The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

Here is the final result from Collaro.
I am not 100% satisfied.
The right leg seems to be bigger than the left one. Also I have a little too much room at the back of both thighs.
The waist needs to be smaller as well,right now I have to tighten the straps as much as I can.
Even though i cannot see it myself in these pictures, but they need some tightening between the upper thigh (it might also be the excess fabric from the back-upper-thigh).

I am planning to take these to a tailor in order to make some minor adjustments.
I do like the comfortability and the curdoroy.

As for future orders from collaro: what would you suggest I tell them to do differently on my next pair?

I do not think these look bad, but the right leg issue is nagging me and the overall result could be a little better.

Any feedback and/or alteration suggestions for these trousers or the next pair are appreciated

The corduroy is the reason for most of the issues. It’s a very difficult cloth to tailor. It doesn’t drape, give, shrink or stretch. You can’t do any shaping with an iron. Some tailors cut them a bit looser because of those issues with the cloth. You are better off with the loose fit because they can be taken in and will be fine but you could not let them out without the old seams showing. Wouldn’t be too critical of this pair. I almost commented about using corduroy when you mentioned it with the previous trouser you posted

 

[BB_Adept]

So you would stay with the same measurements for the next order?
I did not know that about curdoroy.
The next pairs i am planning to have made are a pair of linen and a pair of tweed pants.

 

[Despos]

So you would stay with the same measurements for the next order?
I did not know that about curdoroy.
The next pairs i am planning to have made are a pair of linen and a pair of tweed pants.

They will all look and drape differently because of the diversity and character of each cloth.
Don’t change any measurements. Send them pictures of their work and let them do their thing. Would be a mistake to reduce the thigh area, both comfort wise and visually.
This corduroy pair is just as good as the previous trouser, but the cloth doesn’t express it the same way.

 

[BB_Adept]

Okay thanks .
They are definitely wearable (right? ).

Last question: Would you recommend taking the curdoroy pair to the tailor or not?

 

[Despos]

Okay thanks .
They are definitely wearable (right? ).

Last question: Would you recommend taking the curdoroy pair to the tailor or not?

If you want the waist to fit closer, yes, have them taken in. Would not alter anything else based on these pictures.

 

[Camillo]

@BB_Adept
Also, I think you didn't press them properly (or rather not at all) so it's even harder to discuss them fit-wise. They weren't cut like chinos, but like trousers with a crease. There has to be enough room behind the thighs if you want to achieve a good drape and clean crease.

I missed the information that you are planning to order corduroy trousers. Otherwise, I would also advise against improving the cut on such fabric. You should order the next pair of trousers made of wool, IMO.

 

[BB_Adept]

I did not press them at all so far. Straight out of the package. Could you explain the curdoroy thing again?

My next pairs will be flannel and linen. Do these fabrics need me to be extra careful with something as well?

 

[Despos]

I did not press them at all so far. Straight out of the package. Could you explain the curdoroy thing again?

My next pairs will be flannel and linen. Do these fabrics need me to be extra careful with something as well?

Corduroy is not supple like wool. It doesn’t drape like wool. The cloth doesn’t stretch or give. You have to press very carefully with little to no pressure on the nap so you don’t crush the nap. Press in one direction, with the nap or you could scar the cloth. It’s a bit fragile in that way.

flannel and linen display different characteristics with the weight you choose. The lighter weight in both cloths are flimsy. Some like this and others don’t.
Mid weights have more body.
Heavy flannels are dense. Heavy linens can be stiff.
The differences project a different visual of the fit.
Woollen flannel is different than worsted flannel. Tends to not hold a crease as long and the nap wears thin.

 

[BB_Adept]

So much brilliant information!
What I liked about these trousers was the process of ordering and creating a pair. Kind of like a sandbox experience.

I do not quite understand the part about the pressing. Actually I do not understand what you mean at all. What is pressing and why even do that?

 

[Camillo]

Pressing = using an iron to press the fabric without moving it.

 

[Angel91]

Hello guys! I’ve been struggling for a while to find a sports coat that fits me, because I have wide shoulders and I’m relatively short. I’ve realized that my best rtw options are those that offer a short version. I’ve found this one from gagliardi, which I believed had non functional cuffs, but it turned out they’re functional.
What do you guys think about the fit of this one? I think the waist needs to be let out for sure. And the sleeves don’t seem too long. You think taking a couple of cm without altering it from the shoulder would be enough?

thanks a lot!!

 

[endless.carousel]

Hello! I just took one of my jackets for a rather simple sleeves shortening and adding hand-sewn working buttonholes. The tailor did the job, but he was confused and used different thread color on one side. I just figured it out just now...

1. The question is whether it is a simple fix.
2. I would like to know if it is possible to have buttonholes restitched to the right color even though the holes were already cut and stitched?
3. If that is possible, then it is theoretically possible to restitch the lapel buttonhole? I would like some of my jackets to have the regular lapel buttonhole restitched to a milanese buttonhole, hence the question.

Thank you!

 

[Despos]

Hello guys! I’ve been struggling for a while to find a sports coat that fits me, because I have wide shoulders and I’m relatively short. I’ve realized that my best rtw options are those that offer a short version. I’ve found this one from gagliardi, which I believed had non functional cuffs, but it turned out they’re functional.
What do you guys think about the fit of this one? I think the waist needs to be let out for sure. And the sleeves don’t seem too long. You think taking a couple of cm without altering it from the shoulder would be enough?

thanks a lot!!

Before you decide to keep this jacket, find out of there is enough cloth in the side and center back seams to let out. You need at least 2" around the waist and it's doubtful the outlets have enough to let out.
The sleeves are very long. The left sleeve needs to be shortened at least 1.5" maybe more.
Jacket sleeve should rest on the notch on you wrist at the thumb. Let your arm hang naturally and make a fist. Bend your thumb up like you are hitchhiking. Creates an L shape. the sleeve should rest on your thumb with your hand in this position.
Shortening from the top is complicated and not a normal alteration. Don't keep the jacket if you can't find someone you trust will do the work properly.

 

[Despos]

Hello! I just took one of my jackets for a rather simple sleeves shortening and adding hand-sewn working buttonholes. The tailor did the job, but he was confused and used different thread color on one side. I just figured it out just now...

1. The question is whether it is a simple fix.
2. I would like to know if it is possible to have buttonholes restitched to the right color even though the holes were already cut and stitched?
3. If that is possible, then it is theoretically possible to restitch the lapel buttonhole? I would like some of my jackets to have the regular lapel buttonhole restitched to a milanese buttonhole, hence the question.

Thank you!

Are the front buttonholes made by hand or machine?
It's a problem to add buttonholes to a jacket and match the existing buttonhole twist but if the tailor made buttonholes and used two different colors of thread, that's just weird.
The buttonholes can be undone but it has to be done carefully.
Does this tailor know how to make a Milanese buttonhole?

 

[endless.carousel]

Are the front buttonholes made by hand or machine?
It's a problem to add buttonholes to a jacket and match the existing buttonhole twist but if the tailor made buttonholes and used two different colors of thread, that's just weird.
The buttonholes can be undone but it has to be done carefully.
Does this tailor know how to make a Milanese buttonhole?

The front buttonholes are made by hand. The front buttonholes and right sleeve's buttonholes are of the same color. Only the right that has a slightly off color. This tailor doesn't know how to make a Milanese buttonhole, but I will take the jacket to another tailor who knows how to do so.