The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[alfredt]

These are my trial pants from Collaro. I am fairly happy with the result and i will definitely wear these trousers. Any suggestions on alterations? The final pair is going to be in midweight curdoroy.
Imho the hem could cover a bit less of the shoes and i am not 100% sure they fit perfectly around my butt.

• I disagree on the ankle opening, any slimmer and they will start to look off.
• This is personal preference but they break more than I would like so they could be a touch shorter.
• The fit issues around the butt are the bane of my existence. Read this article for the cause and alteration needed: https://dieworkwear.com/2019/10/11/you-might-suffer-from-floppy-butt/

 

[Boggis]

These are my trial pants from Collaro. I am fairly happy with the result and i will definitely wear these trousers. Any suggestions on alterations? The final pair is going to be in midweight curdoroy.
Imho the hem could cover a bit less of the shoes and i am not 100% sure they fit perfectly around my butt.

I'm not a tailor, so these are layman observations in case they help.

They could probably benefit from pressing or hanging for a while in order to be able to determine which wrinkles are due to tension and which are simply due to them having been sent folded.

I agree with the last poster on the length, the break appears a bit too strong so the legs might be a tad long.

I think stylistically though if you preferred a narrower cuff I dont think it would throw off the leg to have it adjusted.

Have you pulled the side adjusters tighter at all? It looks a little like they've been pulled tighter on the left side than the right, there's a bit of flaring on the left butt pocket and the left side pocket. If you've needed to pull the adjusters tight to get them to sit right it's probably a sign the waist is a little too big.

I'd agree that the fit about the butt is off but I've no idea why, certainly that article on floppy butt looks like a good place to start!

 

[BB_Adept]

Hey
Thank you for the replies.

Collaro and i agreed on shortening both the length and the hem a little bit.
They suggested loosing the seat a little bit and to deepen the rise (whatever that second part means) to give me a cleaner drape. I thought this might work and agreed. Also they suggested giving me a bit more room around the thigh and hip for the pleats to fall more cleanly, relying on their superior expertise in tailoring i also agreed with this.
Unsure what this will look like in the final product. I listened to the tailor's suggestions as i have no idea what alterations will actually look like in the end.

As for the second thing: I do not think my butt is floppy, its actually quite big and round. This i do not say to feel better, but my glutes are quite strong which is due to imperfect form when squatting weights. I would prefer to have smaller glutes in order to develop bigger thighs, but that is quite difficult.

 

[alfredt]

Hey
Thank you for the replies.

Collaro and i agreed on shortening both the length and the hem a little bit.
They suggested loosing the seat a little bit and to deepen the rise (whatever that second part means) to give me a cleaner drape. I thought this might work and agreed. Also they suggested giving me a bit more room around the thigh and hip for the pleats to fall more cleanly, relying on their superior expertise in tailoring i also agreed with this.
Unsure what this will look like in the final product. I listened to the tailor's suggestions as i have no idea what alterations will actually look like in the end.

As for the second thing: I do not think my butt is floppy, its actually quite big and round. This i do not say to feel better, but my glutes are quite strong which is due to imperfect form when squatting weights. I would prefer to have smaller glutes in order to develop bigger thighs, but that is quite difficult.

Sounds good! Please post the final pair as well, I'm interested to see how they turn out.

The floppy butt issue doesn't have to do with the size of your butt but more with how far your pelvic is tilted forward from what I understand. From the side view I can see that while your butt is prominent there is some excess fabric just below it. If you imagine lifting the trousers by ~2cm from the widest point of your butt that would make the trousers fall much cleaner in the back. I imagine that is what Collaro mean with the loosening of the seat and deepening of the rise.

 

[BB_Adept]

I actually rethought the article whilst lying in bed and i figured that i mistook "floppy" with "saggy", my mistake therefore.
However, my posture is not that bad, it is better than most peoples. Of course i can still work on my posture though. Looking forward to the final pair.
Already i am very pleased with the communication and the entire ordering process, it was fun creating a pair of pants together.

 

[Boggis]

The posture thing is interesting to me in relation to the "floppy butt" article. The "male pornstar" position referred to in the article (anterior pelvic tilt?) should result in a bigger arse or "prominent seat" to use the euphemistic vernacular. But the article implies that the floppy butt in the trousers is due to too much fabric on the arse, unless I'm misunderstanding.

I know from my own pants (both rtw & MTM) when I stand in the forward pelvic tilt posture they generally drape okay in the back, but when I stand "proper" with my pelvis neutral I get a big break between the seat and the thigh. It's almost like my pants have been cut for bad posture and standing correctly makes them look wrong.

 

[alfredt]

You're both making some fair points that are making me rethink why this happens. Based on the image below it is easy to see why it would be a problem if a pair of trousers is cut for somebody with anterior pelvic tilt but the wearer actually has good posture. This could well be exactly what is happening with BB_Adept's pair.

For me personally I believe I have more of a posterior pelvic tilt which causes the same fit issues even when trousers are cut for good posture.

 

[acapaca]

I thought the 'male Appreciation star pose' -- or, as Derek put it, 'hips forward and knees locked' -- would have been a counter-clockwise rotation in the graphic above, not a clockwise one. I'm confused.

 

[Boggis]

I thought the 'male Appreciation star pose' -- or, as Derek put it, 'hips forward and knees locked' -- would have been a counter-clockwise rotation in the graphic above, not a clockwise one. I'm confused.

Thinking about it again, you might be right. Certainly makes more sense in terms of causing the excess fabric ***********.

I think where I went a bit awry was that I believe anterior pelvic tilt is much more common than the opposite (posterior pelvic tilc). I think anterior pelvic tilt is exacerbated by sedentary lifestyle (office work). I'm unsure of the causes of male pornststar syndrome though.

 

[acapaca]

Thinking about it again, you might be right. Certainly makes more sense in terms of causing the excess fabric ***********.

I think where I went a bit awry was that I believe anterior pelvic tilt is much more common than the opposite (posterior pelvic tilc). I think anterior pelvic tilt is exacerbated by sedentary lifestyle (office work). I'm unsure of the causes of male pornststar syndrome though.

Yeah, I agree that it makes more sense when you think about the effects on the pants. I think I'm one with the posture that pushes the seat out toward the rear, if you will, which often gives me a nice drape in the back but then causes challenges in the front. I find a wider leg opening seems to help for that reason. But again, I may not understand it all correctly. That's why I'm this thread, to try to learn!

 

[alfredt]

I thought the 'male Appreciation star pose' -- or, as Derek put it, 'hips forward and knees locked' -- would have been a counter-clockwise rotation in the graphic above, not a clockwise one. I'm confused.

Yes exactly. The male Appreciation star pose or posterior pelvic tilt is what I 'suffer' from which is the exact opposite of the anterior pelvic tilt shown in the graphic. I have my knees locked when I'm standing straight with my pelvic forward. If a pair of trousers is cut for a good posture but you have posterior pelvic tilt like I do you get same bunching under the seat BB_Adept has in the images posted.

However, since anterior pelvic tilt is so common it might be true that Collaro uses a pattern that assumes some level of anterior pelvic tilt. If you then, like BB_Adept, have good posture you have the same type of fit issue somebody with posterior pelvic tilt might have with a pair cut for good posture.

 

[BB_Adept]

At first I was fairly satisfied with my trousers, now I am hearing the critique I am not sure anymore. Are these something I can wear or do they look entirely off?
They look better and more natural in reality.

 

[Stylewords]

At first I was fairly satisfied with my trousers, now I am hearing the critique I am not sure anymore. Are these something I can wear or do they look entirely off?
They look better and more natural in reality.

Don't get too caught up in Styleforum perfectionism. It's good to become aware of what works and what doesn't and get a better understanding of why, but sometimes it can go too far. They look pretty good as is.

 

[alfredt]

At first I was fairly satisfied with my trousers, now I am hearing the critique I am not sure anymore. Are these something I can wear or do they look entirely off?
They look better and more natural in reality.

They look good already IMO! You can wear these with confidence but the more scrutiny the better the second pair will be.

I’m actually considering getting a pair made by them given your results on the first fitting.

 

[Boggis]

At first I was fairly satisfied with my trousers, now I am hearing the critique I am not sure anymore. Are these something I can wear or do they look entirely off?
They look better and more natural in reality.

I agree with the other guys, they look good. Obviously they can be improved with some modifications, but perfection is an unreasonable goal.
It's a fair point as well taking into account how they look in reality, photos can often make wrinkles/ creases appear exaggerated.