The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[lsdandmusic]

looks pretty good from the front. I would try them on with dress shoes, so we can see how the pants fit with shoes. all suits need some cleaning up in the back - both pants and jacket.

Very pleased to hear, what exactly in the back? I want to go to the tailor tomorrow but want to know what to ask for in particular.

 

[dauster]

Very pleased to hear, what exactly in the back? I want to go to the tailor tomorrow but want to know what to ask for in particular.

Maybe @Despos can answer it - I don't really have the technical knowledge to answer it properly but Ill give it a try:

1st suit pants look tight in the back, which causes the wrinkling
2nd suit looks tight in the back of pants and jacket which causes wrinkling/ backside of sleeves looks messy
3rd suit its mainly the backside of sleeves and pants that look messy

 

[ChasingStyle]

In my modest opinion, the jackets are short, both for sleeves as well as overall length.
I'd shoot to show not more than 1/2 an inch of the shirt so that would make the sleeve short by an 3/4 to an inch or so
As for the length of the jackets, traditionally you want the hem of your jacket to hit around the thumb knuckle.
Then again, it can also be a personal preference decision. There's clearly a trend these days to make jackets smaller and smaller for some odd reason.

 

[Benjiy]

Hello All,

I just received a new mto jacket and there is a bump/crease at where the collar and shoulder meet, what could be the possible cause of this? Its not a big issue but still bothers me a bit
Thx

 

[Despos]

Hello All,

I just received a new mto jacket and there is a bump/crease at where the collar and shoulder meet, what could be the possible cause of this? Its not a big issue but still bothers me a bit
ThxView attachment 1510935View attachment 1510936

can't be certain as there are multiple possible causes. Most likely and hardest to fix is the shoulder is twisting. The fix is to open the shoulder and shift the front shoulder away from the neck and the back shoulder towards the neck. Square up the front shoulder while the shoulder is open and baste a bit extra fullness on the back part. This relieves the tension that causes the "twisting"
Do you feel a downward pressure at the end of the shoulder where the shoulder/sleeve meet?
2nd cause could be the collar is short and tight and pressing into the shoulder causing the cloth to flare up.
3rd is the cloth has stretched and needs to be smoothed into the neck. Open the collar and work the excess cloth towards the break line. Tack under the collar.
Have fixed this issue using any one of these or a combination of these.
Is this on both sides or just the left side?

 

[Benjiy]

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation Despos!
I don't feel any pressure at the end of the shoulder, and this is 100% linen so i doubt the fabric can stretch very much
There is in fact a little bit of the same crease on the right side at the same spot too, but very little to be noticeable
My right shoulder is lower than my left

Does this mean the cause is likely #2?
and is it worth having it fixed or could it throw off the balance of other parts of the jacket?
Thanks!

 

[Despos]

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation Despos!
I don't feel any pressure at the end of the shoulder, and this is 100% linen so i doubt the fabric can stretch very much
There is in fact a little bit of the same crease on the right side at the same spot too, but very little to be noticeable
My right shoulder is lower than my left

Does this mean the cause is likely #2?
and is it worth having it fixed or could it throw off the balance of other parts of the jacket?
Thanks!

Would be more certain if I was looking at the jacket and not a picture online. From this view it looks more like idea #1. Your twisting a bit to take the picture and not standing with arms down and relaxed so it’s hard to say.
Any cloth will stretch on the bias and the shoulder is cut at an angle across the grain. There is some stretching done on the shoulder during the making. If the cloth is longer than the canvass in this area it can cause this.
Decide if you want this fixed and whoever does the work may see something I can’t see. They will determine what to do. If i saw this on a jacket we made, I wouldn’t let it go out like this.
Curious, do you know where this was made?

 

[Benjiy]

I've taken it to a local alteration tailor in hong kong, will report back on the result
It's a mto from a korean tailor that i was eager to try. It was supposed to be mtm but since i can't travel to korea, i just told them to follow the measurements of a ring jacket, that they have access to.
So I don't really expect the result to be perfect, but i have never seen this kind of bump at the collar, even on cheaper rtw jackets...

 

[Despos]

This jacket looks like it is well made.
When you get the jacket back would like to see a front and back view. One front view with the jacket buttoned and one not buttoned. If you don't mind the effort of taking pics.

If it is #3 you will have a simple solution.

#2 is a bit complex and I don't know how they will correct it. The issue may be caused by how high the gorge and peak are. The collar doesn't have enough fullness or length around the neck to sit properly.

Several things make me think it's #1
How high the collar sits on your neck at the side says the jacket shoulder is too crooked. The jacket is pushing against your neck and contributing to the roll. Combine this with the high gorge and this would be a persistent problem.
The shoulder seam looks too far back on your shoulder creating tension.
There is a slight twist in the middle of the shoulder. See my first post, cause/fix #1
The jacket shoulder slope is greater than your shoulder. That's why the roll is more pronounce on your left side, your higher shoulder, and less on your low right shoulder.
To my eye the shoulder is tight at the shoulder point and the shoulder isn't resting evenly across your shoulder. Can't confirm due to your posture in the pictures.
Could be any one of the three or a combination of all three or something else I can't see.
Playing suit detective online!

 

[themasao]

Question about tailoring trousers. I have large legs and a fairly narrow waist (seat 40", thigh 25", waist 32"). I normally wear a size 36 jacket. Unfortunately size 30 trousers rarely have enough material to be let out to fit.

However, I purchased a suit a year ago in a 36" where the trousers were let out and fit me quite well and I only recently took a look to see what was done. I attach two photos of the groin. It appears that a triangle of a material was added about 3" in width at the groin seam. I'm guessing this material did not come from the seat or groin?

Is it possible that the material was taken from the hem? There would have been several inches excess as my inseam is relatively short. And would this then be a possible solution for my large seat/thigh issue on any size 30 which has unhemmed pants with enough material to spare?

A related question is what degree of difficulty this type of surgery represents and whether I could ask my local alterations place to do something like this?

Thanks!

 

[Despos]

Question about tailoring trousers. I have large legs and a fairly narrow waist (seat 40", thigh 25", waist 32"). I normally wear a size 36 jacket. Unfortunately size 30 trousers rarely have enough material to be let out to fit.

However, I purchased a suit a year ago in a 36" where the trousers were let out and fit me quite well and I only recently took a look to see what was done. I attach two photos of the groin. It appears that a triangle of a material was added about 3" in width at the groin seam. I'm guessing this material did not come from the seat or groin?

Is it possible that the material was taken from the hem? There would have been several inches excess as my inseam is relatively short. And would this then be a possible solution for my large seat/thigh issue on any size 30 which has unhemmed pants with enough material to spare?

A related question is what degree of difficulty this type of surgery represents and whether I could ask my local alterations place to do something like this?

Thanks!

View attachment 1511353View attachment 1511354

Yes, it was taken from the hem. You can see a change in the direction of the striped grain in the cloth.
This is called adding a crotch piece. It’s not such an obscure alteration, most tailors have done this. After you do another one, get some measurements to know your inseam, how much cloth is needed for the hem and then you can do the math if the trouser you purchase will have enough cloth available fo do this.

 

[themasao]

Yes, it was taken from the hem. You can see a change in the direction of the striped grain in the cloth.
This is called adding a crotch piece. It’s not such an obscure alteration, most tailors have done this. After you do another one, get some measurements to know your inseam, how much cloth is needed for the hem and then you can do the math if the trouser you purchase will have enough cloth available fo do this.

Excellent. Thanks very much.

Believe my inseam is 30". So I guess if the crotch piece needs to be 3" and a couple inches should be left to hem, I need at least 35-36" unhemmed to be worth buying.

 

[Despos]

30” isn’t such a short inseam. Did you get that measurement from buying jeans? Inseams of jeans and tailored trousers aren’t the same. The rise effects the length. Jeans with a shorter rise have a longer inseam. Tailored trousers with a higher rise will have a shorter inseam. When you get measurements for the trousers you buy, get both the inseam and outseam measurements

 

[themasao]

30” isn’t such a short inseam. Did you get that measurement from buying jeans? Inseams of jeans and tailored trousers aren’t the same. The rise effects the length. Jeans with a shorter rise have a longer inseam. Tailored trousers with a higher rise will have a shorter inseam. When you get measurements for the trousers you buy, get both the inseam and outseam measurements

I got it from measuring the trousers previously shown which fit well. Not sure I did it quite right the first time though. When laid flat I get a measurement of about 28.5". This is with a slight break too so I suspect I could probably get away with 28".

 

[acapaca]

Does the crotch piece add room to both the back rise and the thigh?