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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Keith Taylor

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Losing 17 pounds would require reducing about 2 inches, maybe more, and taking in the crotch. Would you explain how you altered them to this point? Not related to why they slide down but would be good to know.
Nothing too dramatic to this pair as I bought them a couple of months ago when I was maybe 5lbs or so heavier than I am now, so they haven’t had the same major surgery I had to give my fat guy clothes. I took in the waist by around half an inch, and then slightly slimmed the leg at the inseam and outseam, starting just beneath the crotch and the base of the pockets, respectively.
 

Despos

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Nothing too dramatic to this pair as I bought them a couple of months ago when I was maybe 5lbs or so heavier than I am now, so they haven’t had the same major surgery I had to give my fat guy clothes. I took in the waist by around half an inch, and then slightly slimmed the leg at the inseam and outseam, starting just beneath the crotch and the base of the pockets, respectively.
Ok that squares with what I see. If you had reduced for a 17 lb loss the side seams would be further to the back and the front panels would still be big in comparison. The seam and proportions threw me off. Can see you took in on the side seam though. The creases are pulling/curving to the sides from the front view instead of falling straight. This confused me too.

Main cause of trousers sliding down is a short rise. Trousers that fit lower on the waist are very difficult to keep on the waist. Maybe you could compare this pair with trousers that stay up and don't slide down and see the difference. Maybe lay one on top the other.

The thigh looks like it's tapered too much. A bit snug at the bottom of the pocket which is a sizing issue and snug on the calf. The diagonal pull is between those two points. Visualize letting out below the pocket and you will see how the diagonal pull goes away as it moves towards the back crease.
You can see it's a bit sloppy above the bottom of the front pockets. That's from starting below the pocket and not at the top of outseam.

Shortening the back is done by removing the waistband and lowering at the back. Nothing is done at the crotch to lift the back. It's really a complicated alteration to do right. Lowering at the top of the back as an alteration is not the same thing you would do to the pattern to correct the pattern for this adjustment. More to it than just lowering the back but don't want to get technical.

Will be easier to make the cuffs if you taper the leg to accommodate the cuff. Cuff is more narrow than the leg and causes the bunching.
 
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Keith Taylor

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Think you said these are cotton.
Nah, they’re wool. Super 170s with a very soft, flannely hand.

You can see it's a bit sloppy above the bottom of the front pockets. That's from starting below the pocket and not at the top of outseam.
That makes a lot of sense. With my fat guy pants I have no choice but to start at the top of the outseam as there’s just too much that needs to be taken in to do it any other way, but I don’t like the resultant move of the side seams toward the rear. It feels like I’m screwing around too much with the original pattern by reducing only the rear panel, so starting below the pockets and accepting a little sloppiness feels like an acceptable trade off for me.

Will be easier to make the cuffs if you taper the leg to accommodate the cuff. Cuff is more narrow than the leg and causes the bunching.
Absolutely. This was my first attempt at adding cuffs (the pants were without when I bought them), so it was a bit slapdash. There’s also some puckering in the stitching hidden by the cuff as I used these pants to get to grips with my new sewing machine, so they’ll definitely need remaking.

So, as you say the rise is such that they just don’t want to stay on the waist. Setting aside the possibility of lengthening the rise (I’m not sure there’s enough material to allow it) I guess that leaves me with the option of either taking in the waist in an attempt to convince them to stick there a little better - not ideal as the waist is incredibly comfortable as it is now - or hemming them shorter so the hem sits correctly when the waistband rests in its natural position lower on my hips. I could probably live with that.
 

Despos

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It is possible to deepen the rise. start at the front fork below the zipper and mark a deeper line following the same curve shape, across to the point the back seat begins to curve upwards. Maximum you can do is 1/2". It may help. Don't cut the extra cloth away until you are sure there is a benefit. Be sure to cut away the cloth if the adjustment helps. You don't want a big outlet.
 

Despos

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or hemming them shorter
after marking the cuffs, measure across the leg to know the width at the top fold of the cuff. Measure the leg width where the top of the cuff will hit when pressed in place. That is the point you want to reduce and make the same as or a touch more narrow than the circumference of the cuff. Reduce on both the inseam and outseam so the crease stays centered.
 

Keith Taylor

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Visualize letting out below the pocket and you will see how the diagonal pull goes away as it moves towards the back crease.
Oh, I completely missed this passage earlier. That makes perfect sense to me, and it seems blindingly obvious now you point it out. Despos, you are the bestest teacher :)
 

TheChihuahua

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Suit construction question:


I know what the definition of canvas, half canvas and fused suits are, and I have heard plenty about the pinch test.
but I’m always afraid to do the pinch test because if a suit is fused, won’t the pinch test potentially pull/Unglue the outerlayer from the lining?

so today I took two suits that are too big and haven’t been worn in a while, was going to toss them, instead I cut them open.

first one is a low price lauren suit, Macy’s type purchase. I actually liked the suit a lot, found it wore well and was super comfortable.
but I always assumed it was a fused suit? Aren’t all those lauren and hifiger and boss suits at Macy’s fused? People say you can’t touch full canvas for under a grand or half canvas for <$600, but this is super entry level Macy’s stuff?

it appears there is a half a canvas that goes just down to the button holes.

it did not appear to be glued to the front layer of fabric. There was a little mit of stitching that ran vertically down, but it didn’t feel like any glue or pulling or anything like that?

maybe I am just struggling to identify the characteristics of the lining in a fused or canvassed sense?

32DCEA3E-2158-46A8-8C27-A9F0E17DDCEB.jpeg
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46BF9E24-C88A-4336-8F0B-F1B4FFF630B6.jpeg
 

TheChihuahua

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So the other one I cut up:
The next one is a brooks brothers factory outlet 346. Probably have had this for 10+ years and it’s taken a beating and always held up well.
I always assumed it was a half canvas

it appears to have the floating middle lining, it was not glued to the front material, just some very light vertical stitching.

2C2FB1B8-D369-4266-99EC-D1D9048069CA.jpeg
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TheChihuahua

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I appreciate the info from breakaway in the other thread. Sorry for the duplication.
 

Rbpp

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Alteration question :
I've bought a fresco suit from Cavour and while the jacket fits me well, the trousers are a bit so-so. My main point of concern is the lack of room in the rear area (the oval in the picture, sorry, not very elegant). It's a bit tight, especially when I try to lift my legs. So my question is : can an alteration tailor alleviate this problem ? As with other RTW trousers, there is quite a lot of spare fabric near the waistband, but not that much near the crotch. Can the spare fabric of the out-seam be used to give me more room, or is it going to ruin the balance of the trousers ?
thanks in advance !
I can still return the suit and get a sportcoat instead. If I keep them, I plan to widen the legs, they are too slim as they are now.
Sans titre.png
Sans titre 2.png
 

BPL Esq

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Hello, guys! You’ve been of great help on other occasions, pointing out things I didn’t know. I want to show you this ongoing mtm project at a local tailor to know your opinion.
Thanks!
I'm not a tailor, but possible changes that jumped to mind for me are shortening the sleeves slightly, lengthening the jacket, lowering the buttoning point, and going with more substantial lapels. If you like the jacket 'as is' and just want fit advice, you can ignore this. Good luck with the remainder of the process.
 

Despos

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Alteration question :
I've bought a fresco suit from Cavour and while the jacket fits me well, the trousers are a bit so-so. My main point of concern is the lack of room in the rear area (the oval in the picture, sorry, not very elegant). It's a bit tight, especially when I try to lift my legs. So my question is : can an alteration tailor alleviate this problem ? As with other RTW trousers, there is quite a lot of spare fabric near the waistband, but not that much near the crotch. Can the spare fabric of the out-seam be used to give me more room, or is it going to ruin the balance of the trousers ?
thanks in advance !
I can still return the suit and get a sportcoat instead. If I keep them, I plan to widen the legs, they are too slim as they are now.
View attachment 1601474View attachment 1601475
Trouser doesn't look snug so hard to advise you. Letting out the crotch will help more than letting out the seat. Usually not much outlet to work with. What you don't like about these tells me you should look elsewhere for a different cut. There isn't enough outlet in the leg to make it wider.
 

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