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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

usctrojans31

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I bought it when Barneys was still a thing. I've seen it get pretty low on The Rake Values. Yoox also sometimes gets pieces for very little money, but they are hit and miss.

I'm not sure how much of a focus RTW is going to be for Cifonelli moving forward. John Vizzone is no longer there, and I have no idea who makes it now. I bought it when Sartoria Partenopea was still in business and making the Cifonelli stuff. The first "Cifonelli" ready to wear was just relabeled Caruso that had nothing to do with the actual house cut. Then they moved to Partenopea, which was making le cigarette. The current RTW seems less aggressive than Cifonelli bespoke but much more in line with the house cut than its RTW years ago.

Is your experience with Gieves RTW the made in Italy or with the lower-tier stuff? Before I moved to bespoke, I bought some Gieves RTW stuff on Yoox. Had no idea there were two lines. I returned it an hour after receiving.
 

Aly.B

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HIGHLY recommend exchanging this. Almost every cut in Purple Label — especially ones adapted from the former Black Label — are notoriously tough to fit for most people. Essentially, unless you're built like John Vizzone, the former RL creative director, i.e. tall, slim and straight from shoulder to waist, it will likely result in a similar outcome to your fit. If you search on here for RLBL shoulder divots, you'll likely see a bunch of posts from ~2014 showing similar challenges to the one you're experiencing. People bought it because it helped them look a bit broader and more muscular than they were. To my eye, it looks like you're fairly broad shouldered, reasonable drop and thicker legs.

Based on you selecting that suit, I'm going to assume that you're after a more structured look rather than something softer. Recommend trying Canali, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton and Gieves & Hawkes.

FYI, I own one Gregory jacket. I'm 6'4" 175 and I wear a 40L. It is one of only two items in my closet that I regret buying. It is essentially now an expensive travel jacket. But such is any one's sartorial journey.

Since you're starting out, not sure if you have a good alterations tailor. Sam Wazin in NYC is terrific. Almost every NYC-based member uses him. Depending where in Jersey you are, might be worth a trip into the city.
Agreed! The suit is already on its way back and my search is back on again. Lol

Yes, I prefer structured suits instead of soft construction ones. It’s a shame this RLPL didn’t work out. I wonder if people who design them expect any real humans with normal measurements to wear these suits. It’s ridiculous how unrealistic the measurements of these suits are!

Did try on a Canali jacket at my nearest Nordstrom. Size 52 fit good around the chest but didn’t fit my broad shoulders. I’m afraid rest of the brands you suggested are currently out of my budget.

Would you or someone else happen to know any good tailors in NJ area? I would prefer to have someone local where I could go to get my clothes fitted. Thank you.
 

dukeaw

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I just got a new suit from a local tailor I havent tried before. He makes it himself. I have a usual guy I go to but wanted to try someone different.

These pictures are after wearing the suit all day, including while driving, so it may not be perfectly pressed.

Some thoughts for both future orders and this order:
-Lapel gorge could be maybe an inch lower
-collar could be a bit higher. I'm not sure I like how much shirt collar shows in back
-I asked for a barchetta pocket... he clearly didnt understand and did a straight slant pocket
-There is a bit of drape in chest. Still getting used to it. Not sure how it suits my body shape...
-Is the waist a little tight? This may be why it isnt draping smoothly in the back. I may have gained a little weight recently due to cold weather inactivity... unless its just that it needs to be pressed
-The sleeve doesnt seem to be falling perfectly in the tricep area...
-Trouser thighs may be too big which is why they collapse in back. I asked for room since I have larger thighs but he may have given too much room

Fabric is a Holland and Sherry super 120. Not Sloane Square, but also not sure what the book was as it didnt have a name on it.

The tailor will do further alterations when I come back after wearing for a week or two

Any other thoughts or recommendations?
 

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Aly.B

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Hello members,

After having an unsuccessful rather disappointing experience with RLPL Gregory, following other members’ suggestion, I sent that one back. Meanwhile, some members suggested and many others speak very highly of Spier and Mackay’s quality and value for the money. So, I grabbed this one out of their sale offerings. It’s a Guabello super 120’s suit. I do wish the fabric had more weight to it.

Having had no experience with S&M before, I simply got the size I got in RLPL Gregory - 42L. I think I usually fall in the Regular length category (5’1” with fairly long arms) but considering the fact that RLPL jackets are short, I went with a Long jacket. Now seeing this S&M jacket’s length, I think I should have gone with a Regular length.

Cutting it short, I would really appreciate if some of you could suggest / recommend what needs to be altered or fixed in this suit. The sleeves and pants are unaltered/unfinished. I just folded the pants up so the extra wrinkles don’t mess with the fall too much and they look somewhat in shape.

This suit is a contemporary fit in size 42L. With a 42 jacket, I requested S&M to send me size 34 trousers instead of 36 that typically come with their 42 suits since I thought 36 would be way too big.

I would be absolutely grateful for your advice, comments, suggestions, and recommendations. Thank you very much.
F4C0913E-D6CC-46A2-8AC1-05BC85EC85D7.jpeg
 

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Despos

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Hello members,

After having an unsuccessful rather disappointing experience with RLPL Gregory, following other members’ suggestion, I sent that one back. Meanwhile, some members suggested and many others speak very highly of Spier and Mackay’s quality and value for the money. So, I grabbed this one out of their sale offerings. It’s a Guabello super 120’s suit. I do wish the fabric had more weight to it.

Having had no experience with S&M before, I simply got the size I got in RLPL Gregory - 42L. I think I usually fall in the Regular length category (5’1” with fairly long arms) but considering the fact that RLPL jackets are short, I went with a Long jacket. Now seeing this S&M jacket’s length, I think I should have gone with a Regular length.

Cutting it short, I would really appreciate if some of you could suggest / recommend what needs to be altered or fixed in this suit. The sleeves and pants are unaltered/unfinished. I just folded the pants up so the extra wrinkles don’t mess with the fall too much and they look somewhat in shape.

This suit is a contemporary fit in size 42L. With a 42 jacket, I requested S&M to send me size 34 trousers instead of 36 that typically come with their 42 suits since I thought 36 would be way too big.

I would be absolutely grateful for your advice, comments, suggestions, and recommendations. Thank you very much.
View attachment 1567769
You will have to compromise with RTW. The fitting issues can’t be altered without reconstructing the suit.
See the folds of cloth on your sides below the armholes in the first picture? This is from the jacket not sitting on your shoulders properly. You have sloping shoulders and the jacket is collapsing on the sides because of no support from your shoulders.
Jackets are cut for normal posture. You stand with erect posture and that’s why the back falls on your hips and wrinkles like this. The correction is to make the front panels longer and the back shorter. It’s balancing the front and back to accommodate your posture.
The jacket is too long, a regular would be better.
Think it would have been worth getting the 36” waist and taking in the waist so you have more room around the hips. This trouser is a bit snug across the front and on the seat.
Ideal would be a trouser leg that would drape cleanly and not conform to or show the shape of your calves and leg.
Slightly higher rise would benefit you.
 

Despos

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I just got a new suit from a local tailor I havent tried before. He makes it himself. I have a usual guy I go to but wanted to try someone different.

These pictures are after wearing the suit all day, including while driving, so it may not be perfectly pressed.

Some thoughts for both future orders and this order:
-Lapel gorge could be maybe an inch lower
-collar could be a bit higher. I'm not sure I like how much shirt collar shows in back
-I asked for a barchetta pocket... he clearly didnt understand and did a straight slant pocket
-There is a bit of drape in chest. Still getting used to it. Not sure how it suits my body shape...
-Is the waist a little tight? This may be why it isnt draping smoothly in the back. I may have gained a little weight recently due to cold weather inactivity... unless its just that it needs to be pressed
-The sleeve doesnt seem to be falling perfectly in the tricep area...
-Trouser thighs may be too big which is why they collapse in back. I asked for room since I have larger thighs but he may have given too much room

Fabric is a Holland and Sherry super 120. Not Sloane Square, but also not sure what the book was as it didnt have a name on it.

The tailor will do further alterations when I come back after wearing for a week or two

Any other thoughts or recommendations?
Suits not too bad. Bring up these issues when you go back and review the fit.
 

Aly.B

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You will have to compromise with RTW. The fitting issues can’t be altered without reconstructing the suit.
See the folds of cloth on your sides below the armholes in the first picture? This is from the jacket not sitting on your shoulders properly. You have sloping shoulders and the jacket is collapsing on the sides because of no support from your shoulders.
Jackets are cut for normal posture. You stand with erect posture and that’s why the back falls on your hips and wrinkles like this. The correction is to make the front panels longer and the back shorter. It’s balancing the front and back to accommodate your posture.
The jacket is too long, a regular would be better.
Think it would have been worth getting the 36” waist and taking in the waist so you have more room around the hips. This trouser is a bit snug across the front and on the seat.
Ideal would be a trouser leg that would drape cleanly and not conform to or show the shape of your calves and leg.
Slightly higher rise would benefit you.
Thank you for your input.

You think going with a slim fit instead of cont. would improve that issue around the chest and armholes? I thought it is probably because the jacket might be too big on me around the chest.

About the waist of the trousers getting taken in, you think it’s better to let this one out from hips below or go with a 36 and have the waist taken in?
 

Despos

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No, slim fit won’t change or improve that area. Put a folded wash cloth or a sponge on your shoulder under the jacket. You will see an improvement of the wrinkles under your arms. The jacket needs to be filled in and lifted at the ends of your shoulder. There is a gap/space between your shoulder and the slope of the jacket shoulder.
The horizontal wrinkles and pulling across the front of the trouser is because the trouser is tight around your hips. Letting out can only be done at the center back seam and it won’t help the front area enough. The 36 waist is better, usually it’s better to fit the largest part, your hips, and reduce the waist. The pockets are flaring out on the 34 waist. Going up a size will help make the pockets lay better
 

Aly.B

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No, slim fit won’t change or improve that area. Put a folded wash cloth or a sponge on your shoulder under the jacket. You will see an improvement of the wrinkles under your arms. The jacket needs to be filled in and lifted at the ends of your shoulder. There is a gap/space between your shoulder and the slope of the jacket shoulder.
The horizontal wrinkles and pulling across the front of the trouser is because the trouser is tight around your hips. Letting out can only be done at the center back seam and it won’t help the front area enough. The 36 waist is better, usually it’s better to fit the largest part, your hips, and reduce the waist. The pockets are flaring out on the 34 waist. Going up a size will help make the pockets lay better
Keeping the shape of my shoulders in mind, could you suggest some RTW brands that would fit me better than this one? Honestly, going MTM or bespoke at this time is out of my budget. That is why, I want to get something OTR that would fit me good with some alterations.
 

Despos

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Keeping the shape of my shoulders in mind, could you suggest some RTW brands that would fit me better than this one? Honestly, going MTM or bespoke at this time is out of my budget. That is why, I want to get something OTR that would fit me good with some alterations.
I don’t see many RTW Garments and don’t know which brands would be better for you. Maybe someone with similar fitting issues will comment. The shoulder issue is helped by adding shoulder pads.
 

Aly.B

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I don’t see many RTW Garments and don’t know which brands would be better for you. Maybe someone with similar fitting issues will comment. The shoulder issue is helped by adding shoulder pads.
Is adding shoulder pads an easy to perform (and cost effective) alteration or is it something that could potentially damaging the structure of the jacket if not done with extreme care?
 

BB_Adept

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Here is the final result from Collaro.
I am not 100% satisfied.
The right leg seems to be bigger than the left one. Also I have a little too much room at the back of both thighs.
The waist needs to be smaller as well,right now I have to tighten the straps as much as I can.
Even though i cannot see it myself in these pictures, but they need some tightening between the upper thigh (it might also be the excess fabric from the back-upper-thigh).

I am planning to take these to a tailor in order to make some minor adjustments.
I do like the comfortability and the curdoroy.

As for future orders from collaro: what would you suggest I tell them to do differently on my next pair?

I do not think these look bad, but the right leg issue is nagging me and the overall result could be a little better.

Any feedback and/or alteration suggestions for these trousers or the next pair are appreciated :)
 

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Despos

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Is adding shoulder pads an easy to perform (and cost effective) alteration or is it something that could potentially damaging the structure of the jacket if not done with extreme care?
Easy but has to be executed well. Does not damage anything
 
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