don't think the sloping mentioned above will clean it up enough)
Take in jacket waist a little bit for more shape
Reduce jacket seat/bottom
Sloping the shoulder more is not correct. You would benefit if the shoulder was cut higher with less slope. Are you ok with the prominent bump just before the end of the shoulder and then the shoulder dropping off like this? This is showing the shoulder is cut too sloped. The shoulder height shoulder correspond to the highest point, where the prominent bump is and not the tip of the shoulder.

This jacket can be taken in on the left side from just above the waist line to the shoulder. Both the blade and the back scye shrunk with an iron. If the folds of cloth the left side were more on a diagonal angle it would be a balance issue but these are vertical enough to suggest the jacket is just too full/wide/big in that area.

Shaping the waist on the side seams may cause issues. Shaping the front on the seam joining the side body to the front panel would be more effective but doubt it is the makers system.
Cannot see any reason to reduce the jacket seat/bottom. It's borderline snug now.
The collar is low in the back and away from your neck. This is very difficult to adjust with such square shoulders but it is possible to do.
 

buddyfuzz

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Sloping the shoulder more is not correct. You would benefit if the shoulder was cut higher with less slope. Are you ok with the prominent bump just before the end of the shoulder and then the shoulder dropping off like this? This is showing the shoulder is cut too sloped. The shoulder height shoulder correspond to the highest point, where the prominent bump is and not the tip of the shoulder.

This jacket can be taken in on the left side from just above the waist line to the shoulder. Both the blade and the back scye shrunk with an iron. If the folds of cloth the left side were more on a diagonal angle it would be a balance issue but these are vertical enough to suggest the jacket is just too full/wide/big in that area.

Shaping the waist on the side seams may cause issues. Shaping the front on the seam joining the side body to the front panel would be more effective but doubt it is the makers system.
Cannot see any reason to reduce the jacket seat/bottom. It's borderline snug now.
The collar is low in the back and away from your neck. This is very difficult to adjust with such square shoulders but it is possible to do.
Thanks. I'm ok with the prominent bump. The shoulder is completely unpadded and the bone protrudes there. I like the unpadded/structured feel so realise that's something I'll have to deal with.

I always assumed the bump was there because that is the literal shape of my shoulder. I'm struggling to understand how cutting less slope would change that when there's no support inside the shoulder in the form of padding etc?

I have tried having the left shoulder more square, which gave even more drag lines (some of which were more diagonal further down on the back):
1621203103756.png
 
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Despos

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Those aren't diagonal drag lines and the shoulder bump is less in this picture. The back is just too wide. Making the shoulder more square will eliminate the bump. Sloping will make it more pronounced. Shoulder pads fill in the empty space between the blade/back curvature and the sleeve. They are not support they are a filler. Haircloth in the making of the canvass is how you support the shoulder regardless of using a shoulder pad or not using a pad. This picture makes me think the left blade is more prominent than the right. Has the signs of being so.
reading your response again. If they lowered at the neck to make the shoulder line more square it would shorten the back balance and create diagonal lines. If they make the shoulder more square by going up at the shoulder point it doesn’t effect the balance and would not cause diagonal drag lines. Cause and effect at play.
 
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buddyfuzz

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Those aren't diagonal drag lines and the shoulder bump is less in this picture. The back is just too wide. Making the shoulder more square will eliminate the bump. Sloping will make it more pronounced. Shoulder pads fill in the empty space between the blade/back curvature and the sleeve. They are not support they are a filler. Haircloth in the making of the canvass is how you support the shoulder regardless of using a shoulder pad or not using a pad. This picture makes me think the left blade is more prominent than the right. Has the signs of being so.
reading your response again. If they lowered at the neck to make the shoulder line more square it would shorten the back balance and create diagonal lines. If they make the shoulder more square by going up at the shoulder point it doesn’t effect the balance and would not cause diagonal drag lines. Cause and effect at play.
Got it, thanks!
So if I understand correctly, the takeaway advice is square the left shoulder (have confirmed they raise the shoulder rather lower the neck) and take in the back on the left side from the shoulder to the waist. Then if more waist shape is desired, take in the seam where the front of the jacket meets the side body?

Thank you
 

Despos

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Got it, thanks!
So if I understand correctly, the takeaway advice is square the left shoulder (have confirmed they raise the shoulder rather lower the neck) and take in the back on the left side from the shoulder to the waist. Then if more waist shape is desired, take in the seam where the front of the jacket meets the side body?

Thank you
When I comment about corrections/adjustments, the intent is to show you cause and effect for the issues I see. The way I would make the adjustments may not be the way your maker would. They may not understand my methods and you risk making things worse. There is more to making the adjustments than what I explain. Example, If you raise the shoulder to square it, it effects the size and shape of the armhole and therefore the sleeve. If they don't reconcile the sleeve to the new size/shape of the armhole you have a new issue to deal with. If they reduce the side seam but don't work the blade and scye short you won't see much change. All this has to be in their play book. MTM factories that I know don't want to or have the capacity to do these things.
Tell them what changes you want to see and rely on their solutions.
 

JIMIG

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Hi. Is it possible to lower the gorge height of a jacket? I understand that the lapel hole can cause problems, but is it doable?
 

AmicusCuriae

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Picked up this sportcoat cheap in a lovely Loro Piana fabric, but fit is somewhat different than hoped for. Mainly concerned on length and chest. Thoughts? Shorter than ideal but hoping it isn't too noticeable/unflattering.
Photo_2021-05-19,_2_51_35_PM.jpg

Photo_2021-05-19,_2_50_53_PM.jpg
Photo_2021-05-19,_2_52_12_PM.jpg
 

Despos

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Hi. Is it possible to lower the gorge height of a jacket? I understand that the lapel hole can cause problems, but is it doable?
You need cloth to make a new top collar. When you lower the gorge the collar needs to be longer. Have to make a new under collar and need a longer top collar. Sometimes there is enough cloth if the top collar has outlets. You can see the outlets folded under at both ends of the collar. If you don't see the cloth folded under on the ends of the collar, there is no outlet to work with and you need a new piece of cloth.
If the lapel buttonhole is cut thru the buttonhole moves closer to the top edge and may look weird.
 

Despos

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BPL Esq

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Picked up this sportcoat cheap in a lovely Loro Piana fabric, but fit is somewhat different than hoped for. Mainly concerned on length and chest. Thoughts? Shorter than ideal but hoping it isn't too noticeable/unflattering.
It looks to me like maybe you could use a bit more room in the chest area, but the length isn't bad. Very slightly short but not the stupid, trendy, way-too-short look at all. Your seat area is mostly covered.
 

Despos

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It looks to me like maybe you could use a bit more room in the chest area, but the length isn't bad. Very slightly short but not the stupid, trendy, way-too-short look at all. Your seat area is mostly covered.
Chest looks big to me, jacket looks almost one size too big.
 

BPL Esq

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Chest looks big to me, jacket looks almost one size too big.
I defer to you as the expert here. I saw the appearance of diagonal pulling around the buttoning point and thought maybe something needed to be let out just a little.
 

Despos

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I defer to you as the expert here. I saw the appearance of diagonal pulling around the buttoning point and thought maybe something needed to be let out just a little.
Think he doesn't have the anchor button done up.
That pulling on the button is generally first a balance issue and second most common cause is a snug waist.
 

AmicusCuriae

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I defer to you as the expert here. I saw the appearance of diagonal pulling around the buttoning point and thought maybe something needed to be let out just a little.
Think he doesn't have the anchor button done up.
That pulling on the button is generally first a balance issue and second most common cause is a snug waist.
Thanks very much to both of you on feedback. @Despos is right, the anchor button was undone, and I think the waist could be let out by 1" for better drape. Plus, the fabric is a lightweight wool-silk-linen that seems to emphasize even minor pulling. Think I'm OK with the length and will stick with it. Cheers!
 

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