• Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear and fashion.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,702
Reaction score
3,546
Hello All,

This is my first MTM jacket. I got it in October and since then have grown increasingly dissatisfied with it. The tailor specializes in drape cuts which is what I wanted but the final product does not look at all like any others I have seen. My main issues are:
1 - the pinching and borderline horizontal 'stripe' at the buttoning point. Too small? I gained no weight between fittings
2 - the strong creasing on the arms. It is Harris tweed and I expected little to no wrinkling due to the properties of the fabric. These wrinkles showed up the first time I wore the jacket and I have never been able to get them out.
3 - the bagginess in the upper back arms, over the triceps.
4 - the overall shape and profile. I am not overweight and lift and exercise regularly. The profile from the rear looks alright but the front is dumpy at best.

Please let me know if there are any other issues you spot and how many of them are due to the nature of drape cuts or possibly poor tailoring, also how much is fixable. I have taken to wearing it unbuttoned because it looks so off.

Thank you in advance for any advice you can give, this situation has been very disappointing.
View attachment 1540781View attachment 1540782View attachment 1540783View attachment 1540784View attachment 1540785
@GaiusM

This does have a boxy look from the front. The shape of the front edges contributes to the boxy effect. I wouldn’t want a tweed jacket with a chiseled hour glass waist though.
The pull on the button is more often a balance issue than tightness. The more the fronts open or fall away when unbuttoned the greater the pull at the button. The chest from the armhole upwards (not the drape below the armhole)is small and causing the bowing of the lapel.
Right side view looks like short front balance and the left side view shows the front hiking up and forward in a more dramatic way than the right side. May be the photo.
Don’t know what the bagginess over the triceps means. The folds of cloth? That is a pitch issue.
If the sleeves are too narrow it can cause excess wrinkles but these look fine so the wrinkles are in the nature of the cloth and not effected by the tailoring or the fit.
The back doesn’t have any definition, just a lot of drape.
Did you work with a store or a tailor that you can go back to or was this an online purchase?**
 
Last edited:

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,702
Reaction score
3,546
You have thoroughly researched the topic of how well-fitting pants should fit and therefore have high expectations. Now when you want to check if this type of trousers suits you, you have to find a tailor at a sufficiently high level - RTW will most definitely fail here (or maybe you're lucky and you will fit into the off-the-rack pattern of some brand).

If I may suggest a maker other than D&S, from personal experience I recommend Collaro. Not to be groundless, bellow is my first pair of trousers (done completely remotely) made by them, preceded by a test pair:

View attachment 1542555View attachment 1542554View attachment 1542556

There are still some issues to be fixed (like for example my lower left hip, it's a little exaggerated in these photos I believe) but the result is very good IMO (sorry for the mismatched t-shirt and shoes).
Your pictures will help promote this maker and get them a few new clients. When I see the difference in your hips I do a 50/50 adjustment. Raise the right side and lower the left equally rather than make the adjustment on one hip only. The right outseam has a slight pull and adding 3/8” to the right hip will fix it. Would not lower the left side more than it is now.
 

GaiusM

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2020
Messages
12
Reaction score
3
@GaiusM

This does have a boxy look from the front. The shape of the front edges contributes to the boxy effect. I wouldn’t want a tweed jacket with a chiseled hour glass waist though.
The pull on the button is more often a balance issue than tightness. The more the fronts open or fall away when unbuttoned the greater the pull at the button. The chest from the armhole upwards (not the drape below the armhole)is small and causing the bowing of the lapel.
Right side view looks like short front balance and the left side view shows the front hiking up and forward in a more dramatic way than the right side. May be the photo.
Don’t know what the bagginess over the triceps means. The folds of cloth? That is a pitch issue.
If the sleeves are too narrow it can cause excess wrinkles but these look fine so the wrinkles are in the nature of the cloth and not effected by the tailoring or the fit.
The back doesn’t have any definition, just a lot of drape.
Did you work with a store or a tailor that you can go back to or was this an online purchase?**
Thank you for the breakdown.
I did go with a tailor at a brick and mortar shop. Not sure what exactly can or should be altered though. What would you recommend I bring up to them?
 

buddyfuzz

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
194
Reaction score
104
I would appreciate any advice/help on how to refine this MTM pattern.

What I (probably incorrectly) think this needs:
1.) A bit more fabric over shoulder blades to stop the pulling at the top of the back (this is an option)
2.) Pants - Seat +3.2cm, Waist +1cm, Thigh +1.2cm, Knee +0.5cm, Extra 1cm in back of pants over the calf, Back Rise -1cm
3.) Sleeve Pitch, I think maybe right +0.2cm, Left +0.8cm, but I really don't know about this.
4.) Possible tighten the collar slightly - It's been graded to the shoulder measurements, which are wider than your average proportioned person. Is it possible that this is causing curve at the top of the inside of the lapel, and a tighter collar may pull that in a little? Maybe I would need to then add a bit of shoulder width to compensate?
5.) Chest? See below

MTM provider is saying not to add any more to the front chest here. It doesn't feel tight, but I think there's a slight concave shape to the inside of the lapel, which I was led to believe was a symptom of not enough front chest? The jacket already has a lapel dart - although a second could be added instead of adding to the chest measurement. The lapels lay flat against my chest. I'd love some input on this.


The bumps in the shoulder are my shoulder bones, and this is an unpadded jacket. This is a conscious choice to avoid any padding, even know I understand some may consider it wrong.

They're also saying that the left sleeve needs to be rotated back, but I was under the impression it would need to go forward? I could be wrong, or it's possible they mis-typed when emailing.

Is it possible that the seam across the left shoulder is finishing too far back, which is contributing to the sleeve issues?

Finally, what causes the pulling/lines on left side of the pants by the pleat? Not enough seat?

Any advice received thankfully. Obviously always good to hear from @Despos if possible.

One day I will be in Chicago and there will be a nice bottle of something with me!
 

Attachments

Last edited:

moimael

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2018
Messages
129
Reaction score
112
Hi!

I received this Ring Jacket suit a few weeks ago, still waiting for shops to reopen so I can get it tailored. I wanted to have your opinions on the fit.

The things I think I should have altered:

- Excess of fabric in the back near the armholes
- Slightly too much waist suppression (which might be because of lockdown weight I put on)
- Trousers too long of course
- Maybe something to do on the seat of the trousers. Might also just be that I didn't pull it up properly and it's too long so it doesn't drape correctly?
- Slightly short jacket but I can live with that
- A tiny bit tight at the chest (not that I feel it but it seems that the lapels bow slightly), same I can live with that since I think there is nothing that can be done here.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Shirtmaven

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
3,505
Reaction score
437
I would appreciate any advice/help on how to refine this MTM pattern.

What I (probably incorrectly) think this needs:
1.) A bit more fabric over shoulder blades to stop the pulling at the top of the back (this is an option)
2.) Pants - Seat +3.2cm, Waist +1cm, Thigh +1.2cm, Knee +0.5cm, Extra 1cm in back of pants over the calf, Back Rise -1cm
3.) Sleeve Pitch, I think maybe right +0.2cm, Left +0.8cm, but I really don't know about this.
4.) Possible tighten the collar slightly - It's been graded to the shoulder measurements, which are wider than your average proportioned person.
5.) Chest? See below

MTM provider is saying not to add any more to the front chest here. It doesn't feel tight, but I think there's a slight concave shape to the inside of the lapel, which I was led to believe was a symptom of not enough front chest? The jacket already has a lapel dart - although a second could be added instead of adding to the chest measurement. The lapels lay flat against my chest. I'd love some input on this.


The bumps in the shoulder are my shoulder bones, and this is an unpadded jacket. This is a conscious choice to avoid any padding, even know I understand some may consider it wrong.

They're also saying that the left sleeve needs to be rotated back, but I was under the impression it would need to go forward? I could be wrong, or it's possible they mis-typed when emailing.

Is it possible that the seam across the left shoulder is finishing too far back, which is contributing to the sleeve issues?

Finally, what causes the pulling/lines on left side of the pants by the pleat? Not enough seat?

Any advice received thankfully. Obviously always good to hear from @Despos if possible.

One day I will be in Chicago and there will be a nice bottle of something with me!
i am not going to comment on alterations.
Just that in some photos you have sway posture which cause the break in the sleeve.
in other photos you have normal posture,,,I will tell you that your shirt is too tight in the chest.
 

buddyfuzz

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
194
Reaction score
104
i am not going to comment on alterations.
Just that in some photos you have sway posture which cause the break in the sleeve.
in other photos you have normal posture,,,I will tell you that your shirt is too tight in the chest.
Thank you. That's confusing because as far as I was aware, I was standing naturally for all the photos. Oh dear!

You're right about the shirt. Wasn't always the case, but unfortunately shrunk.
 

Shirtmaven

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
3,505
Reaction score
437
Thank you. That's confusing because as far as I was aware, I was standing naturally for all the photos. Oh dear!

You're right about the shirt. Wasn't always the case, but unfortunately shrunk.
compare #2451 and #2484 sway posture throws everything off. and causes sleeves to break.
 

Alocin

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
954
Reaction score
4,478
Hi!

I received this Ring Jacket suit a few weeks ago, still waiting for shops to reopen so I can get it tailored. I wanted to have your opinions on the fit.

The things I think I should have altered:

- Excess of fabric in the back near the armholes
- Slightly too much waist suppression (which might be because of lockdown weight I put on)
- Trousers too long of course
- Slightly short but I can live with that
- A tiny bit tight at the chest (not that I feel it but it seems that the lapels bow slightly), same I can live with that since I think there is nothing that can be done here.
I also can’t really comment on alterations but do you know if this is a US model or a JP model?
 

moimael

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2018
Messages
129
Reaction score
112
I also can’t really comment on alterations but do you know if this is a US model or a JP model?
I bought it through Brogue shop California. The jacket is a TAJ-02F model, Japanese I think?
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,702
Reaction score
3,546
I would appreciate any advice/help on how to refine this MTM pattern.

What I (probably incorrectly) think this needs:
1.) A bit more fabric over shoulder blades to stop the pulling at the top of the back (this is an option)
2.) Pants - Seat +3.2cm, Waist +1cm, Thigh +1.2cm, Knee +0.5cm, Extra 1cm in back of pants over the calf, Back Rise -1cm
3.) Sleeve Pitch, I think maybe right +0.2cm, Left +0.8cm, but I really don't know about this.
4.) Possible tighten the collar slightly - It's been graded to the shoulder measurements, which are wider than your average proportioned person. Is it possible that this is causing curve at the top of the inside of the lapel, and a tighter collar may pull that in a little? Maybe I would need to then add a bit of shoulder width to compensate?
5.) Chest? See below

MTM provider is saying not to add any more to the front chest here. It doesn't feel tight, but I think there's a slight concave shape to the inside of the lapel, which I was led to believe was a symptom of not enough front chest? The jacket already has a lapel dart - although a second could be added instead of adding to the chest measurement. The lapels lay flat against my chest. I'd love some input on this.


The bumps in the shoulder are my shoulder bones, and this is an unpadded jacket. This is a conscious choice to avoid any padding, even know I understand some may consider it wrong.

They're also saying that the left sleeve needs to be rotated back, but I was under the impression it would need to go forward? I could be wrong, or it's possible they mis-typed when emailing.

Is it possible that the seam across the left shoulder is finishing too far back, which is contributing to the sleeve issues?

Finally, what causes the pulling/lines on left side of the pants by the pleat? Not enough seat?

Any advice received thankfully. Obviously always good to hear from @Despos if possible.

One day I will be in Chicago and there will be a nice bottle of something with me!
Hard to see the issues you mention from these pictures. When the chest is cut too narrow/small. The small chest is the problem and bowing is the symptom. If these lapels are bowing, which I can’t see, it can be caused by other issues. Probably not enough shape in the canvass.
Can’t see any detail on the trouser.
The sleeve is set too far forward and needs to be rotated back. Move your arm forward to see the wrinkles on back of the sleeve disappear. The fix is turning the sleeve back to match your arm position.
You would still have the bumps on the shoulder with shoulder pads in the jacket. People misunderstand the purpose/ effect of shoulder pads. The canvass needs more structure and you need more over shoulder length to compensate for the bone. More fullness over the back blades too. What fitters overlook is the prominent point of the bone is the height of your shoulder and not the tip of the shoulder.
 

Alocin

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
954
Reaction score
4,478
I bought it through Brogue shop California. The jacket is a TAJ-02F model, Japanese I think?
That model is somewhat of a hybrid I think. It used to be the 254/253 regarding suits/sport coats but I can’t entirely confirm if they just changed the name or changed anything about the model.

I think it’s still closer to the Japanese fit. I own multiple RJ pieces and in the TAJ-02 suit I bought I had to size up in order to get a proper fit on the jacket and the pants. But also, the Japanese models have slightly more forward shoulders, so anecdotally I think this could cause some issues around the area but hopefully the tailors here can give you more precise info.
 

buddyfuzz

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
194
Reaction score
104
Hard to see the issues you mention from these pictures. When the chest is cut too narrow/small. The small chest is the problem and bowing is the symptom. If these lapels are bowing, which I can’t see, it can be caused by other issues. Probably not enough shape in the canvass.
Can’t see any detail on the trouser.
The sleeves is set too far forward and needs to be rotated back. Move your arm forward to see the wrinkles on back of the sleeve disappear. The fix is turning the sleeve back to match your arm position
Thank you for the reply. Sorry, I explained badly, I did not mean the chest was bowing outwards, away from my chest at all, just that the inside of the lapel/chest was curving. Compare mine to this image on the right. The line from the collar to the buttoning point is much more straight, and I thought the curve in mine meant a too small chest? I could be completely wrong on this (and probably am). Possibly my collar needs to be tighter to bring the top of the lapel in?
1611689198808.png


Could I ask what you mean by 'over the shoulder length' regarding the bump on the shoulder?

I see what you mean about the wrinkles in the back, but I don't know what to do regarding the big fold on the left sleeve here. It's hard to see in the photo, but it sort of folds over itself, and I can't work out what causes it.
1611689328877.png


Here are artificially brightened trouser pictures:
1611689553967.png
 
Last edited:

moimael

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2018
Messages
129
Reaction score
112
That model is somewhat of a hybrid I think. It used to be the 254/253 regarding suits/sport coats but I can’t entirely confirm if they just changed the name or changed anything about the model.

I think it’s still closer to the Japanese fit. I own multiple RJ pieces and in the TAJ-02 suit I bought I had to size up in order to get a proper fit on the jacket and the pants. But also, the Japanese models have slightly more forward shoulders, so anecdotally I think this could cause some issues around the area but hopefully the tailors here can give you more precise info.
Yes, I think I read something along those lines as well. I hesitated to size up but I think the shoulders would have been a bit wide then. The forward shoulder thing is something I was looking for since I have a forward posture but it seems not as much as the Japanese (if the extra fabric near the armhole comes from that). Thanks!
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Favorite knitwear under jackets/sport coats

  • Crewneck sweater

  • Turtleneck sweater

  • Long-sleeve polo

  • Vest

  • I don't like knitwear worn with jackets/sport coats


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
454,854
Messages
9,852,851
Members
205,514
Latest member
localnod
Top