The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[nevaeh]

Shouldn’t be a problem. The cuff will require around 4” of material, leaving the tailor with around 5” from each leg to use

My tailor prefers to have around 3–4 inches of fabric for side tabs, and this seems to have a safety margin built in. After he puts in the side tabs, he usually returns some excess fabric.

By the way, if your tailor doesn’t have the metal tabs, I purchased some good quality 2 bar magi buckles from Bernstein & Banleys.

 

[Kevin24]

Hi all,

I bought a full cut LBM 1911 tuxedo late last year. The jacket fits me fine but the pants are way too tight and at best I can only barely manage to button them.

Other then me losing some weight (the most obvious answer) would it even be possible to let them out since they are VERY tight in the waist?

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Hi all,

I bought a full cut LBM 1911 tuxedo late last year. The jacket fits me fine but the pants are way too tight and at best I can only barely manage to button them.

Other then me losing some weight (the most obvious answer) would it even be possible to let them out since they are VERY tight in the waist?

Most RTW trousers have about 1-2" to let out in the waist. That doesn't sound like a lot but if you can just barely button them now you probably only need an extra inch. This is an easy alteration, much easier than losing weight.

 

[Torzano]

I'm wondering if I need to have this new RTW sport coat altered. It feels great so just curious and by no means expecting anything close to perfection, just whether it's worth considering alterations.


View attachment 1521247 View attachment 1521248 View attachment 1521249 View attachment 1521250

Very nice! Is that from natalino? I would just let out the waist. These Italian jackets have such suppressed waists as if we all have hour glass figures.

 

[clthzhrs]

Very nice! Is that from natalino? I would just let out the waist. These Italian jackets have such suppressed waists as if we all have hour glass figures.

Indeed it is and a really wonderful fabric too.Thanks for the feedback, I’m assuming you don’t think it looks big then like a previous comment?

 

[Torzano]

Indeed it is and a really wonderful fabric too.Thanks for the feedback, I’m assuming you don’t think it looks big then like a previous comment?

No I think it’s the right size. If you sized down than that waist would be even smaller. Length looks perfect. I really like the brown with the windowpane.

 

[clthzhrs]

No I think it’s the right size. If you sized down than that waist would be even smaller. Length looks perfect. I really like the brown with the windowpane.

Thanks again, yeah I think the size down was definitely a bit short and as you said too tight in the waist. This feels right!

 

[nevaeh]

@Despos and @sansimeon. Update on the sleeve length issue (where buttons were about 3 inches form the sleeve hem). I spoke with the company again, and explained to them why this is an issue. After looking at it, they agreed that this is too much of a gap. To remedy the situation, they are remaking the entire suit (since they didn't have the same fabric, they couldn't remake the jacket only).

There is a slight difference in the fabrics (the original was an S130, the new will be an S110) ... but that matters less to me than the overall color and proper fit. And they did a whole new set of measurements to get the fit right--and the new fabric looks fantastic.

It seems that, somehow, the sleeve length adjustment was lost in translation the first time around. The company was quite nice about the whole thing and I am a happy customer. Thank you, @Despos, for your expertise.

@Despos and @sansimeon, another update on the MTM suits with the sleeve length/sleeve sleeve button spacing issue. The company completely remade the suits. The sleeve length is much better and the overall fit seems fine, too. Thank you both for your advice to ask the company to remake the jackets. (Some photos attached; though they are not my finest work.)

There is a slight bit of excess fabric under the collar, but that I am at peace with. Usually, I get that "square back neck" on both jackets and shirts.

What are your thoughts overall?

 

[Despos]

Is this is your natural relaxed posture?
Fit is problematic. Hesitate to comment but it might help with future commissions.
Sleeves are still too short. Right sleeve more than left. With arms naturally extended, make a fist and point your thumb out like you are hitchhiking. The jacket should just touch the break point of wrist and full part of thumb/hand.
The chest looks small and has some bowing on the lapel.
Front balance looks short. Overall length looks short. Top Button looks too high like it’s at the bottom of your rib cage instead of on the waist. Sleeve pitch is off. Back doesn’t contour with your body and breaks, falls in at the waist and causes the wrinkles.
Gorge and breast pocket are too high.
Sorry, doesn’t look relaxed, natural or like it fits you well.

 

[nevaeh]

Is this is your natural relaxed posture?
Fit is problematic. Hesitate to comment but it might help with future commissions.
Sleeves are still too short. Right sleeve more than left. With arms naturally extended, make a fist and point your thumb out like you are hitchhiking. The jacket should just touch the break point of wrist and full part of thumb/hand.
The chest looks small and has some bowing on the lapel.
Front balance looks short. Overall length looks short. Top Button looks too high like it’s at the bottom of your rib cage instead of on the waist. Sleeve pitch is off. Back doesn’t contour with your body and breaks, falls in at the waist and causes the wrinkles.
Gorge and breast pocket are too high.
Sorry, doesn’t look relaxed, natural or like it fits you well.

I genuinely appreciate your feedback, always, as it helps me learn. Certainly, I can improve future commissions, as you say. My problem here is that, at this stage, I mostly rely on the "expertise" of the store staff. Feedback from you and others helps me develop my own "eye," so that I would at least know when something seems off. Because, certainly, some stores seemingly have their staff trained to fit folks in tighter suits--as seems the case here. But knowing how tailored clothes should fit is definitely helpful.

I believe this is my natural posture, because I don't believe I was standing forcefully straight when I took those photos. Usually, I find myself slouching when I am working through the day on my computer, but, when I stand, I make an effort to have my posture be more erect.

The rule of thumb is extremely helpful. The sleeves are about 0.5 to 0.75 inches too short based on that, still. Oh, boy. This is after several emails and calls convincing them that the sleeves on the previous jacket, which were about 1-1.5 inches sorter, were too short.

With both the chest and length I had to push back and ask for larger/longer size. They wanted to put me in one size even smaller. Even then ... this is too small in the chest? Since this was based on a size 34, perhaps I need to go to size 36 or larger.

Your other points are all extremely helpful for future purchases. However, I don't believe I will go back a third time and ask for a second remake. I will eat the cost and live with this. Are there any alterations that you would suggest to make this somewhat more palatable?

(As an aside, while I continue to save for a proper Despos suit, perhaps I can bribe you with your favorite libation or restaurant meal--and spend an hour or two with you at the store to learn about these things in person! Of course, after we can all actually meet people again.)

Anyways, as always, thank you.

 

[Jazzthief]

I have a more general question, but cannot provide photos at the moment. What is the general cause of small creases/wrinkles on the shoulders on the back of the jacket? It alludes that the jacket is too small somwhere, but where? The jacket sits well otherwise - although a slight collar cap emerges when the top button is done and I raise my arms.

I have attached a photo from the internet with added red lines to demonstrate the creases/wrinkles I referred to.

 

[Despos]

I genuinely appreciate your feedback, always, as it helps me learn. Certainly, I can improve future commissions, as you say. My problem here is that, at this stage, I mostly rely on the "expertise" of the store staff. Feedback from you and others helps me develop my own "eye," so that I would at least know when something seems off. Because, certainly, some stores seemingly have their staff trained to fit folks in tighter suits--as seems the case here. But knowing how tailored clothes should fit is definitely helpful.

I believe this is my natural posture, because I don't believe I was standing forcefully straight when I took those photos. Usually, I find myself slouching when I am working through the day on my computer, but, when I stand, I make an effort to have my posture be more erect.

The rule of thumb is extremely helpful. The sleeves are about 0.5 to 0.75 inches too short based on that, still. Oh, boy. This is after several emails and calls convincing them that the sleeves on the previous jacket, which were about 1-1.5 inches sorter, were too short.

With both the chest and length I had to push back and ask for larger/longer size. They wanted to put me in one size even smaller. Even then ... this is too small in the chest? Since this was based on a size 34, perhaps I need to go to size 36 or larger.

Your other points are all extremely helpful for future purchases. However, I don't believe I will go back a third time and ask for a second remake. I will eat the cost and live with this. Are there any alterations that you would suggest to make this somewhat more palatable?

(As an aside, while I continue to save for a proper Despos suit, perhaps I can bribe you with your favorite libation or restaurant meal--and spend an hour or two with you at the store to learn about these things in person! Of course, after we can all actually meet people again.)

Anyways, as always, thank you.

Would tell anyone considering MTM; know what your fitting issues are and your preferences. Better to work with a tailor who offers MTM than this current trend in MTM outfits who sell image /silhouette over proper, classic fit and don’t take into consideration what you prefer or would be most complimentary for you.
My guess was .75” on right sleeve and .5” on left sleeve. Look at the side profiles and notice how the sleeve hem angles from down at back, upwards to the front edge of sleeve. The angle is a bit off but the sleeve pitch is set forward. When you turn the sleeve to the proper position, the front will move downward towards your hand and the back will rotate upwards. This would help the sleeve hem run parallel to the hem of the shirt cuff.
Best not to work with someone who doesn’t ask or understand how you want the suit to fit and look. When their suggestions are contrary to your likes, time to walk away.
When MTM results require a remake and the remake requires a remake, lesson learned.

 

[Despos]

I have a more general question, but cannot provide photos at the moment. What is the general cause of small creases/wrinkles on the shoulders on the back of the jacket? It alludes that the jacket is too small somwhere, but where? The jacket sits well otherwise - although a slight collar cap emerges when the top button is done and I raise my arms.

I have attached a photo from the internet with added red lines to demonstrate the creases/wrinkles I referred to.

View attachment 1524038

Two main causes of the under collar roll.
In this picture it is from tension across the shoulder blades.
Look at the back and divide the area from sleeve to sleeve in thirds. You see two vertical , darker lines. These are impressions from the shoulder blade. The center third is a “hollow” area between the blades. The incorrect fix is to let out the center back making it looser. It doesn’t work because the line of the center back needs to be straight over the hollow area. Letting it out makes it curved and it just becomes sloppy. There was an example of this with a jacket AlanB had with this issue.
If the tailor says to square the shoulder and lower the collar when the cause is tension over the blades, the fix makes things worse. Wrong approach to correct the roll
The correct way is to open the shoulders and work in extra fullness to cover the blades and decrease the tension. A few more steps than that but want to keep things simple.

The more common cause is shoulder slope.
Your shoulders have a fixed line of slope from neck to end of your shoulder. The jacket shoulder should run parallel to your physical shoulder line. When the jacket slope is more than the line of your physical shoulder, the neck point at the collar lifts away. If from neck to shoulder point the grade of slope is 1” but the jacket slope is 1.5”, that .5” difference is the roll of cloth you see. The fix is to open the shoulder and square the back shoulder .5”.
There are limits to how much can be altered in both scenarios.

 

[nevaeh]

Would tell anyone considering MTM; know what your fitting issues are and your preferences. Better to work with a tailor who offers MTM than this current trend in MTM outfits who sell image /silhouette over proper, classic fit and don’t take into consideration what you prefer or would be most complimentary for you.
My guess was .75” on right sleeve and .5” on left sleeve. Look at the side profiles and notice how the sleeve hem angles from down at back, upwards to the front edge of sleeve. The angle is a bit off but the sleeve pitch is set forward. When you turn the sleeve to the proper position, the front will move downward towards your hand and the back will rotate upwards. This would help the sleeve hem run parallel to the hem of the shirt cuff.
Best not to work with someone who doesn’t ask or understand how you want the suit to fit and look. When their suggestions are contrary to your likes, time to walk away.
When MTM results require a remake and the remake requires a remake, lesson learned.

Lesson definitely learned. I'm not even going to bother requesting a second remake. Keep these as-is. As you suggest, I'd rather save up (both money and time) and go to a proper tailor next year or the year after. Because a remake of a remake: fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice ... But fool me three times?!

 

[Jazzthief]

Two main causes of the under collar roll.
In this picture it is from tension across the shoulder blades.
Look at the back and divide the area from sleeve to sleeve in thirds. You see two vertical , darker lines. These are impressions from the shoulder blade. The center third is a “hollow” area between the blades. The incorrect fix is to let out the center back making it looser. It doesn’t work because the line of the center back needs to be straight over the hollow area. Letting it out makes it curved and it just becomes sloppy. There was an example of this with a jacket AlanB had with this issue.
If the tailor says to square the shoulder and lower the collar when the cause is tension over the blades, the fix makes things worse. Wrong approach to correct the roll
The correct way is to open the shoulders and work in extra fullness to cover the blades and decrease the tension. A few more steps than that but want to keep things simple.

The more common cause is shoulder slope.
Your shoulders have a fixed line of slope from neck to end of your shoulder. The jacket shoulder should run parallel to your physical shoulder line. When the jacket slope is more than the line of your physical shoulder, the neck point at the collar lifts away. If from neck to shoulder point the grade of slope is 1” but the jacket slope is 1.5”, that .5” difference is the roll of cloth you see. The fix is to open the shoulder and square the back shoulder .5”.
There are limits to how much can be altered in both scenarios.

What a great answer! I deeply appreciate it!