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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Despos

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Hello, guys! You’ve been of great help on other occasions, pointing out things I didn’t know. I want to show you this ongoing mtm project at a local tailor to know your opinion.
Thanks!
Bad picture angles make it hard to diagnose. In these shots everything about this jacket could be improved. Balance is off, wrinkly back, full blades, sleeves too long, sleeve pitch is off, jacket length too short, button position too high, patch pockets out of proportion to the size of the fronts.
 
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Angel91

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I see. I’ll try to get some better pictures. Thank you very much, I’ll refer to the tailor what you said to see if it can be fixed.
 

Rbpp

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Trouser doesn't look snug so hard to advise you. Letting out the crotch will help more than letting out the seat. Usually not much outlet to work with. What you don't like about these tells me you should look elsewhere for a different cut. There isn't enough outlet in the leg to make it wider.
Thanks for those advices.
Could you tell me what you mean by "letting out the crotch", I'm not sure I understand which seam we are talking about. Actually, there is a bit of outlet in the leg, something like 4cm for the inseam and 2 cm for the outseam.
But I agree that sending them back seems to be the best thing to do.
 

Despos

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Thanks for those advices.
Could you tell me what you mean by "letting out the crotch", I'm not sure I understand which seam we are talking about. Actually, there is a bit of outlet in the leg, something like 4cm for the inseam and 2 cm for the outseam.
But I agree that sending them back seems to be the best thing to do.
Letting out the crotch is opening the seam at the bottom of the seat where the four panels meet. Another way to describe this is the top of the inseam.
Open the leg on the inseam to the knee and let out the outlet on the back parts. There is no outlet on the front panels. This makes the seat feel looser. Better than letting out the seat seam and the seat looking baggy or sloppy.
Haven't seen 4cm to let out on the inseam except rare custom made trousers. This could happen if the trousers were taken in and the outlets not trimmed away. To let out 2cm on the outseam you need 4cm of cloth because you need 2cm for the two seams.
 

Canadianguy

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Hi everybody, since I can’t actually visit my tailor right now I was wondering if I could get some get some expert advice here.
6CAC6A88-D906-4B9B-9AFE-32F5582737A7.jpeg

I just received this MTM jacket from Proper Cloth and am pretty happy with it, however, the back is a little tight and restrictive when I reach forward at all with my arms. Here is my question:

Can the upper back be let out slightly to give more fabric under the shoulder blades if the fabric is there? I know that proper cloth includes some allowances in the seems.

Thanks appreciate any feedback.
 

Rbpp

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Letting out the crotch is opening the seam at the bottom of the seat where the four panels meet. Another way to describe this is the top of the inseam.
Open the leg on the inseam to the knee and let out the outlet on the back parts. There is no outlet on the front panels. This makes the seat feel looser. Better than letting out the seat seam and the seat looking baggy or sloppy.
Haven't seen 4cm to let out on the inseam except rare custom made trousers. This could happen if the trousers were taken in and the outlets not trimmed away. To let out 2cm on the outseam you need 4cm of cloth because you need 2cm for the two seams.
then, given that there is 4 cm of cloth at the top of the inseam (by default on Cavour trousers, as far as I know), do you think that letting out the crotch is a viable option to fix the tightness I mentioned ?
 

Despos

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then, given that there is 4 cm of cloth at the top of the inseam (by default on Cavour trousers, as far as I know), do you think that letting out the crotch is a viable option to fix the tightness I mentioned ?
Yes, that is what I would try. If they fit just a bit close now, it will help. This area stretches from wear so that will help too.
I don't know how sensitive you are or how much ease you require to feel comfortable.
 

Despos

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Hi everybody, since I can’t actually visit my tailor right now I was wondering if I could get some get some expert advice here.
View attachment 1602414
I just received this MTM jacket from Proper Cloth and am pretty happy with it, however, the back is a little tight and restrictive when I reach forward at all with my arms. Here is my question:

Can the upper back be let out slightly to give more fabric under the shoulder blades if the fabric is there? I know that proper cloth includes some allowances in the seems.

Thanks appreciate any feedback.
It's not tight across the back, probably something else is making it feel restrictive.
 

Rbpp

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Yes, that is what I would try. If they fit just a bit close now, it will help. This area stretches from wear so that will help too.
I don't know how sensitive you are or how much ease you require to feel comfortable.
Great, thank you for all these answers, that is very kind of you!
 

Despos

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Ok interesting, thanks for your insight!
@Canadianguy

ask someone to pinch the center of both shoulders; then lift the jacket straight up 1/2" to 1".
See if you feel a difference when you move your arms. Post the result.

Don't exaggerate your movement like you are hugging something.
Have seen guys swing their arms in ways you would rarely, if ever, do in real life.
 

Canadianguy

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@Canadianguy

ask someone to pinch the center of both shoulders; then lift the jacket straight up 1/2" to 1".
See if you feel a difference when you move your arms. Post the result.

Don't exaggerate your movement like you are hugging something.
Have seen guys swing their arms in ways you would rarely, if ever, do in real life.
Ok, I gave this a try despite knowing my wife would be rolling her eyes when I asked her haha and it did seem to make movement in the arms easier. Does that mean it’s an armhole issue? Could this be alleviated by letting the chest out slightly under the armholes? Excuse my ignorance.
 

Despos

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Ok, I gave this a try despite knowing my wife would be rolling her eyes when I asked her haha and it did seem to make movement in the arms easier. Does that mean it’s an armhole issue? Could this be alleviated by letting the chest out slightly under the armholes? Excuse my ignorance.
Can't tell you what to do based off one picture of the back. If you feel your movement is restricted it doesn't always mean the jacket is snug or tight. Can also be caused when a jacket is too big. If the jacket fits better when you raise the jacket it shows the armhole is not positioned or sized correctly for your body type. When you cross your arms across your chest, do you feel the armhole of the jacket binding and pressure on the front of your arms?
There isn't an efficient or easy way to make these armholes higher/smaller. Get a second opinion from a tailor that can see the jacket on you. Maybe he has a remedy. You can try letting it out but it may be a waste of time and money if the armholes are too deep.
 

Canadianguy

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Can't tell you what to do based off one picture of the back. If you feel your movement is restricted it doesn't always mean the jacket is snug or tight. Can also be caused when a jacket is too big. If the jacket fits better when you raise the jacket it shows the armhole is not positioned or sized correctly for your body type. When you cross your arms across your chest, do you feel the armhole of the jacket binding and pressure on the front of your arms?
There isn't an efficient or easy way to make these armholes higher/smaller. Get a second opinion from a tailor that can see the jacket on you. Maybe he has a remedy. You can try letting it out but it may be a waste of time and money if the armholes are too deep.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom Despos. I’ll let you know how it turns out when I’m able to visit my local tailor.
 

TheChihuahua

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What is the tailoring term for this bunching by the shoulder blades?
What is the cause for too much material in the back like this?
How difficult a fix is this?

thank you in advance.
D8512608-CACA-4CDF-BADE-84AD1A2353E9.jpeg
 

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